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The history and antiquities of Roxburghshire and adjacent districts, from the most, remote period to the

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1 KING PRESS NO. 303

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THE

HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES

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ROXBURGHSHIRE

AND

ADJACENT DISTRICTS,

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BY ALEXANDER JEFEEEY,

AUTHOR OF THE " GUIDE TO THE ANTIQUITIES OF THE BORDER," &C.

VOL. III.

EDINBURGH: THOMAS C. JACK,

92, PEINCES STKEET.

ANDREW JACK, PRINTER CLYDE KTREET EDINBURGH.

THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF QUBPW

PREFACE.

When the author closed the second volume, he hoped that the work would be concluded in this one; but notwithstanding all his efforts to do so, he has only been able to complete the district of Kelso a district so rich and full of interest, that it was with great difficulty the important materials with which it abounds were condensed within the narrow compass of the present volume. He there- fore trusts that, under the circumstances, the exten- sion of the work to another volume, with the view of including a great mass of valuable matter with- out which the work would be imperfect will meet with the approval of subscribers and the public.

To the Rev. James Jarvie, Kelso, the author is indebted for valuable information in regard to the modern history of Kelso.

The concluding volume will be published in the course of the next year.

A. J.

Jedburgh, September, 1859.

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2013

http://archive.org/details/historyantiquiti03jeff

CONTENTS OF VOL. III.

I. INTBODUCTION.

PAGE

1. Old names of the country lying along the Forth,

and from Tweed to Avon ... ... ... 1

2. Between 635 and 1020, churches in Teviotdale and

Lothian belonged to Lindisfarne ... ... 2

3. After 1020, the Bishop of St. Andrews assumed

jurisdiction ... ... ... ... 3

4. Boundary of the episcopates of Glasgow and St

Andrews ... ... ... ... 3

5. The people inhabiting north side of Tweed ... 4

6. Names of places on north and south of river ... 5

7. Druidical remains on north of Tweed ... ... 5

II. KELSO.

1. Etymology of its name ... ... ... 6

2. Situation of the town and scenery around it ... 8

3. The town and streets ... ... ... 10

4. The Town-hall and Market-place ... ... 11

5. Bridge-street ... ... ... ... 13

6. Havannah, or Ednam House ... ... ... 16

7. Abbey-close, Butts, and Kirkstyle ... ... 17

8. Mill of Kelso ... ... ... ... 19

9. Boxburgh-street, Cunzie-nook, Horse-shoe, Chalk-

heugh, and Windy Goul ... ... ... 21

10. Approaches to the town, roads, bridges, and ferries 23

11. Town formed part of regality of Abbey ... 29

12. Site of burgh, burgh records and statutes, whipmen 30

13. Markets and trade of the town ... ... 35

14. Literature, Chalkheugh library, newspapers and

reading-rooms ... ... ... ... 37

15. The schools of the town ... ... ... 39

VI CONTENTS.

PAGE

1 6. The manor of Kelso and Abbey ... ... 40

First notice of the manor the boundaries thereof governed by a provost Wester Kelso Fair- cross first settlement of monks at Selkirk, at Kelso benefits conferred on a district by foun- dation of abbey property of the monks in flocks and herds, in lands and fisheries right of the monks to a tenth of all the bucks and does taken by king's huntsmen— skins of animals tradition of Northumberland as to monks visiting Delavel's kitchen monks the early bankers they enjoyed wardship of heirs grants made to the abbey for interment in the cemetery the monks exporters the property of the monks in lands and churches in the counties of Selkirk, Berwick, Peebles, Lanark, Dumfries, Ayr, and Edinburgh colonies of monks sent from Kelso revenues of house.

17. Confirmation Charter of Malcolm IV. ... ... 355

18. Annals of the Abbey and Town ... ... 67

Of the Abbey. Abbots Herbert, Ernold, John, Osbert interdict by Pope Alexander III., its form Geoffrey, Eichard cle Cave, Henry, Eichard Maunsel, Hugh de Maunsel, Eobert de Smal- liame, Patrick, Henry de Lambeden, Eichard, Walron, Thomas de Durham, William de Alyn- crom, William de Dalgernock, William, Patrick, William, Allan, Andrew Stewart, Thomas Ker, James Stewart, commendator, Duke of Guise, commendator, Sir John Maitland, commendator, Both well. Of the Town.- Two of Shrewsbury's captains burn Kelso in 1522 next year town and monastery burnt by Dacre Duke of Nor- folk burnt town and abbey Bowes and Laiton's visit to it, 1544— next year the Earl of Hertford destroyed town and abbey garrison of Wark ravaged the town Queen Mary at Kelso, where she slept two days bond signed at Kelso to put down Border thieves parties to it Earls of Angus and Marr, the Master of Glammis at Kelso— joined by Both well, Home, Cessford, and Coldingknowes, and barons of Teviotdale town of Kelso fined 2000 merks— town destroyed by an accidental fire in 1645 Montrose at Kelso same year in 1715 Scottish rebels at Kelso persons of the surname of Kelso.

CONTENTS. VII

III. FLEUES.

PAGE

1. The palace of the Duke of Roxburghe, its situation,

name, and scenery around it ... ... 87

2. Fair-cross, origin of the name ... ... 88

3. Woods around Fleurs ... ... ... 89

4. The family of Ker ... ... ... ... 90

5. Bond between the Scotts and Kers ... ... 93

6. Sir Robert Ker, first Earl of Roxburghe ... 98

7. Competition between Brigadier-General Walter Ker

of Littledean and Sir James Norcliffe Innes for the honours and estates of Roxburgh ... 104

8. The House of Innes ... ... ... 105

IV. EDNAM.

1. Etymology of the name ... ... ... 107

, 2. Charter by Thorlongus of church of Ednam to the

monks of Durham ... ... ... 108

3. Description of Ednam ... ... ... 109

4. Property of the monks of Coldingham, Kelso, and

Dryburgh, in Ednam ... ... ...110

5. Hospital of Ednam ... ... ...Ill

6. The family of Edmonstone, origin and end of the

race ... ... ... ... ... 112

7. Wych elm in brewery garden ... ... 113

8. Ednani the birth-place of Captain Cook, notices of

family ... ... ... ... ... 114

9. James Thomson, the poet, was he born in Ednam ? 115 10. William Dawson, the agriculturist ... ... 115

V. HENDERSIDE.

1. Situation ... ... ... ... ... 116

2. Greater part of estate included in the old barony of

Ednam ... ... ... ... ... 116

3. Mansion of Henderside Park ... ... ...116

4. The estate was acquired by one Ormston, and was

carried by marriage to John Waldie ... ... 117

5. Lineage of the family ... ... ... 118

VI. NEWTON AND NENTHORN.

1. These two manors the property of the Morvilles during 12th century, at whose death in 1196 the manors passed to his only sister, Helena, wife of the lord of Galloway ... ... ... 118

Vlll CONTENTS.

PAGE

2. When Sir James Douglas became proprietor of these

manors ... ... ... ... ... 119

3. Grants made to the church ... ... ... 120

4. Newton-Don House; its site the woods around

house beautiful weeping birches near garden woolly-leafed poplar nurses an ivy yew-trees wych elms remarkable thorn-trees for size and beauty the river Eden trap dyke across river melancholy incident ... ... ...121

VII. STITCHEL.

1. Etymology of the name ... ... ... 123

2. Situation and view from the hill ... ... 124

3. Barony of Stitchell part of barony of Gordon ... 124

4. Origin of the family of Gordon and its descendants 125

5. Nicolas de Sticcenil ... ... ... 125

6. The church of Stitchel ... ... ...126

7. Persons who bore the surname of Stitchel ... 127

8. George Kedpath minister of Stitchel ... ... 127

VIII. HOME.

1. Etymology of name and situation ... ... 128

2. The manor of Home formed a part of the territory

of the Earl of Dunbar ... ... ... 128

3. The manor of Home was given by Patrick, Earl of

Dunbar, as a marriage gift to his daughter Ada, on her marriage with her cousin, William of Greenlaw ... ... ... ... 129

4. Assumed name of the manor as a surname after

marriage ... ... ... ... 129

5. Dispute between Home and monastery settled ... 130

6. Castle of Home notices thereof ... ... 131

7. Badge of the Homes ... ... ... 133

IX. SMALHAM.

1. Etymology of name ... ... ... 133

2. The manor of Smalham ... ... ... 133

3. The family of Olifard the first owners origin of the

name of Oliver he was Justiciary of Lothian grants to Dryburgh Abbey and the house of Soltre 134

4. Walter of Moray succeeded Oliver in the barony ... 135

5. William Earl of Douglas acquired the barony in

1451 ... ... ... ... ... 360

CONTENTS. IX

6. Hospital of Smalhani ... ... ... 136

7. Edward I. was at Smalham ... ... ... 136

8. Persons who bore the surname of Smalham ... 137

9. The mother of Captain Cook resided in Smalham 137 10. Smalham Crags ... ... ... ... 138

X. WRANGHAME.

1. Situation of this place ... ... ... 139

2. Residence of the nurse of St. Cuthbert ... ... 139

3. Legend of St. Cuthbert ... ... ...139

XL MAKERSTON.

1. Situation and extent of the barony ... ... 140

2. The mansion of Makerston, and scenery, trees, &c,

in park ... ... ... ... ... 141

3. Etymology of its name ... ... ... 141

4. Walter Corbet proprietor about the middle of 12th

century ... ... ... ... ... 142

5. The Macdougals next proprietors of barony, 1370 144

6. Origin and history of the family Appendix . . . 360

7. Notices of the family ... ... ... 145

8. Property of Kelso monks in barony ... ... 150

9. Camp on left bank of the Tweed above Mackerston 150

10. Charterhouse ... ... ... ... 150

XII. MANOR OF ROXBURGH.

1. Extent of manor and possessions thereof in early

times ... ... ... ... ... 151

2. Friars, the seat of the baronial court ... ... 152

3. Remarkable trysting-tree at Friars ... ... 153

4. Is any part of the peninsula in Kelso parish? .. 154

5. Inquiry as to the site of the old church of Rox-

burgh ... ... ... ... ... 157

6. Church and graveyard old tombstones grave of

Edie Ochiltree ... ... ... ... 158

7. Village of Roxburgh ; Wallace's Tower ... ... 159

XIII. SUNLAWS.

1. Situation ... ... ... ... ... 160

2. The estate formerly belonged to the family of Ker

ofGreenhead ... ... ... ... 161

3. It now belongs to William Scott Ker of Chatto ... 161

4. Lineage of the family ... ... ... 161

5. Prince Charles slept a night at the tower of Sunlaws 162

x CONTENTS.

XIV. RINGLEY HALL.

PAGE

1. Etymology of the name its situation description

of fort ... ... ... ... ... 162

2. Traditions regarding it and Rutherford ... ... 164

3. Tumulus in front of Mackerston House, its appear-

ance and extent ... ... ... ... 165

4. Trows etymology of name description of the Tors 167

5. Legend of the Church of Rome as to St. Cuthbert's

corpse floating down the river in a stone boat ... 168

6. Stockstrother ... ... ... ... 362

XV. FAIRNINGTON.

1. First appearance of barony in record during 12th

century ... ... ... ... ... 170

2. Notices of the early proprietors Burnards ... 171

3. The Rutherfurds possessed it about the beginning

of the 17th century ... ... ... 172

4. Tradition of the Bloody Well ... ... ... 173

5. Baron Rutherfurd, notices of ... ... ... 174

6. Notice of Major Rutherfurd Burns visited him in

1787 ... ... ... ... ... 176

7. Downlaw ruins of an observatory on its summit

Stanan Stane, near Watling-street, on farm of Heriotsfield Harlaw traces of an old ditch re- ferred to in charter of the 13th century ... 176

8. Hospital of Fairnington; its site belonged to

bishop of Glasgow in 1186— grants to chapel, &c. 177

XVI. BARONY OF MAXWELL.

1. First appears in record during the days of David I.,

by whom the territory was granted to his follower Maccus, who conferred on it his name ... 1 78

2. Situation and extent of the barony ... ... 179

3. Notices of the family of Maxwell ... ... 180

4. Bridgend purchased by James Douglas from Ker of

Greenhead the name changed to Springwood Park notices of the family of Douglas lineage of the family ... ... ... ... 183

5. Situation of the old mansion of Bridgend ... 185

6. Description of the mansion of Springwood Park, and

scenery around the woods young trysting-tree remarkable poplar at Maxwellheugh, 92 feet high and 32 feet 6 inches in girth ... ... 186

7. Maisondieu, or hospital ... ... ... 187

CONTENTS. XI

8. Town of Maxwellheugh tumulus within the

grounds of Pinnaclehill view of, from the ridge

to the west of town ... ... ... 188

9. Softlaw notices of its early proprietors ... 189

10. Church of Maccuswel existed before 1159 it

was dedicated to St. Michael the graveyard ... 190

11. St. Thomas' Chapel, where situated? ... ... 191

XVII. SPROUSTON.

1. Etymology of name it is first seen in charter of

David the early proprietors granted by William the Lion to Sir Eustace de Vesci, who married his daughter ... ... ... ... ... 193

2. Eobert Bruce conferred the barony on his son

Robert David II. gave it to Thomas Murray William Earl of Douglas obtained it in 1451 it was afterwards granted to Sir Robert Ker of Cessford ... ... ... ... ... 193

3. Property of monks of Kelso in Sprouston, and by

whom granted ... ... ... ... 197

4. Village of Sprouston .. . ... ... ... 198

5. King and Queen of England at Sprouston for

several days in 1256 ... ... ... 199

6. Lands of Easter Softlaw ... ... ... 1 99

XVIII. REDDEN.

1. Situation of the territory ... ... ... 199

2. Was the property of the monks of Kelso notices

of the town and grange of Redden David II. erected it into a royalty in favour of monks . . . 200

3. Reddenburn ... ... ... ... 201

XIX. HAUDEN.

1. Manor granted by William the Lion to Bernard, an

Anglo-Norman ... ... ... ... 201

2. Notices of the family assumed Hauden as a sur-

name ... ... ... ... ... 202

3. Estate now property of Sir William Elliot of Stobs 202

4. Property of monks in Hawden ... ... 203

5. Haddenstank ... ... ... ... 204

XX. LEMPETLAW.

1. Barony granted by David I. to Richard Germyn ... 204

2. Sir Adam Quinton got Wellflat as a marriage portion

with Floria, daughter of Germyn ... ... 205

Xll CONTENTS.

PAGE

3. Jaines III. conferred the barony on Walter Scott of

Kirkurd ... ... ... ... ... 205

4. Geoffrey of Lempetlaw was chamberlain to William

the Lion ... ... ... ... ... 205

5. The barony was originally a separate parish grave-

yard still used the church, which was the pro- perty of the house of Soltre, is not in existence . . . 205

XXI. LINTON.

1. Etymology of name Linton mistaken by previous

writers for Linton Roderick in Peebleshire . . . 206

2. The barony was the property of William Sumerville

in 1160 origin of the family of Sumerville Linton first estate in Scotland notices of the family ... ... ... ... ... 207

3. Legend of Linton ... ... ... ... 209

4. Monument over the church-door remarks thereon 215

5. The skull of a beaver and the remains of an ox, bos

primogenius, found in Linton loch ... ... 217

6. Barony now possessed by Robert Elliot of Harwood

andClifton^ ... ... ... ... 223

7. Graden, Fauside, and Greenlees ... ... 224

8. Blakelaw Thomas Pringle, the author of "The

Excursion," born here— beautiful view of vale of Tweed and Merse from Blakelaw ridge . . . 225

9. Old town of Linton ... ... ... ... 226

10. Church of Linton— tumulus of sand on which it is

built legend thereof ... ... ... 227

11. Font of the church used by a blacksmith to hold

small coals ... ... ... ... 228

XXII. YETHAM.

1. Etymology of name ... ... ... ... 229

2. Early history of the territory property of the

monks of Kelso in it Colpinhopes ... ... 230

3. Chapel of St. Ethelrida, where situated tradition

regarding it ... ... ... ... 232

4. In 1375, Yetham the property of the family of

Macdougal of Makerston ... ... ... 233

5. James IV. granted to Sir Robert Ker the lordship

of Yetham ... ... ... ... 234

6. William Bennet was owner in 1647 ... ... 234

7. Halterburnhead origin of name, &c. ... ... 235

8. The church and graveyard of Yetham ... ... 235

CONTENTS. Xlll

9. The town of Yetham notices thereof

10. Shrovetide at Yetham football, &c.

11. Christmas festivities

12. Account of the gipsy tribes

13. Barony of Town Yetham

14. Town Yetholm

15. Cherrytrees and Thirlestane

16. King Edward at Yetholm for two days

17. Persons who bore the surname of Yetholm

PAGE

237

239 241 241

258 261 262 264 265

XXIII. MOW.

1. Etymology of name boundaries and extent of

territory ... ... ... ... ... 265

2. Territory originally formed part of Northumbria ... 267

3. First owner named Liulf Uctred, his son, suc-

ceeded, and then the lands passed to Eschena de Londiniis, called Lady Molle she married Walter the first Steward of Scotland origin of the family persons who followed Walter to Scotland charter of Malcolm in favour of Walter . . . 269

4. Anselm of Whitton possessed part of Molle . . . 273

5. Lands in territory belonging to monks of Kelso

monks had a grant of the forest in Molle . . . 273

6. Property of the house of Melrose in territory . . . 278

7. The monks of Paisley ... ... ...279

8. The canons of Jedburgh ... ... ...280

9. Lands of Robert de Croc in territory surname of

Lindsay ... ... ... ... ... 280

10. Cocklaw powerful castle on sources of Beaumont

besieged by the English in 1401 it belonged to the family of Gledstones ... ... ... 282

11. Town of Molle and church of Molle ... ... 285

12. Woods of Molle ... ... ... ...289

XXIV. MOREBOTTLE.

1. Etymology situation and extent of territory its

early history ... ... ... ... 290

2. The family of Corbet appears to have possessed the

lands in 12th century ... ... ... 291

3. Town of Morebottle church of Morebottle pro-

phecy in regard to it dedicated to St. Lawrence

disputes with the monks of Melrose . . . 293

4. Dissenting meeting-house— Mrs. Morrison intro-

duced spinning-wheel into Morebottle .... 295

XIV CONTENTS.

PAGR

5. Whitton etymology, situation, extent, and boun-

daries— was an ancient possession of the family ofKiddel ... ... ... 297

6. Fort of Whitton ... ... ... ...298

7. Primside granted by Earl Henry, son of David I.,

to Eidel believed to have been the earliest pos- session of the family in Scotland ... ... 299

8. Crookedshaws its situation remarkable bar of

sand at Loch ... ... ... ... 300

1). Clifton etymology its early history it belonged to St. Cuthbert during the seventh century no- tices thereof ... ... ... ... 302

10. Grubet etymology doubtful in 12th century pro-

perty of Uctred, who took the surname for the territory De Vescis were over-lords of this terri- tory in the 13th century ... ... ... 303

11. Wideopen its situation property of the maternal

uncle of the poet Thomson ... ... ... 305

12. Gateshaw situation and extent belonged origi-

nally to the monks fermed by Kers— the family

of Ker of Gateshaw ... ... ... 306

1 3. Corbet House tower of Gateshaw ... ... 307

14. Otterburn, Tofts, Cowbog, Heavyside, Lochside,

and Foumerdean ... ... ... 308

XXV. HOWNAM.

1. Etymology property of Orm during the beginning

of the 12th century origin of name Rasawe the property of the monks of Melrose ... ... 310

2. Church of Hunum disputes between bishop of

Glasgow and monks of Melrose as to titles ... 313

3. Town of Hownam and Hownan Kirk, Capehope, &c. 314

4. Rings legend thereof ... ... ... 315

5. Chatthou etymology situation notices thereof 316

6. Philogar, Beirhope, Burvanes, Buchtrig, and Over

Whitton ... ... ... ... 317

XXVI. ECKFORD.

1. Etymology situation and extent of old territory of

Eckford ... ... ... ... 320

2. A family of Geoffrey one of the earliest proprietors 321

3. Mowbray acquired it during the reign of William

the Lion lost Cessford in 1316, and Eckford in 1320 322

CONTENTS. XV

4. On forfeiture of Mowbray, territory granted by

Robert I. to Walter, steward of Scotland . . . 322

5. Moss Tower ... ... ... ... 323

6. Town of Eckford church thereof— jugs still to be

seen at the door of church notices of church . . . 324

7. Moss Tower farm Church's oats remarks thereon 324

8. Graemslaw etymology situation and extent

hospital on banks of Cayle ... ... ... 325

9. Haughead situation— property of Hall, called

Hobbie Hall, in 17th century his son, Henry Hall, commanded at Drumclog and Bothwell Bridge his banner he was taken in company with Cargill died of his wounds tried after death remarks on this form of trial, and " Jed- dart Justice" ... ... ... ... 327

10. Richard Cameron licensed here by Welsh notices

as to Cameron ... ... ... ... 330

11. Priest's Crown etymology situation remains

found there in 1857 ... ... ...331

12. Cesspord barony, a part of the old territory of

Eckford etymology of name situation and ex- tent— the early proprietors of the manor Castle of Cessford : description thereof besieged by Surrey in 1523 Hall of Haughead imprisoned in it a large ash-tree which grew there at the end of last century ... ... ... ... 333

13. Marlefield lies between the modern baronies of

Eckford and Cessford property of William Ben- net in the middle of the 17th century ... ... 337

14. Is the scene of the " Gentle Shepherd " laid here 1 ... 338

XXVII. CAVERTON.

1. Etymology thought to be the Keveronum in the

Inquisitio Davidis ... ... ... ... 340

2. It belonged originally to the celebrated family of

Sulis, of Anglo-Norman race in Northamptonshire notices of the family family forfeited the barony in 1320 new grants by Robert I. to Robert, son of Walter Stewart notices of the barony . . . 342

3. Chapel of Caverton ... ... ... ... 343

4. A tumulus called the Black Dyke ... ... 344

5. Mainhouse formerly included in the territory of

Caverton at one time belonged to the family of Chatto now property of Ralph Nisbet ... 345

xvi CONTENTS.

XXVIII. ORMESTON.

Etymology— situation— description of barony— "be- longed first to Orm, the son of Eilar— it became a surname to a family, in the end of the 13th cen- tury, of Ormeston it continued in the family of Ormeston till 1573, when James Ormston was exe- cuted for his share in Darnley's murder ... 346

It was then granted to Ker of Cessford— it after- wards belonged to William Elliot— to William Mein now to the Marquis of Lothian ... 349

Tower and town of Ormeston destroyed by Dacre and Hertford ... ... ••• ••• 35°

XXIX. HETON.

350

Etymology— its situation— the first person who appears as owner was Alan de Perci— notices of family ... ••• ••• ••- . •••

It belonged to the family of Colville m 1230— it re- mained with that family till 1509, when it passed to the Kers— it is now property of Sir George Douglas and William Scott Ker of Chatto— notices of the town of Heton ... ... 353

HISTOKY AND ANTIQUITIES

ROXBURGHSHIRE, &c.

OF THE DISTRICT OF KELSO.

This district comprehends, on the north of the river Tweed, the parishes of Kelso, Makerstoun, Ednam, Smailholm, and Stitchel ; on the south of the river, that part of Kelso which formed the old parish of Maccuswel, and the parishes of Roxburgh, Sprouston, Yetholm, Morebattle, Linton, and Eck- ford.

Before entering upon a particular description of this district, it will be necessary, for the proper understanding of the subject, briefly to sketch its ancient history. As already stated in a previous part of this wrork, all the country lying along the VOL. in. B

2 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

Forth, and from the Tweed to the Avon, was known in the age of Bede as Bernicia. In the " Scoto-Irish Chronicle/' it is named Saxonia. After 843, the territory acquired from the Saxon settlers, who had come in on the Romanized Ottadeni and Gadeni the name of Lothian, which it still bore in 1020, when it was ceded by Eadulf-Cudel to Malcolm Ceanmore, the King of Scotland. About 1097, that part of the district lying along the Tweed, as far up as the confluence of the Gala and the Lamermoors came to be known as the Merse. In after times, the three districts, Merse, Lamer moor, and Lauderdale, were formed into a sheriffwic under the name of Berwick- shire. At the death of Edgar, in 1107, his brother Alexander succeeded to the throne, and, by a settle- ment of the deceased king, his youngest brother, David, had assigned to him as his appanage all the territory lying to the south of the Friths of Forth and Clyde except Lothian. While Alexander reigned over Scotland and the country on the north of the Tweed, David enjoyed all Teviotdale and Tweeddale. It was not till the death of Alexander, in 1 1 24, that David, after he became king, was enabled to exercise jurisdiction over the land to the north of the Tweed. Between the erection of the bishoprick of Lindis- farne in 635 and 1020, all the churches in Lothian and Teviotdale were considered as dependencies of the see of Lindisfarne and Durham. But when Lothian was ceded to the Scottish King, the Bishop

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC 3

of St. Andrews assumed the ecclesiastical jurisdic- tion of the whole churches in the district. At the dawn of record, many of the churches of Teviotdale belonged to the Bishop of Glasgow.* When the pious David ascended the throne, he renovated the bishoprick of Glasgow, and placed all the churches of Teviotdale under the jurisdiction of the church of Glasgow, and appointed John, his tutor, as the first bishop of the restored see. In 1 238, the bishoprick of Glasgow was divided into two distinct archdeacon- ries, of which Teviotdale was one, and from that time enjoyed its own archdeacon.-J*

The river Tweed formed the boundary between the two episcopates of Glasgow and St. Andrews, from Carham Burn to the mouth of the Gala, and from the Gala it ran along the ridge which separates Lothian from Tweeddale and Clydesdale. It will thus be seen that the parishes of Kelso, Stitchel, Ednam, Smailham, and Makerstoun, were included in the deanery of the Merse, and bishoprick of St. Andrews.^ No part of any of these parishes lay on the south side of the Tweed.

Before 1020, the river Tweed was the boundary

* Inquisitio Davidis, 1116.

t It had its Dean during the days of Bishop Jocelin, be- tween 1174 and 1180. The Archdeacon regulated the clergy of Teviotdale, subject to the Bishop of Glasgow.

X In 1221 there was a charter granted uin plena capitulo de Mersa apud Ednham" Lib. de Calchou.

4 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

between two hostile peoples; and there can be little doubt that many of the strengths which are to be seen on the south margins of the river were to de- fend the inhabitants of Teviotdale from the Pagan Saxons who dwelt on the north bank of the stream. In after times, when the English seized Teviotdale, and held Koxburgh Castle for more than a hundred years, these forts would be occupied by them as a defence against the lawful owners of the soil resum- ing possession* The fact that these strengths are mostly confined to the south bank of the Tweed, leads to the belief that the passages of the river re- quired to be guarded from an enemy advancing from Lothian on the north.

The names of places on the north side of the Tweed evince that the Saxon tribes had gained the complete ascendancy over the Romanized Ottadenian people in this district. The predominance, also, of Saxon names on the south side of the Tweed, to the east of the Teviot river, show the extent of their colonization, and the superinduction of their lan- guage on the ancient British. The Saxon " Hleaw," as Law, appears in the names of many little hills and places on the east of the Teviot: e.g., Sunlaws, Gra- hamslaw, Blacklaws, Greenlaws, Wormeslaw, Hose- law, Gastlelaw, Todlaw, Lempitlaw,Lurdinlaw, Soft-

* Several writers imagine that a number of these strengths are Danish, forgetting that these robbers had no permanent settlement here.

KOXBUKGHSHIKE, ETC. 5

laws, Spylaw, Pylelaw, in fact, every little hill in that locality bears either a Saxon name or a Saxon ter- mination. On the north side of the Tweed, the " law" enters into the names of many places Brox- laiv, Luntinlaw, Galalaw, Tanlaw, Sharpitlaw. The Saxon rig appears in several names, such as Musrig, Mainrig, Greatridge. The word Kaims, or Cairns, for a ridge, is found in several names of places be- tween Broxlaw and Combflat, a little to the east of Ednam village ; the old Saxon word thyrn for thorn in Nenthom. Holm, Home Castle, Stitchel, and Ham in Edenham, Smailham, etc. The word hope is also of frequent occurrence. Proceeding west- ward, the Saxon names of places become gradually fewer, showing that the colonization was from the eastward ; and the rareness of Scoto-Irish names on the east establishes, on the other hand, that these people advanced on the district from the west.

It is worthy of notice, that while Druidical remains abound in Teviotdale, scarcely any are to be found on the north of the Tweed. It is thought that the difference between the two sides of the river in this respect arises from the occupation of the country on the north by the Saxons, who continued all pagans for nearly 200 years after their first entrance on the land, and delighted in the destruction of every ves- tige of the Druid worship, or the remains of the native people. British remains were the object of their special enmity.

b THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

Kelso, the capital of the district, makes its first appearance in 1128, in the charter of David to the Selkirk monks, on their being placed on the well- sheltered banks of the Tweed. In that document it is written in three different ways Calchou, Kel- chou, and Kalchu* The chronicler of Mailros, while recording the foundation of the abbey at Kelso as having taken place on May 3, 1128, enters the name Kelchehou,f and in various other entries in that work recording events between 1 128 and 1255 it appears as Kelchou. In the Register of Glas- gow it is written Chelgho,\ Chelcho, Kelcho, Kalcho, Kelechou; and in 1176, John the abbot writes the name of the place exactly as it is written at the pre- sent day, " Kelso. In the Book of Dry burgh it appears as Calcheo, Kelkou, Kelku ; and in the writ of protection granted by the English king to the abbot and convent, the name is written Kellesowe.\\ It is thought that the name is derived from the British Oalch and the Saxon hou, descriptive of a small eminence on the margin of a river, on which part of the town is now built, and still bearing the appellation of the Chalkheugh. I have conversed with several old people who distinctly remembered the Chalkheugh before it was built upon or protected

* Charter of David to the Monastery. Lib. de Calchou.

t Chron. Mail., p. 69, &c. % Circa, 1150.

§ Eeg. of Glas., p. 40.

j| Rotuli Scotia?, vol. i. pp. 24, 25.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 7

from the river in 1810, and who stated that the face of the cliff had then the appearance of chalk, and which they, in their boyhood had digged for alabaster. The cliffs on the east bank of the river are also formed of the same kind of calcareous de- posit; and it is probable that the name of Cal- chou was, by the native people, intended to describe these cliffs as well as the eminence on the north side of the river. Several etymologists, however, take a different view, and think that the name is derived from the Celtic caol, caolas, a narrow chan- nel.* It is no doubt true, that the Tweed does flow through a strait for some miles above Roxburgh Castle, and was separated into several narrow chan- nels by the annas, which formerly existed near to Faircross and the present anna, lower down the river, opposite the Chalkheugh. These narrow channels were also in close proximity to Kelso, in the olden time. Indeed it might have been appropri- ately described as the town on the Caolas; i.e., narrow channels on the Tweed and Teviot. Still I am inclined to think that the true etymology of the name is to be found in the British Calch and the Saxon hou, the more especially as there are no other cliffs of the same nature in that locality. The Calch- hills, on the Tweed, would be a good description of the place at an early period, and by which it might

* Williamson's Etymology, p. 84.

8 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

be easily discovered. It must also be kept in view, however, that the Saxon " Gealc" is very like the British Calch, and it may be that the whole name is Saxon " Cealchou."*

The Town of Kelso is situated on the north side of the river Tweed, exactly opposite to the mouth of the river Teviot, on a piece of haughland, formed by a bend of the river. While passing Roxburgh Castle, the course of the Tweed is to the east, till turned in a northerly direction by the cliffs at Max- wellheugh, which are a continuation of the high land forming the east bank of the river Teviot. On the north side of the haugh is a semicircular ridge, which takes its rise at the river Tweed, in the policy of Floors, and continuing eastward, forms, at Sharpitlaw, the left bank of the river, and divides the dale through which Tweed flows from the flat land of Edendale. The right bank of the Teviot and Tweed is also semicircular. The locality is remarkable for scenes of great beauty. From the summit of the river's bank at Maxwellheugh, an extensive view is obtained of the surrounding scen- ery. The eye roams over the broad expanse of waters beneath, and the termination of the beauti- ful vale where " the silver tide of Teviot loses itself in Tweed's pellucid stream ;" the lovely little islet in the midst of the parent river; the moss-clad

* Johnson derives the English Chalk from the Saxon Cealc.

ROXBUEGHSHIEE, ETC. 9

ruins of Koxburgh, and in the distance the cones of Eildon. On the left bank of the Tweed, the palace of the Duke of Roxburgh stands, environed by dark woods, while lower down are beautiful gardens ; houses clustered together ; a busy mill, with its waterfall; the Havannah, and several other sweet villas, overlook the beautiful sheet of water that rolls past; while over this scene the august pile, in all the solemnity of ruin, frowns majestically. On the right bank of the Teviot, and between it and the Tweed, in the midst of an extensive and well- wooded park, is Springwood, the seat of Sir George Douglas. Eastward, long reaches of the river are exposed to view, the margins in the highest state of cultivation, studded with mansions, among which Henderside Park occupies a prominent position. The country to the north has the appearance of rising in terraces from the back of Kelso to the woody heights of Stitchel, Mellerston, and of Home. A fine view is obtained from the second arch of the bridge next to Kelso, looking up the river ; but the view which is held in the greatest admiration by strangers is from the Chalkheugh, the picture in- cluding the meeting of the waters, the vale of Teviot, and the ruins of the " Towering Fortress;"* but it

* It is said in the Kelso Records, p. 113, that Lady Hol- land, whose taste was so celebrated, had been heard to declare, that the scene here surpassed any she had met with in France and Italy.

10 THE HISTOEY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

is in vain to attempt to pourtray with the pen the scenery around this lovely town ; the eye must rest upon the luxuriant picture. Well might Leyden sing*

" Bosomed in woods, where mighty rivers run, Kelso's fair vale expands before the sun ; Its rising downs in vernal beauty swell, And fringed with hazel winds each flowery dell; Green spangled plains to dimpling lawns succeed, And Tempe rises on the banks of Tweed. Blue o'er the river Kelso's shadow lies, And copse-clad isles amid the waters rise; Where Tweed her silent way majestic holds, Float the thin gales in more transparent folds. New powers of vision on the eye descend, As distant mountains from their bases bend, Lean forward from their seats to court the view, While melt their softened tints in vivid blue. But fairer still at midnight's shadowy reign, When liquid silver floods the moonlight plain, And lawns and fields, and woods of varying hue, Drink the wan lustre and the pearly dew; While the still landscape more than noontide bright, Glistens with mellow tints of fairy light."

The Town of Kelso is large and handsome, con- taining many well-built houses. In the centre of the town is a spacious market-place of a square form. Roxburgh-street, the approach from the north, enters the square at the north-west angle. Bridge- street leaves the market-place in a line with Rox-

* Ley den's Scenes of Infancy, p. 137.

EOXBUKGHSHIRE, ETC. 11

burgh-street, and leads to the Bridge over the Tweed, and to the country on the south and west. The Town Hall stands on the east side of the square, forming the end of a tongue, with each side a street ; on the north, the Horse Market; and on the north-east, the Wood and Coal Market-streets. The Millwynd runs from the south side of the market-place to the mill on the Tweed. Besides these streets there are a number of smaller wynds and lanes, forming the means of communication between various parts of the town to the river and to the country.

The Hall was erected in 1816, chiefly by the munificence of James, Duke of Roxburgh, aided by subscriptions of the inhabitants. It is a building with a pediment in front, supported by four Ionic columns, surmounted by a turret or belfry. In the court-room hangs a whole-length portrait of his Grace, placed there at the expense of the inhabitants, to evince the gratitude felt for the benefits which his Grace conferred on the town. The Hall stands upon the site of an old house, which answered the purposes of a council-room and tolbooth, taken down about the beginning of the century. It was raised upon four pillars of stone, and had a high steeple, with a clock. In August, 1764, the light- ning struck the steeple, and carried the weather- cock into the churchyard.* With the exception of

* Kelso Kecords, p. 124.

1 2 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

the tenement occupied by Stephen Balmer, the whole of the square seems to have been rebuilt since 1790.* Within the recollection of aged inhabitants, the square which now boasts of so many fine build- ings was a quadrangle of straw-covered houses, with their high, pointed gables to the front, which led the celebrated traveller Pennant to remark that Kelso resembled a Flemish town. A huge and unseemly pantwell, surmounted by a lamp, stood in one corner. To a saddler's apprentice breaking this pant and its lamp, the inhabitants of Kelso were, in after years, indebted for many improve- ments, and one of its most handsome buildings. The boy, fearing the wrath of the civic functionaries for demolishing the lamp, fled to London, where he succeeded in making his fortune as a navy agent ; and on returning to Kelso, when his youthful ex- ploit was forgotten, purchased part of the estate of Ednam from the old family of Edmonstone, built the Havannah, now called Ednam House, and the present commodious Cross Keys Hotel. The old Cross Keys stood on the site of Lindores' House, lately used as a post-office. Where the Commercial Bank now is, formerly stood an old tavern, with a peculiar sign suspended from its front. Pillars and piazzas stretched from the Millwynd in the direc-

* An old painting of the market-place, taken about 1790, for Horsenden, of the Cross Keys Hotel, a copy of which is in the possession of Mr. William Smith, Kelso.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 13

tion of Bridge-street. The shop windows, like deeply-seated eyes, afforded a dry promenade, and a play-ground to the youth of the town. The en- trance into Beaumont-street from the square was by a low pend. The crockery market was on the opposite side of the entrance into this street.

Bridge-street owes its existence to the im- proved communication by the bridge over the Tweed. The access originally was by the Abbey gardens and glebe, the old highway running straight down Maxwellheugh path, beyond the bridge end, across the site of Mr. Brown's cottage, past the Episcopal Chapel, and up to the great west door of the Abbey. Bridge-street was mostly occupied by tombs. There exists to this day Hardie's crypt, underneath the Spread Eagle; and in excavating, about three years ago, in the cellar of the Mail Office, dead men's bones were turned up by the workmen. Many wealthy men gave largely to the Abbey, for leave to lay their bones within its sacred precincts, in the vain imagination that they would lie undisturbed for ever. The handsome gateway into Ednam House was not then in Belmont-place, but between the Weigh-house and Forest's shop. The house now occupied by the National Bank and Messrs. Lugton and Porteous, existed at the begin- ning of the eighteenth century. It is erected over many very spacious, massy, and arched stone cellars, a peculiarity which gave rise to the mistaken no-

I 4 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

tion, that it occupies the site, and was reared upon the old underground foundations, of the Abbot's House.* These subjects were the property of a family of Ormiston ; and in the cess books, at the close of the reign of Queen Anne, it is entered as liable in duty for thirty windows.*)* Charles Ormi- ston was then the owner. He was a merchant, and carried on an extensive trade with Holland, through the port of Berwick-on-Tweed. In 1721 he was merchant-treasurer, and, on his own behalf and that of the company of merchants, applied for and ob- tained a decree, restraining, under a penalty of twenty pounds Scots, one John Ord, a fisherman from Old Cambus, and his father, from retailing brandy in Kelso. J In an upper room of that house, with an ornamented roof, the fire-place being lined with pictured Dutch tiles, the ancient religious wor- ship of the abbots of the monastery, was, in Ormis- ton's day, unobtrusively practised by his wife. Though the son of a Quaker, he had contracted an attachment for a Catholic lady, and, being at first impeded by the rules of the Friends, he threatened

* Tradition has it, that the Abbot's Stead occupied a stance above the Pipewell Brae, in a field adjoining that of Mr. Williamson, recently the property of Mr. Jordan, now that of Mr. Waldie of Henderside.

t At that time there seems to have been only seven houses in Kelso liable in window duty.

+ This was a kind of smuggling more directed against the trade of royal burghs than the revenue of the crown.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 15

to run off to the Plantations. One morning a scrap of paper was found by him lying on his dressing- table, with these laconic but significant words : "Thy sister married without my consent, and I did not disown her." It was his father's hand. The heretic bride was brought home, and while the trade of Hollands was conducted below, the mysteries of the mass were celebrated in the room with the Dutch tiles above, though no doubt sorely against the will, but yet without molestation from the old Quaker, whose sect was beyond others tolerant of religious differences. The sister above referred to, who mar- ried out of the pale of her party, but without re- nouncing her peculiarities, was the fine, liberal old Quakeress, to whom the boy Walter Scott was in- debted for the use of her library, afterwards the grandmother of the owner of the best preserved books and paintings in the district* The Queens Head Inn was one of the houses rated for window duty. It came to be occupied by Waldie of Hender- side, who succeeded to it through the Quakeress, who was an Ormiston, and through her certain parts of her lands. The arms of the two families are now quartered as the armorial bearings of the house of Henderside. The large apartment adjoin- ing Lauder's ball-room, and interposing between it and the churchyard, was that in which ducal and

* Mr. Waldie of Henderside.

1 6 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

baronial visitors were received, and is a modern addition. The house of Andrew Johnston, Horse Market, from its architecture, seems to be one of the seven houses entered in the cess books of 1721, and the tenement modernized for the shops of Messrs. Rutherfurd, booksellers, and Mr. Moore, draper, which then bounded the Hyde Maeket on the north, was another of these houses. The Ha- vannah, or Ednam House, noticed above, is compa- ratively modern. It was erected after the middle of the last century, by James Dickson, the runaway saddler's apprentice, on his return to his native district* It is a prominent object in Pennant's sketch of Kelso, taken in l772.f The mansion is elegant, built of square hewn stone, and stands in the midst of a garden opening on the river. It is ornamented by a Gothic temple; and when the learned Hutchieson visited the locality in 1776, "statues were disposed on the grass plots, which were intersected with gravel walks and flower knots." Dickson was owner of part of the old barony of Ednam, in the neighbourhood of Kelso, and of Broughton in Peebleshire. For some time he repre- sented the Peebles district of burghs in Parliament. In conjunction with Sir Alexander Don, and others,

* The house was named the Havannah, from its owner hav- ing amassed a considerable sum by purchasing, while a navy agent, the shares due to the captors of the Havannah.

t Pennant's Tonr, vol. iii. p. 278.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 17

he formed the society of the Bowmen of the Border, and re-established Kelso races. John Mason, in his Records of Kelso, is studious to tell that Dickson, " at these races, run over Caverton Edge, in the year 1765, ran his gray horse Cheviot," and won. Mr. Dickson was also the projector of a canal between Berwick and Kelso, but which was given up at the time for want of support.

The Abbey Close joins the present Bridge-street opposite the ruined abbey. During the existence of the old bridge, it was one of the principal approaches to the town. On the east of Bridge-street is the parish church, erected in 1773. It is in the shape of an octagon, with an immense roof, tapering to a point like a marquee, and supported by eight inner pillars. In 1823, an attempt was made by the principal heritors to improve the appearance of this inelegant structure, but the proposal was rejected by the smaller heritors, and Kelso continues to be disfigured by one of the ugliest edifices that ever was reared. Between 1649 and 1771, part of the ruins of the Abbey was formed into a parish church, by arching over the transept and head of the cross, with a wing taken from the ruined choir.* The church was de- serted at the period mentioned, in consequence of

* Engraving of the Abbey and adjoining subjects, in Hutchinson's Northumberland, vol. ii. p. 263, date, 1776; also, view taken by Grose in 1787, vol. i. p. 115.

VOL. III. C

18 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

some fragments of plaster falling from the ceiling during divine worship, the congregation believing that a prophecy of Thomas the Rhymer, to the effect that the kirk was to fall at the fullest, was about to be fulfilled ; and although the alarm proved ground- less, the congregation could not be induced to as- semble again within the walls of the ruin, a result not to be regretted, as it ultimately led to the open- ing up of the beautiful structure to public view. A tier of arches thrown over those under which the Protestant people assembled to worship formed the prison of the town, and was the original from whence the Author of Waverley sketched the Tolbooth, to which the celebrated Border Bluegown was con- signed, on his being carried away from the sports of the adjacent Butts.* According to old Bluegown, it " wasna sae dooms bad a place as it was ca'd ; ye had aye a gude roof ower your head to fend aff the weather; and if the windows werena glazed, it was the mair airy and pleasant for the summer season, and there were fock enow to crack wi', and he had bread eneuch to eat, and what need he fash himsell about the rest o't?"f The Butts is supposed to be the place, where "the young men, availing themselves of the fine evening, were engaged in the sport of long bowls on a patch of common, while

* The ashes of Andrew Gemmels, the original of Edie Ochiltree, lie in Roxburgh grave-yard, t Antiquary, voL ii. p. 213.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 19

the women and elders looked on/'* Scott was a frequent inmate of the cottage situated at the south- east corner of the Knowes, or Butts, occupied by his aunt, who had been his patient preceptress at Sandy kno we; and no doubt he had often enjoyed the sight of the games on the patch of common hard by. The church and grave-yard are enclosed by a high wall; but when Hutchinson (1776) and Grose (1787) visited Kelso, the Knowes and yard were open and intersected with roads in every direc- tion. The entrance at the Kirk-style, between Grey and Balmer's house, was formerly a massive flight of steps, with a solid landing-place in the centre, and the Style at the Butts as it is now ; and the path that winds so crookedly on the east side of the manse to the river, taking off from the old school-house, and the whole extensive space had its only entrance for funerals by an iron gate into the abbey north door from the Abbey Close. There was formerly no carriage way between the houses and grave-yard.

The Mill of Kelso is thought to have been erected shortly after the foundation of the Abbey. It is certain that it existed at the end of the 12th century. During the reign of King William, he granted liberty to the monks of Kelso " to grind, free of multure, for three or four days, at his mill of

* Antiquary, vol. ii. p. 105.

20 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

Edinham, when their mill of Kelso should be stopped by floods or frost."* Next to the abbey, it is the greatest monument of the mechanical skill and en- terprise of its monastic proprietors. Tradition has it that the cauld of the mill was run away with every flood, and that the present dam-head was erected by the familiar spirits of the great wizard, Michael Scott, It would seem that, in the early days, the weirs were erected something like a stake and rice fence of the present day. During the 13th century, Thomas de Gordon, amongst many other favours, conferred on the monks of Kelso, on their agreeing to bury him in the grave-yard of the monastery, granted them " the free use of his woods, both stock and branches, to build their mill-dam." f In this locality is the beautiful islet in the Tweed, appear- ing, in the language of the minister of Kelso, as " a basket of flowers in the flood/' J A glimpse of this Anna, as it appeared to the tourist Pennant in 1772, is obtained through one of the arches of the bridge, in his picture of the town, taken from the right bank of the river, between the present bridge and Max- wellheugh. The river seems to have been flooded at the time the drawing was executed; and the islet appears as a cluster of foliage resting on the waters.

* Lib. de Calchou, pp. 18, 19, 303, 304.

+ lb. " Stock et raniail ad edificandum stagnum suum.

1 £ tatistical Account.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 21

In 1755, a dispute occurred between the feuars of Kelso and the Duke of Roxburgh e as to this anna; the inhabitants claiming a right to wash and dry their linen on it, as they had been immemorially ac- customed to do ; and the Duke, as proprietor of the land on both sides of the river, claimed as his own the anna in the middle of the stream. The Court held that, as the inhabitants had been in the constant use of whitening and drying their linen on the island, they were entitled to continue the possession thereof as formerly, but decided that the mill was the property of the superior. Another mill once existed at a place called the Cuckold's Lane, propelled by water from the site of the present Poors'-house, and past the Dispensary, into the Tweed.

Roxburgh-street is a modern name imposed by a person of the name of Matheson, about sixty or seventy years ago. This part of the town for- merly consisted of four divisions : the Gnnzie-nook, the Horse-shoe, the Chalkheugh, and the Windy Goul. The Cunzie-nook is supposed by some to have obtained its name from being the site of a mint, " Cunzie" coin, although no coins have been found inscribed with the name of Kelso ; yet Kelso may have been at one time a place of coinage, and that the coin bore the name of the King's burgh of Roxburgh; but certainly no coin yet discovered bears the impress " Kelso." During the siege of Roxburgh by James II., in 1460, there was a coin-

22 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

age, and the coin bore on the interior circle the in- scription, " villa Roxburgh" but how the coinage could have been in the town of Koxburgh at that time, is not clear. From 1346 to the siege in 1460, when James II. lost his life, Koxburgh had remained in the hands of the English king, and could not, during that time, have been a place of coinage. It is probable that, while the siege was proceeding, the coin was executed at Kelso, and impressed with the name of Koxburgh, the King's town. It is not easy to get over the name of the town on the coin, but it is certainly as difficult to reconcile the fact of a coin- age existing in a town that remained in possession of the English king during the life of James II. Though not attaching much importance to the name of Cunzie-nook, as the same name is to be found in many places of the county, yet it certainly is an ele- ment in support of the view, that the name was in- tended to describe the place where money was coined. The only thing tending to throw a doubt over the etymology is, that the coinage may have been in the town of Koxburgh, as the coin itself testifies, while the English held the Castle. The origin of the name of the Horse-shoe is also involved in difficulty. A short way up Roxburgh-street, a horse-shoe is firmly fixed in the middle of the street, and when one is worn out, a new one is substituted ; but there exists no tradition or document to tell the object of the shoe being placed in the street. I have made the most

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 23

careful inquiries from persons who have lived to an old age without having left the place, and searched every document accessible to me, without getting any light on the subject. It is certain, however, that it has long formed a well-known boundary in the town, and many houses in its locality are de- scribed as being bounded by the Horse-shoe. Were I to hazard a conjecture, it would be that the horse- shoe is descriptive of some noted hostelry that stood in that locality, or that it received its name from being occupied by stables, or smiths' shops. In almost every town of importance was to be found, in times bygone, a hostelry with the sign of the horse-shoe. But the puzzle here is, that the Horse- shoe is evidently descriptive of a locality or a divi- sion, and not a single tenement.

After the streets, the approaches to the town naturally suggest themselves for consideration. Be- fore the erection of the old Bridge in 1754, which fell a victim to the autumn floods of 1797, the only access from the south and west was by ford or ferry. In the Theatrum Scotice, published near the begin- ning of the 18th century, the ferry-boats are seen in full operation. A flat-bottomed boat is engaged con- veying the horse-loads, and two small boats trans- porting the foot-passengers at the ferry at the Mill- wynd. There was also a cobble at the head of the town opposite St. James' Green, and another ptying

"1\ THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

on Maxwell.* All these ferries were, previous to the dissolution of the monastic establishments, in the hands of the friars of Roxburgh.-)- In 1754, a bridge of stone was thrown over the Tweed, of which the stone piers are still to be seen at a short distance above the present bridge. In Pennant's engraving of the town and river, this bridge is in the fore- ground, consisting of six arches, the third and fourth of which appear to be higher than the others. Pen- nant says it was an " elegant bridge of six arches," and Hutchinson, that he had access to the town " by a fine stone bridge of six arches." At the time this bridge was erected, it is believed that no other bridge existed on the Tweed between Berwick and Peebles.^ Coldstream P>ridge was opened for traffic in the autumn of 1766, and the elegant bridge at the con- fluence of the Leader with the Tweed, in the begin- ning of the present century. § All the old bridges

* Ketours, No. 282.

t All the passages on the river seem to have been in the hands of the clergy. In 1199, when the Bridge of Berwick was earned away by the flood, a dispute arose between the King and the Bishop of Durham, as to rebuilding it, as it abutted on his land. The bridge which they erected only lasted nine years. In 1334, the bishop got a grant of the passage. AylofF Cal. 147.

X The present bridge at Berwick, of 16 arches, was built of stone in the reign of Elizabeth. Wallis' Northumberland, vol. ii. p. 41. It is said that it is founded upon wool packs, from the sources whence the rxponsos of building were drawn.

§ Vol. i. pp. 75 77.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 25

which existed during the days of the Komans, and in the period of Border contention, had fallen into decay or been destroyed. Perhaps no bridge on the river was the scene of greater strife than the Bridge of Roxburgh. It is a pity there is no evidence to mark the exact situation of this well-contested access. In Patten's Narrative of Somerset's expedition, it is stated that between Kelso and Roxburgh there had been a great stone bridge with arches, which the Scots had broken down to prevent the English cross- ing over to them.* In 1370, Edward III. granted the burgesses of Roxburgh forty merks for the repair of this bridge.f In 1398, Sir Philip Stanley, the Cap- tain of Roxburgh Castle, claimed for the King of England ^2000, against the Earl of Douglas' son and others, for having broken the bridge, burnt the burgh, and destroyed a great quantity of hay and fuel. J In 1410 the bridge was again broken down by the Earl of March and others.§ In the burgh books of Kelso, there is an entry under March, 1718, bearing that Sir William Kerr of Greenhead's house and offices at Bridgend were burned, with all his

* Patten says that the Tweed at Kelso was of great depth and swiftness, running thence eastward into the sea at Ber- wick, and was notable and famous for two commodities, especially salmon and whetstones.

t " Pro reparatione et emendatione pontes ultra aquam de Twede."— Rotuli Scotia?, vol. i. p. 937.

% Border History, p. 365. § lb. p. 380.

26 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

furniture and goods. This place was situated in the policy of Springwood Park, a little way to the south of the old graveyard, and at a place where the river Teviot was forded before the erection of the present bridge. In the map of Timothy Pont, drawn by him in the beginning of the 17th century, published after his death in Blaeu's Atlas Scotise in 1655, a fort is seen near the mouth of the Teviot; and in Stobie's map of 1772, a considerable num- ber of houses are shown on the right bank of the Teviot, a short way above Maxwellheugh Mill. This place could not have got its name from the old bridge which was carried away by the floods, because it was only erected in 1754, and the name existed long before that date. There must have been a bridge here in early times, either over the Teviot or on the Tweed, which imposed a name upon the place, although the bridge over the Tweed, connecting Eoxburgh with Kelso, has always been looked for higher up the river, yet it may have been in this locality. The pre- sent bridge was begun in 1800, and finished in 1803, at a cost, including approaches, of about ,£18,000. It is, in length, 494 feet, breadth of roadway, 25 feet, and its height from the foun- dation is about 57 feet. There are five ellipti- cal arches, the span of each being 72 feet, and the piers 14 feet. The late Mr. Rennie was the architect; and it is said that Waterloo Bridge over

EOXBUEGHSHIKE, ETC. 27

the Thames in London was built after the same plan. The structure is very elegant, and is worthy of the lovely locality in which it is placed. There is a fine painting of Kelso by Macculloch, in which the bridge is a prominent object.* "Few scenes,"

* In addition to what is stated in vol. i. p. 73, as to the river Tweed, I may further refer to an earthquake which happened in April 27, 1656, and which followed the course of the Tweed from its source to the ocean. The shock was felt only in the river and places adjacent, but in no other part of the kingdom. Balfour's Annals, vol. iv. p. 8. In the Newcastle Journal, March 19, 1748, is a letter from a gentleman in Scotland, stating that, on the 25th of January previous, the river Teviot, for two miles before it joins the river Tweed, had stopped its current, and its channel became dry, leaving the fishes on dry ground, many of which were taken up by the country people, and sold at Langton and other places. It continued in that condition for the space of nine hours ; and when it resumed its course, it did so gradu- ally, till it ran as usual, but in no greater quantity. On the 19th February of the same year, the river Kirtle was dry for six hours, leaving fishes at the bottom, which alarmed the country so much, that Sir William Maxwell, who lived within 500 yards of it, and many of the country people, rode along the banks of the river, and found it dry for six miles, but could not find out the cause of the water stopping. Four days afterwards, the river Esh itself stopped its course, and the channel became quite dry, except some deep holes, for the space of six hours. The strangeness of the facts com- municated, and the doubtfulness of the public concerning them, induced the proprietors of the journal to make inquiries on the subject from persons living on the spot, and they re- ceived a report from a gentleman of whose veracity they had faith, and who was in part an eye-witness. He stated that

28 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OP

says the writer of the New Statistical Account of the Parish, "are more imposing than that which opens to the tourist, as he descends from the oppo- site village of Maxwellheugh, with the prospect beneath him of this fine architectural object, the

he observed the Esk sink several inches perpendicularly that day, and at first attributed it to frost, or the dryness of the times, but he considered that the greatest frosts, nor the greatest drought in summer, never had such effect. The rivers Sark and Liddell stopped their course, and the shallows became dry, on Saturday the 20th of February ; Sarlc, near Philipstown, in the parish of Kirk Andrews ; Esk and Tine were both dry on the 25th ; Esk, at a place called the Row, about a mile below Langton ; as also above Langholm and Tine near West Linton; Kirtle was dry some days before, near Springhill. There was some little water running among the small stones, but several persons passed through without wetting their feet. The places where Esk and Liddell were dry are seldom under sixteen or eighteen inches deep in the driest times. There was very little frost on the Esk that day. There was no swell of the water as if stopped by frost, but a general sink or lessening of the water. Liddell was dry in the afternoon, and the other rivers in the morning, and con- tinued so till ten o'clock, when they began to flow again gently, and rose to the usual height in a short time. The reporter concludes by saying that "this account is not disputed here any more than that the sun shines in the clearest day." In the same journal, March 5, 1753, it is stated "that some years ago the river Tweed was dried up near Peebles, from six in the morning till six at night, the current being sus- pended during that time, of which many persons were eye- witnesses." Since the first volume of this work was pub- lished, a stoppage of the river Tweed was observed about Innerleithen, and which was attributed to frost.

ROXBURGHSHIKE, ETC. 29

majestic Tweed, the picturesque town and abbey, and the noble background of the castle, woods, and surrounding heights of Floors *

The Town, while the property of the monks, formed part of the regality of the Abbey. Soon after the Eeformation, it was granted to Francis, Earl of Bothwell, but returned to the Crown at his forfeiture in 1594. In 1605, it was bestowed on Sir Robert Ker, of Cessford, the ancestor of the pre- sent Duke of Roxburghe. In 1634, Kelso, which was previously included in the barony of Holydean, was separated and erected into a free burgh of barony, with powers to the baron and his male heirs in all time to receive and admit new burgesses, to appoint baillies, clerk, officers, and other members necessary for the government of the burgh, to hold weekly public markets, and two free fairs yearly for the space of eight days, to receive and uplift the customs and duties thereof, and to apply the same to the common good of the burgh, and to establish regulations for the general good of the town, advancement of trade, and encouragement of manufactures. The town was incorporated after the passing of the act, but the sett in existence is dated 1757, and under it the town is governed by a baillie appointed by the Duke of Roxburghe, and fifteen

* New Statistical Account, p. 321.

30 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

stentmasters. The corporate bodies are seven : viz., the merchant company, skinners, weavers, tailors, shoemakers, hammermen, and fleshers. These bodies admit freemen, and enforce obedience to the regula- tions of the burgh. Each trade elects its preses and deacons. The baillie judges in all disputes as to ad- mission to the trades, and holds courts for the deci- sion of cases falling under his jurisdiction. The inhabitants having some years ago adopted the Police Act, the town may now be said to be almost entirely under the management of the Commissioners of Police, elected by the ten-pound householders. The Eecords of the Burgh Court commence in 1647, Andrew Ker of Maison Dieu, baillie of the regality. The earliest date in the convenery trade books is in 1 658. The Merchant Company's Kecord, so far as yet discovered, does not go back farther than 1771. The power of the baillie, as well as the customs of the inhabitants of the town, may be illustrated by a few excerpts from the burgh books previous to the passing of the Heritable Jurisdiction Act in 1749. In 1641, certain acts were passed by the baillie of the regality Patrick Don with the view of keep- ing good neighbourhood among the neighbours of the nether fields at Kelso, with consent of the hail neighbours and persons concerned, viz., " That no person whatsoever presume to lift or take away any march stones betwixt neighbours' lands, under a

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 31

penalty of fifty shillings to the Burlaw men/'* No person presume to gather other men's pease, or to gleane the same, without leave asked and given by the owners thereof, under pain of five pounds to the baillie, and fifty shillings to the Burlaw men for ilk fault. No persons whatsoever offer to lead away stones, or clay, or pick broom off other persons' lands or dykes, without leave asked and given by the owners of said lands, under penalty of forty shillings ; that no person gather thistles or weeds from among the corn without leave asked and given. No person in the time of harvest to bring in any shorn corn, either peas, oats, or other corn, into town after eight o'clock at night, though the corn be their own. In 1711, "the whilk day the baillie {Gilbert Ker) un- derstanding that there are several prentices, journey- men, and other persons molests and troubles the boys at the Grammar School in the Churchyard whyle at their innocent dyvertione, and that to the effusion of their blood, and hazard of their lives; and considering the laudable custom of this place for crushing fresh abuses, does ratify and approve thereof; and farder, whatever damage is done to the

* Each barony had its Burlaw men, for the settlement of disputes between neighbours, as to any loss or injury sustained by the cattle belonging to each other. They met forthwith on the ground, and administered summary justice. The word itself means short law, or speedy justice.

32 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

scholars, it is hereby declared, that parents shall be liable for their children, and masters for their ser- vants, prentices, and journeymen, as guilty of blood wyt, and in case of not in a condition to pay the fine, ordains application to be made to the justices of the peace for delivering them over as knaves or other public pests and vagabonds, and ane extract hereof to be given to the next district meeting of the justices of the peace here/' In 1716, the same authority endeavoured to prevent football from being played within his jurisdiction : " Forasmuch as there were several unallowable abuses, tumults, and riots committed the last year at the football, and that the same did create feud and enmity amongst several of the neighbours and inhabitants, and also consider- ing, by divers old laws and acts of Parliament, the football is discharged: these do therefore prohibit and discharge the football from being played by any of this jurisdiction, either within the town or the precincts thereof/' In 1717, Baillie Chatto passed the following enactment, which shows the rudeness of a comparatively modern age :*"" The baillie, in ane lawful fenced court this day, having considered of ane evil custom and practice of the feuars' servants, and others who possess the land, and labours the same in Kelso, that they compel their neighbour servants at their entry to serve any master in this place, to give money or ale to them under the notion of brothering the said men servants, and, in case of

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 33

refusal, abuses their masters by taking away their pleugh and other labouring graith, to the great dis- turbance of the peace in this town and incorporation, which ought to be prevented in time to come. Therefore, and for remeid thereof, the baillie, by the force of this act, prohibits and discharges all the servants within the burgh, and commonly called Whipmen* frae craving, forcing, or exacting frae

* The society or brotherhood against which the law was directed consisted of farmers' servants, ploughmen, and car- ters, commonly called whipmen. The regulations of the society were secret. Once a-year a public meeting was held, for the purpose of amusement, at which the members were dressed in their best clothes, and heads adorned with bunches of ribbons, hanging over their shoulders. The members assembled in the market-place about eleven o'clock forenoon, mounted on horses, armed with clubs and wooden hammers, in military form, from whence they marched, with drums beat- ing, music playing, and flags waving, to the common, about half-a-mile from the town, the place of rendezvous, to their sports. The first part of the performance, which was called the cat in barrel, consisted in putting a cat into a barrel stuffed with soot, and hung up upon a beam fixed upon two high poles, under which the members rode in succession, striking the barrel as they passed with their clubs or ham- mers. On the barrel being broken, the cat jumped down from the sooty prison, when it soon fell a victim to the whip- men and the crowd of townspeople assembled to witness the sports. A goose was next hung up by the feet on the beam, and the members then rode one after another under it, each trying to catch hold of the head in passing, till some lucky brother plucks off the head, and carries it away in triumph. Horse-races followed, after which the brotherhood VOL. III. D

34 THE HISTOEY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

any other servant, new or old, any money or ale, coming under the notion of their right frae tenantry or brotherhood, or molesting or troubling them or their masters' pleugh graith, on the head foresaid, with certification, he or they who shall transgress this act shall ilk ane of them pay a fine to the Pro- curator-fiscal of the soume often groats toties quoties; and further, that there has been a base custom among the said whipmen of electing and choosing of ane of their ain number to be their lord or baillie, and ane other to be their officer, whereby they, to the disturbing of the peace, make laws and orders among themselves, contrare to the laws of the king- dom, and their masters' prejudice, such as the dis- charging any of their number to work, when any of them are convened before the magistrate for misde- meanours and offences, so that they turn to a party, and mob, and threatens, and dares the magistracy and authority itself, which ought to be prevented in time coming. Wherefore, for preventing the like

returned to Kelso, and ended the day in feasting and drink- ing. These cruel sports continued to be practised down to the beginning of the present century, when they ceased, and the sports confined to running races, chiefly in consequence of strictures written by Robert Mason, a native of Kelso, published in 1789 by James Palmer, the founder of the news- paper press in Kelso. It is thought that the strong arm of authority was directed against the whipmen, not only on account of the practices mentioned in the proclamation, but also that the society was secret, and at that period deemed dangerous.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 35

in time coming, the baillie discharges the said ser- vants, called whipmen, from choosing any baillie or lord officer amongst themselves, or to convene them- selves as formerly, under any pretence whatsoever, and that with certification, the contravener thereof, by choosing or being choosed, or meeting as above, shall pay a fine, ilk person guilty, of ^10 Scots toties quoties; and discharges the whole inhabitants of the town from giving the said whipmen shelter for such meetings, or selling ale to them on such occasions, and that under the penalty and certification aforesaid."

The Markets and Trade of the Town. The markets of Kelso appear at a very early period. By a charter of William the Lion, the monks of Kelso were allowed right of market under certain restrictions. The men of the monks living in the town were allowed to buy in the town fuel, materials for building, and provisions, on any day of the week excepting the day of the king's statute market at Eoxburgh ; they might expose in their own windows, bread, ale, and flesh ; any fish which they had car- ried to Eoxburgh, either on horseback or in wains, and which remained unsold, might also be exposed in their windows for sale ; dealers passing through the town with wains should not unload or sell, but pass on to the king's market at Eoxburgh. On the day of the statute market at Eoxburgh, it was de- clared unlawful to sell or buy anything in Kelso ;

36 THE HISTOKY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

and the inhabitants of that place were enjoined on that day to go to the king's market, and buy what they wanted in common with his burgesses of Rox- burgh, according; to their customs.*

The weekly market of the town is held on Fridays, and is attended by a great number of people, at which grain of every kind is sold by sample, both in the market-place and in the Corn Exchange a large, elegant, and commodious building, erected by subscription in 1856. There are also two market days for hiring servants, before each term of Mar- tinmas and Whitsunday. In March, there are good markets for horses ; and, during the winter season, monthly markets for sheep and cattle. The butchers used to offer flesh for sale in a public market, but for many years they have followed the regulations laid down in the charter of William the Lion, and exposed it in their shop windows. The foundation of the Abbey was the epoch of trade in Kelso. The monks and their men in early days were skilled as artisans. Between 1165 and 1171, William the Dyer lived in Kelso.*)- The various dealings in this town were greatly promoted by the establishment of a branch

* Lib. de Calchou, pp. 15, 305.

t lb. Dyers were forbidden to be drapers, and the wools of Scotland were, during the 14th and 15fch centuries, draped in Flanders. The nation was supplied with mercerie and habcrdasherie out of the low countries.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 3?

of the Bank of Scotland in 1774. At present there are five bank agencies in the town.

Literature. Under this head the libraries of the town may be first noticed. The Kelso library was founded in 1750, and contains about 6000 volumes. It is kept in a commodious building at the Chalkheugh, the property of the shareholders. In the library is a manuscript copy of Archbishop Spottiswoode's History of the Church of Scotland. The date of the copy is supposed to have been after 1625, as it contains an unsigned "Epistle Dedica- torie" to Charles I. The volume bears the word " Lauderdale" and it is thought to have been one of two MSS. of the work possessed by the Duke of Lauderdale, and disposed of at a sale by auction of his Grace's books, in " Tom's Coffee-house, Ludgate- hill," in 1692, by a friend of Evelyn's to whom they had been pawned. The catalogue of the sale con- tains two MSS. of Spottiswoode's work, Nos. 1 1 and 12. The Duke of Lauderdale died in 1682. This MS. is said, by Bishop Russell, to be an exact copy, with the exception of a few verbal alterations, of a manuscript marked "Ex bibliotheca apud Spottis- woode," which was put into his hands by the present representative of the Primates family* The New

* Preface, by Bishop Russell, to a new edition of Spottis- woode's History of the Church of Scotland, p. 3.

38 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

Library, founded in 1778, and the Modern Library in 1800, were united in 1858, and consist of about 4000 volumes. There are also libraries in connec- tion with the churches of the town. The "Physical and Antiquarian Society" was founded in 1834. A suitable building has been erected in Koxburgh- street, adjoining the Chalkheugh Library, and in which is an extensive collection of rare and valuable specimens of natural history and antiquities. Sir T. M. Brisbane is President. The Society was for- tunate in securing the services, as Secretary, for many years, of the accomplished Dr. Charles Wil- son, late of Kelso, while the skill exhibited by Mr. Heckford in the preservation of the animals is not surpassed by the best artists in London. The first newspaper started in Kelso was the British Chro- nicle, or Union Gazette, in 1783, by a person of the name of James Palmer. It was published every Friday morning in Bridge-street, and adjoined the Bank of Scotland. The Chronicle advocated liberal principles, which gave offence to those who held different opinions, and the result was the establish- ment of the Kelso Mail, under the superintendence of James Ballantyne, which still continues to be the organ of conservatism. At this press the first edi- tion of the Border Minstrelsy was printed. In March, 1823, the Border Courier was brought out by the late John Mason, in opposition to the Mail, but failed to gain sufficient support, and the last

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 39

number was published in the October following. In 1832, the Kelso Chronicle was set on foot by the Whigs of the district, for the purpose of advocating the principles of the party, and is still in existence. About three years ago, a reading-roomw&s erected by shareholders, and is well supplied with newspapers.

The Schools of Kelso have long been famed for eminent masters. In the Grammar School the Latin and Greek classics are taught, with French, geogra- phy, and mathematics. The rector has the maxi- mum salary and the statutory accommodation. The fees charged are, for classics, 10s. per quarter, and for mathematics, 10s. 6d. The late Dr. Dymock, one of the rectors of the Grammar School of Glas- gow, was master of this school from 1791 till 1808, and during that period attracted to the seminary sons of the most eminent scholars of the day. It was at this school that the great novelist Scott re- ceived part of his education. The master of the English School has a salary of £o, lis. Id., paid equally by the heritors of the landward part of the parish and the burgh, and the interest of <£J240 of money mortified for teaching poor scholars recom- mended by the kirk-session. The fees charged are, for reading, 3s. 6d., for writing, 4s. 6d., arithmetic, 6s. 6d. There are also a number of excellent pri- vate schools in the town, and boarding-schools for young ladies. Besides the week-day schools, there

40 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

are Sabbath schools connected with the Established Church and dissenting congregations in the town.

The town of Kelso has long been famed for its Races. The original course was on Caverton Edge, and afterwards, for a few years, on Blakelaw Edge. In 1822, James, late Duke of Eoxburghe, converted the Berry Moss into one of the finest race-courses in the kingdom. It is a mile and a quarter round, sixty feet broad, and from there being no rising ground, the horses are seen distinctly from the starting till the termination of the race. On the west of the course is an elegant stand, with suitable ac- commodation. There is a spring and an autumn meeting, the latter often enhanced by the presence of the Caledonian Hunt. The first race run on the new course was in September, 1822.

The Manoe of Kelso and Abbey. Although the first intimation of Kelso is to be found in the charter of David I., there can be little doubt that a town and church existed there at an earlier period. At the date of the charter, a church, dedicated to St. Mary, was planted in that situation ; but the state of the country may be inferred from Edenham being described as a waste in the days of King Edgar, who reigned between 1097 and 1107. At that period the manor of Kelso was the property of the King, and remained so till 1128, when it was granted by David to the monks of the order of St. Benedict,

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 41

whom he had settled in the desert at Selkirk, in 1113.* There is no information existing to point out the exact boundaries of the manor of Kelso, but it is thought to have comprehended the whole parish of Kelso lying on the north of the river Tweed, if not all the land lying between Brocsmouth and the influx of the Eden. When Malcolm IV. confirmed the grant of his grandfather David, he described it as " the town of Kelcho, with its due bounds in land and water, discharged quit and free from every bur- den; also the lands which Gerold gave me near the confines of the said town, which lands came down to the road which goes to Naythantliyrn" At the date of this charter there was only one town of Kelso; but in the reign of Robert I., two towns appear in the records. The wester town seems to have been incorporated at an early period, and governed by a 'provost, between 1165 and 1214. During the reign of William, Arnold the son of Peter of Kelso granted a messuage and some land, with a toft and croft in Kelso, and three shillings of annual rent paid by Ralph, the provost of the burgh. In 1323, the burgesses of wester Kelso appeared in the court of the abbot, and acknow- ledged that they had done wrong in making a new burgess without his consent. In an old rent-roll of the abbey, supposed to have been made up about

* Foundation Charter of Kelso. Chron. Mail. p. 64.

42 THE HISTOEY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

the beginning of the 14th century, easter Kalchou is entered as being in their own hands, and the mill of the easter town is said to be rented at c£J22. It is impossible to say, with any degree of certainty, the distinct boundaries of these two towns, but I think it may be fairly inferred, that the principal or wester town of Kelso lay along the river's bank, beyond the Duke of Koxburghe's old garden. The garden wall runs across what was of old the market- place of Kelso. The feuars of the third generation by-gone could point out to their children their for- mer steadings in the burgh. The market cross of this town stood, it is said, north of the Coblehole, from whence it was removed to the King's Tree. During the night the cross was abstracted from this place, and all trace of it has as yet been lost. A little to the west, and nearly opposite to St. James Fair- stead is the Faie-ceoss, which appears to have been in former times a village ; and after the erection of Broxfield into a barony, it was one of the seats of the baronial court. In the valuation-book of the county of Roxburgh, made up in 1791, and cor- rected to 1811, is entered as belonging to Isabella Trotter, " a small piece of ground surrounded by the pleasure-grounds of Floors;" and "lands in Fair- cross" are stated as having formerly belonged to Eichard Learmonth.* The abbot's seat or stead was

* Valuation Book, p. 43.

EOXBUKGHSHIRE, ETC. 43

at the Pipewell-brae, or ground which now forms a part of the estate of Henderside. In the valuation- book already referred to, there are a number of fields entered as being situated in this locality. Baillie John Jerdone was possessed of " one enclosure in Abbotseat." Charles Williamson has two enclos- ures there, and the heirs of Robert Happer three enclosures in Abbotseat.* In the Retour of the service of John Duke of Roxburghe, in 1696, the manor of Kelso is described as comprehending the lands called Almirielands and bakehouses of Kelso, the mills thereof, the fishings on the Tweed, and four ferry boats on the river, "the lands called Westercrofts ; the lands of Broombalks and Hoitt ; Broomlands; lands of Angreflat; the lands of Broomcroft ; the lands of Towncrofts ; lands of Blackbalks and west meadows ; the lands of Eshie- heugh, and all other moors and mosses lying near to the town of Kelso, and which were of old possessed by the abbots of Kelso and their tenants/'-f- There can be no doubt, however, that nearly all the pre- sent town of Kelso, built on the haugh, including the market-place, is erected upon what was for- merly the gardens and domestic buildings of the abbey. In the rent-roll given up by the Earl of Roxburghe, in 1630, there were twenty-seven feuars of the lands in the town and territory of

* Valuation Book, pp.41-43. t Eetours, No. 318.

44 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

Kelso ; twenty-one feuars of Willands and crofts in Kelso.

The colony was settled in Selkirk by David, to be near his castle and hunting-seat in the forest, where he often lived while Earl of Cumberland. While the abbey was erected near to the earl's castle and village, the men of the monks soon reared a town, which became known in after times as the Abbot's Selkirk, to distinguish it from the town of the king. Kadulphus was the first abbot of this fraternity, and who became abbot of Tyrone on the death of Bernardus in 1115* The second abbot, William, remained at Selkirk till the death of Kadulphus, whom he succeeded as abbot of Tyrone in ] 118.f The third abbot of Selkirk, and the first of Kelso, was Herbert, who afterwards rose to be Bishop of Glasgow at the death of John in 1147.J But on Roxburgh being chosen as a royal residence, Selkirk became inconvenient forboth king and monks. It is probable that between 1124 when David as- cended the throne and 1128, preparations had been made at Kelso for the reception of the monks, and the charter only granted when the accommodation was sufficient for the fraternity. While these works were proceeding, there can be little doubt that the monks

* Chron. Mail. p. 65. t lb. p. 66.

% lb. p. 66, " Et illi successit Herbertus Monachus postea primus abbas de Kelchou." lb. 73, " Obiit Johannes Glas- guensis Episcopus et Herbertus abbas de Calchou successit ei."

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 45

were lodged at Koxburgh by their pious founder. Sir James Balfour positively states that, " in May, 1125, David translated the Abbey of Selkirk to Koxburgh ;" but it is more likely that the complete removal of the fraternity did not take place till 11 28, the date of the charter, although the great body of the monks and their men might be engaged in the erection of the house from the time David became king. Considering the character of David, a proper location for his favourite monks would be one of his earliest cares on being raised to the throne. It is hardly possible at this day to appreciate the great benefits conferred on a district by the foundation of an abbey or religious house within its bounds. The inmates of these houses carried not only the gospel into the wilds and waste places of the land, but peace and civilization followed in their footsteps ; they stood between the oppressed poor, the serf, and slave, and the feudal tyrant and mili- tary spoilers of those benighted times. The abbeys were the sole depositaries of learning and the arts through many centuries of ignorance. The monks collected manuscripts, and made copies of valuable works. In the Scriptorum silent monks were con- stantly employed making copies of the Bible, which were sometimes sold, but were oftener "bestowed as precious gifts, which brought a blessing equally

* Balfour's Annals, vol. i. p. 10.

46 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

to those who gave and those who received." To these Benedictines are we indebted for nearly the whole of the works of Pliny, Sallust, and Cicero. They were the earliest painters, and the fathers of Gothic architecture, the inventors of the gamut, and the first who instituted a school of music was Guido d'Arizzo, a monk. They were the greatest farmers of the early times, and the first agriculturists who % brought intellect and science to bear on the cultiva- tion of the soil. Wherever they carried the cross, the plough also appeared. In the number of their flocks they rivalled kings and nobles. " The extra- ordinary benefit which they conferred on society by colonizing waste places places chosen because they were waste and solitary, and such as could be re- claimed only by the incessant labour of those who were willing to work hard and live hard lands often given because they were not worth keeping lands which, for a long time, left their cultivators half- starved and dependent on the charity of those who admired what we must too often call fanatical zeal even the extraordinary benefit, I say, which they conferred upon mankind by thus clearing and cultivating, was small in comparison with the advantages derived from them by society, after they had become large proprietors, landlords, with more benevolence, and farmers with more intelli- gence and capital than any others."* Take the

* Maitland's Dark Ages.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 47

House of Kelso as an illustration. When David placed the community at Selkirk, the district was overgrown with woods, nearly uninhabited, except by the beasts of the forest. But in a short time a town was built and peopled; churches were raised; the waste was converted into fruitful fields; the rose was seen to blossom where the bramble formerly grew. On the sources of the Beaumont and the Cayle, numerous herds of cattle and flocks of sheep covered the sides of the mountains, and corn waved on the summits of many of the hills. Mills were erected in the granges to grind the corn belonging to the monks, as well as the produce of their neigh- bours' lands. The deserts of Liddesdale were colo- nized by them at a time when it was dangerous for a Christian to be found in that wild region. For many years a monk of Kelso lived in the waste near to Hermitage Castle, preaching to the rude men of the district. So early as the days of William the Lion, the monks had converted the morasses on the upper parts of the Ale into arable lands. Where- ever they had a grange, they built cottages for the persons employed in labouring on the land, or tend- ing the flocks of sheep, or herds of cattle and swine. They built bridges and made roads throughout the whole country. In the Abbey the sons of the nobi- lity were boarded and educated.* To qualify the

* In 1260, Matilda of Moll granted her thirds in the lands Moll to the abbots and monks of Kelso, on condition that of

48 THE HISTOEY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

monks for being instructors of youth, one or more of them were generally in England studying the liberal faculties and sciences*

While an examination of the Chartulary tells of the wealth of the Monastery in its lands and houses, studs, flocks, and herds, it also exhibits an interest- ing picture of the social condition of the people during the 12th and 13th centuries. At first the lands were cultivated by the bondsmen and villeyns belonging to the Abbey,-f- but in the progress of time the hamlets to which a district of land was attached gradually came to be occupied by the free tenants, who rented each a husbandland, and the cattle and swine of all the husbandmen or tenants pastured on

they should board and educate her son with the best boys who were entrusted to their care. Lib. de Calchou.

* In the Book of Kelso there is the form of a license to enable a monk to go to England to study.

t These men might all be bought and sold with the land. In 1144, David granted to the abbot of Kelso the church of Lesmahago, and all Lesmahago, with the men cum homini- bus. In 1116, Waldeve, the Earl, gave to the same monks Halden and William, his brother, and all their children and their posterity. Andrew, the son of Gilbert Fraser, gave the monks some lands in the lordship of Gordon, with Ada, the son of Henry del Hoga my vileyn and all his issue : " Nativo meo cum tota sequla sua." All the prisoners not ransomed remained in bondage, and on the Borders they got the name of Cumerlach, from their constant wailing while working in the field. In the charters they are styled "Fugitivos.n

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 49

the common of the hamlet * There were also a number of cottages in the hamlet in which labourers lived, who possessed with each house a croft of about an acre of land, and the right of pasturing their cows and swine on the common, which con- sistedof pasture-land and woodland. When the hamlet increased to the size of a village, a mill, malt-kiln, and brewhouse appeared. Each of these husband- lands f used to rent in Eoxburghshire on an average of 6s. 8d. yearly, and services, such as the husband- man shearing for four days with his wife and whole family ; carrying a wainload of peats to the stable- yard, and one cart-load of peats to the abbey in summer ; travelling to Berwick with one horse-cart once in the year ; finding a man to wash the sheep, and another man to shear them, and assisting to carry the wool of the Grange to the abbey. While performing these services, the husbandmen generally got their victuals at the abbey; but those who

* In 1160, John, the abbot of Kelso, granted to Osbern, his man, half-a-carrucate of land in Midlem, he becoming a freeman, and paying yearly a rent of 8s. A carrucate of land was as much land as could be tilled by a plough with eight oxen. The same abbot granted to his man Walden the eighth part of Currokis for half-a-merk yearly, and the third part of Auchenlee, paying for it 2s. 3d. yearly.

t A husbandland was generally equal in extent to a bovate or oxgate, consisting of six, thirteen, and occasionally nine- teen acres. The extent depended on the number of oxgates granted to the husbandmen.

VOL. HI. E

50 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

washed and sheared the sheep often did so without victuals. To supply the want of capital, every hus- bandman was in use to lease with his land two oxen, one horse, three chalders of oats, six bolls of barley, and three bolls of meal ; a practice which is thought to be the origin of Steelbow* The cottages rented at about eighteen pence yearly; six days' labour in autumn; to assist at the washing and shearing the sheep of the Grange; and weeding the corn of the abbot.-)- The abbot was entitled to take from every house in every hamlet before Christmas a cock for a penny. A brewhouse usually rented for about 6s. 8d. yearly, with this condition, that the brewer was bound to sell the abbot a lagen and a half of ale equal to about seven quarts for a penny. A

* Steelbow is supposed to be derived from the Anglo-Saxon steel, signifying the state of the thing, its condition ; and bod in the British, bo in the Irish, and bye in the Saxon, mean habitation ; steelbow, the condition of the habitation. On the tenant entering into the subject, an inventory was taken of the goods belonging to the lord, and declared in the language of the lease of the 14th century, " Alle this to leve and to delivere to the said William Skrene or to his heyres at the termes endeV Madox, p. 144. The leases were for fifty years, or for life, and the widow of the tenant enjoyed the subjects during life. The monks were liberal landlords and indulgent masters. Stellnet seems to have the same meaning as steelbow, a fixed net at a particular place for fishing.

t The cottages were formed of wood and turf, and of the value of about 20s. Houses were deemed of little import- ance, the value was attached to the land.

ROXBUKGHSHIKE, ETC. 51

great quantity of malt was used during the 12th century, and it is supposed that the mill of Ednam alone ground not less than 1000 quarters of malt yearly.* All these services were, about 1 297, com- muted into a payment in money. The monastery acquired from the kings general grants of the use of their forests for pasturage, panage, and for cutting wood for building and burning, and for all other purposes. Earl David granted such a right to the abbot and convent of Selkirk, and on his ascending the throne, he renewed the grant in favour of the house of Kelso. David II. conferred on them a special grant of wood out of Jed forest to repair the abbey. Besides these royal grants, they en- joyed special grants from barons of the same privi- leges in particular forests, which extended not only to the monks, but to their men, all who were engaged in the cultivation of their lands, and to their shepherds. In these forests vast herds of

* Oat malt was generally used ; malt of barley appears sel- dom. Oat malt sold at 3s. 6d. per quarter, and barley at 4s. 4d., during the 12th and 13th centuries. An acre of oats was valued at 6s. Oats and wheat were the grain chiefly culti- vated at that period. Wheat sold at from 7s. to 8s. per quarter ; flour, 6s. per quarter ; oats, 3s. 6d. ; barley, 4s. 4d. ; pease, 2s. 9d. ; beans, 5s. ; salt, 5s. ; the carcase of an ox, from 5s. to 6s. 8d. ; fat hogs, 2s. 2d. to 3s. 9d. Wardrobe account The multure paid for grinding at the mills was fixed by King William at the sixteenth vessel for a freeman, and a firlot out of 20 bolls as Knaveship.

•>2 THE HISTOEY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

cattle and swine were reared, and in them their breeding mares ran in a wild state. From many barons they had grants of a tenth of the young stock bred in the forests. Gilbert de Umfraville granted to the monks the tenth of the foals of his breeding mares in the forest of Cottenshope, and the foals were allowed to follow their dam till they were two years old* A grant of lands often contained a right of Scalengas, in the mountains to which the cattle and flocks were taken to pasture during sum- mer, and returned to the low-lying grounds at the approach of winter. Gospatric, the Earl of Dunbar, bestowed such a privilege of pasturage on the abbey in the lands of Bothkel.f During the reign of William the Lion, Patrick, another Earl of Dunbar, granted the monks the same rights. William de Veterepont granted to them the scalengas in Lam- bermore, which belonged to Hornerdene.% The same practice is described by Cambden as existing in the wastes of Cumberland and Northumberland so late as 1594. He says, "The herdsmen were a sort of nomades, who lived in huts dispersed from each other, which were called Scheales or Schaelings."§ In all the mountain districts of Roxburghshire the

* Lib. de Calchou.

t lb. " Scalingas de Bothkel per rectas suas divisas." X Lib. de Calchou.

§ Scalingas signifies a mountain pasture, the herdsmen's huts, and secondarily, a hamlet.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 53

word shiel or shieling is to be found in the names of places.

In addition to the grants of wood for burning, which seems to have been the earliest fuel, the monks obtained grants of turves and pelts. The principal peatries of the monastery appear to have been in the territory of Gordon. Thomas de Gordon granted to the monks a right to take peats from that part of his peatry called Brun Moss, in the territory of Gordon, with land, for the conveniency of working the moss ; and also the liberty of pulling heath wherever they could in the territories of Thornditch and Gordon, and timber from his woods, on their agreeing to allow his bones to repose in the cemetery of Kelso. In carting the peats from this peatry, the men of the monks required to cross the rivulet of Blackburn on the lands of Melochstane, which being at times attended with danger, William de Hetely, the owner of the lands during the 13th century, granted leave to them to build a bridge over the stream, and to carry their peats and goods through his grounds beyond the bridge*

The monks were also the owners of a number of fisheries. Earl David granted to the monks of Selkirk and their men the right to fish in the waters around Selkirk, in the same manner and as fully as his own men. As king, he conferred the same right

* Lib. de Calchou.

54 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

on the monks of Kelso, and added the fishings in the Tweed from Broxmouth to the confluence of the Eden. Malcolm IV. issued a precept to his sheriffs and other officers in Lothian, and in his whole land, to allow the monks the half of the fat of the royal fishes which might be stranded on either shore of the Forth.* In the reign of David I., Bernard de Baliol granted to the monks at Kelso a fishing in the Tweed at Berwick, called Wudehorn Stell, and which was confirmed to them by the king. They had another fishing at the same place called North- Yare, and a fishing at Upsettlington.-f* In the 12th century John de Huntingdon, rector of Durisdeer, conferred on them a fishing on the Tweed called the Folestream. They had also a fishing in Renfrew. The monks were also possessed of Saltworks. David I. bestowed upon them a saltwork in the carse on the upper shore of the Forth. They had another saltwork at Lochkendeloch on the Sol way, granted by Roland the constable, with sufficient easements from his woods to sustain the pans.

The monks had a right from David I. to the tenth of all the bucks and does which his huntsmen and hounds should take. They had also a right to a certain portion of the cows, swine, and skins of beasts, which he received from Nithsdale; the skins and fat of beasts from Carrie ; the half of the skins

* Lib. de Calchou. t lb.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 55

and fat of the beasts slaughtered for his use on the north side of the Forth, with all the skins of the sheep and lambs; the tenth of the deer skins; and the tenth of the cheeses he was in use to receive from his estates in Tweeddale. The exercise of this right became in after times so inconvenient, that Alexander II., with the view of freeing his kitchen from the intrusion of the monks, granted to the monastery, in commutation thereof, one hundred shillings yearly out of the firms of Koxburgh.*

* The monks were not always safe visitants of a kitchen. In the neighbouring county of Northumberland, there exists a tradition of a monk, who, strolling abroad, arrived at the ancient house of Delavel, while the chief was absent on a hunting expedition, but expected back to dinner. Among the dishes preparing in the kitchen, was a pig, ordered expressly for Delavel's own eating, which suiting the palate of the monk, he cut off its head, reckoned by epicures the most delicious part of the animal, and, putting it into a bag, made the best of his way to the monastery. Delavel being informed at his return of the doings of the monk, which he looked upon as a personal affront, and being young and fiery, remounted his horse and set out in search of the stealer of his pig's head, whom overtaking, he so belaboured with his hunting gad that he was hardly able to crawl to his cell. The monk dying within a year and a day, although not from the beating, his brethren made it a handle to charge Delavel with his murder, who, before he got absolved, was obliged to make over to the monastery, in expiation of the deed, the manor of Elsig in the neighbourhood of Newcastle, with several other valuable estates; and by way of an amende honorable, to set up an obelisk on the spot where he corrected the monk Elsig afterwards became the summer

56 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

While princes and barons borrowed money from the monks " in their great need" and gave land in security, it was customary for many men to resign their lands into the hands of the monks, on obtain- ing an obligation for a decent provision in the abbey, where they were sure of amusement, instruction, and pardon. In 1311, Adam de Dowan, the elder, resigned his lands in Greenrig to the abbots and monks, and they obliged themselves to support him in victuals in their monastery, and to give him yearly a robe, or one merk sterling.* The abbot, in consideration of Eeginald de Curroch's resigning his lands of Fincurrochs, granted to him the lands of Little Kype, with decent maintenance in victuals for him and a boy within the monastery. The abbot granted to William Forman, during life, a corody of meat and drink, such as a monk received, with a chamber, bed, and clothes, and grass for a cow. Andrew, the son of the foresaid Reginald, got a pension of four merks a-year from the abbot, on his resigning to the monastery his tenement of Little Kype. The great of the land were anxious that their ashes should rest in the burial-ground of the abbey. Adam de Gordon granted important

retreat of the monks. The obelisk is said to have been ten feet high, and on the pedestal, the inscription, " 0 horror, to kill a man for a piggis heady The obelisk bears the name of the Monk's Stone.

* Lib. de Calchou.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 57

privileges for interment in the cemetery; and Margaret, the natural daughter of William the Lion, who married Eustace de Vesci, gave lands in Moll to the monks, to be received with her husband and their heirs into the fraternity of the monks.* In 1203, William de Vetrepont relinquished every claim he had against the monks, in consideration of their services in bringing his father's bones out of England, and burying them in the cemetery. Earl Henry, David's son, lies in this graveyard.-)- The abbots enjoyed the wardship of the heirs of their vas- sals, which was the source of great patronage and profit. Hugh, the abbot of Kelso, from 1 236 to 1 248, granted to Emma, the widow of Thomas de Bosco, the custody of her son and heir till he should come of age, "cum maritagu" of her son, she paying L.20.J The monks exported their skins, wool,§ and corn at Berwick, with the horse and carts of their husbandmen and cottagers, who brought in return coals, salt, and wine, &c. for the use of the monastery. When Berwick was in the hands of the English king in 1369, David II. erected Dunbar into a port, and declared it to be co-extensive with the Earldom

* Lib. de Calchou.

t Noticed in charter of William de Vetrepont to the abbey.

X Lib. de Calchou.

§ The usual mode of packing wool in Teviotdale during the period alluded to, was by the sack, which contained twenty-six stones. By a statute of David II. each sack of wool paid a duty of one penny

58 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

of March, and to be the port for Teviotdale so long as Berwick remained in the power of the English. Edward I. was anxious that the men of Teviotdale should use the port of Berwick, and granted protec- tion to them, and all the rights and privileges which they had previously enjoyed.

Besides the granges, farms, and other possessions in Eoxburghshire, which will be found under the localities in which they were situated, they had pro- perty spread over the shires of Selkirk, Berwick, Peebles, Lanark, Dumfries, Ayr, and Edinburgh. In Selkirkshire, David granted to the monks whom he had placed at Selkirk the church of his castle, on the condition that the abbot and his successors should be chaplains to him and his successors. The king also granted to the abbey many parcels of land in the forest, but, being inconveniently situated, Mal- colm IV. conjoined the whole, and excambed them with lands lying near the town. All the lands of the abbot were let in husbandlands of a bovate each, with right of common pasturage for a certain number of beasts. He had also many cot- tages with crofts, containing each nearly an acre of land. About the end of the 13th century, the monks had at Selkirk, in demesne, sl carrucate and a-half of land, which rented Jfor ten merks, fifteen husband- lands, each containing an oxgate, which rented for 4s., and the usual services sixteen cottages, with ten acres of land, one of which rented for 2s.,

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 59

and the other fifteen for Is. and services. The abbot had three brewhouses, which rented at 6s. 8d. each, and a corn mill, which rented at five merks yearly. Out of their demesne, they had thirty acres separately rented at 5s., and four acres at 6s. yearly. Alexander II. granted to the abbot of Kelso sixteen acres of land on both sides of the Ettrick, for the perpetual repair of the bridge of Ettrick. These lands are known by the name of the Briglands at the present day. The abbot held his court at the bridge over the Ettrick. In Berwickshire, in the terri- tory of Waderley, the monks had, during the 12th century, five acres of tofts and crofts and five acres of arable land, with common of pasture for 100 sheep and forty cattle, with their lambs and calves, till three years old, granted to them by Gilbert, the son of Adam of Home, During the 13th century, Andrew, the son of the late Gilbert, granted to the monks a carrucate of land, which he had bought in the terri- tory of Wester Gordon, and three acres of meadow in the lordship of Gordon, with common of pasture for five score of young cattle and 400 wedders, wheresoever the cattle or sheep of the lord of the manor pastured without the corn and meaclowland.* During the days of David I., Richard de Gordon granted to the monks of Kelso and to the church of

* The carrucate of land and privileges rented for two merks.

60 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

St. Michael at Gordon, in free alms, a piece of land adjacent to the churchyard at Gordon; an acre of land in Todlaw; an acre of meadow in Hundley- strother ; and whatever chaplain the monks placed in the church should have the pleasure of pasturage within his territory of Gordon, as his own men enjoyed the same. In the state furnished by the abbey to Robert I., they valued the church at L.20, and added that they had at that place half-a-carrucate of land pertaining to the church, with pasture for 1 00 young cattle and 400 sheep, and a toft whereon to build a mansion-house for the chaplain. In Greenlaw, Earl Gospatrick granted in 1147, to the monks of Kelso, the church of Greenlaw, with the chapel of Lambdene. Patrick, brother of Earl Waldave, while he confirmed the munificence of his father, gave them the right of pasture within the manor of Greenlaw for 100 sheep and oxen, 4 cows, and 1 work-horse. William, his son, added two tofts and crofts in the town, with other lands ; and in con- sideration of these grants, leave was given for the erection of a private chapel in Greenlaw, on assur- ance being given that the mother church should not suffer thereby. At Mellerstones, they had a carrucate of land, with common of pasture, and other easements, within the territory. In Halyburton, David, the son of Truck, gave them, in 1176, within his vill, the church with two bovates of land, and some tofts and crofts, which was confirmed by his son Walter, and, in the

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 61

reign of Alexander III., by his great-grandson Philip. This Philip was the first who was called de Halyburg- ton. At Fogo, the monks got the church of that place from Gospatrick, in 1147, with a carrucate of land, confirmed by Malcolm IV., William the Lion, and approved of by Roger, the Bishop of St. An- drews. William, his grandson, added the mansion possessed by John the Dean within the adjacent croft and contiguous land, reaching southward to Greenrig, besides the lands which John the Dean enjoyed with the church. During the days of David I., the church of Langton was bestowed on the monks by Eoger de Ow, a follower of Earl Henry, which was confirmed by his successor, William de Vetre- pont, who added the lands of Coleman' s-flat, in the same parish. Allan the constable gave them five ploughgates of land in Oxton, with easements, as a composition for revenues which they had out of Gal- way. In Horndean, Vetrepont gave them two acres of meadow, called Hollenmedu. In the time of Robert I., their property had increased to half-a- ploughgate, with pasture for 100 ewes, 6 oxen, 2 cows, and 2 horses, along with the lord's cattle. In Symprine, they got from Hye of that place the church with a toft and croft, and eighteen acres of land, under reservation of Thor the archdeacon's liferent. At Spertildon, they had a grange which they laboured with two ploughs; they had pasture for fifty score of ewes, twenty score of wedders,

62 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

forty plough cattle, and great herds of swine. On this grange they had sixteen cottages for their herds- men, labourers, and their families. They had here a brewhouse to supply the wants of the villagers, which rented at 6s. At Bondington, they had two carru- cates of land, with two tofts and common rights, all which rented at six merks. In 1370, Nicholas Moyses gave them his right in his cottages, with a garden, which Tyoch, the wife of Andrew, held of him. In Tweedmou, they had three acres of land, and a house with a spring, for which they got 20s. yearly. In Haddingtonshire, Allan, the son of Walter the steward, confirmed by a charter a lease by his men of Innerwick to the monks of Kelso for 33 years, from Martinmas, 1290, of certain woods and pastures in that place for 20s., free of all services, " inward or de outward/' In Humbie, Sir Eobert de Keith, the Marshal of Scotland, granted to the monks leave to build a mill on the lands, with a right for their work oxen, ploughs, and carts, to pass and repass over his lands. During the reign of William the Lion, the monks obtained the advowson of the church of Pencaithland from Everard de Pencaithland. In the time of Malcolm IV., Simon Fraser granted to the monks the church of Keith, with the whole wood from the southern side of the rivulet which runs near the church, with pertinents and other privileges. A dispute arose between the monks and the marshal as to the tribute he was

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 63

bound to pay for the church of Keith Hervie, and so serious did it become, that the Pope delegated Joceline, Bishop of Glasgow, and the Abbot of Paisley, to settle the controversy, which they did by fixing the tribute at 20s. yearly out of the living, the marshal obliging himself to part with the church only to the monks. In the reign of William the Lion, they had a toft and other lands in Haddington, at a rent of lOd. yearly. In Edinburghshire, the monks acquired the church and lands of Dodinston during the reign of William the Lion; but the charter does not mention the name of the person whose bounty added so largely to the possessions of the abbey. The lands were erected into a barony, and the abbots appointed their baron baillie, who administered justice within the boundaries. Owing to the distance of the lands from Kelso, they were usually let on lease. About the beginning of the 13th century, the lands of Easter Duddingston, with the half of the peatry of Camberun, were let to Reginald de Bosco for 10 merks yearly. Thomas, the son of Reginald, held the lands for the same rent. In the reign of Robert I., the abbot let the half of the manor of Wester Duddingston to Sir William de Tushelaw for 12 merks of yearly rent. In 1466, Cuthbert Knightson held part of the lands of Duddingston in fee for the yearly rent of 4 merks. This barony remained with the monks till the Reformation, and, after successive changes, it was

()4 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

purchased by James, Earl of Abercorn, in 1745, from the Duke of Argyle. In the city of Edin- burgh, the monks held a toft, situated between the West Port and the Castle, on the left of the entrance to the city. They had a tenement in the town, which rented at 1 6d. per annum, but as to its situa- tion, the rent-roll is silent. They had also a piece of ground, which lay beside the Abbey of Holy- rood, let to John Clerk* in 1492. In Peebleshire, King William confirmed to them the church of the Castle of Peebles, " capellum Castelle de Peebles " —with a carrucate of land adjacent to it, and ten shillings yearly granted by his grandfather out of the firms of the burgh, to found a chapel in which to say mass for the soul of his son, Earl Henry. The church of Innerleithen was given to them by David I., to which Malcolm IV. added a toft, and because the body of his son rested there the first night after his decease, he commanded that the church should have the same power of sanctuary as was enjoyed by Wedale and Tyningham. In 1232, William, the Bishop of Glasgow, confirmed the grant of the church to the monks. They had also a carrucate of burgage lands near the church, which rented for 12s. per acre. At Hopecailzie, they had three acres of land, which rented at Is. per acre. Ralph de Clerc gave the monks the church of St.

* Acta. Dom. Coil p. 264.

EOXBUEGHSHIEE, ETC. 65

Cuthbert of Galedoure: Caldour, with the tithes of the mill, on payment of ten merks annually to the vicar. King William confirmed to them the church of Cambusnethan in Clydesdale, together with the tithes of the profits of his mills. Dunsyre church was granted by Helias, the brother of Josceline, Bishop of Glasgow. Wicius gave the monks the church of Wiston, of which the church of Symington was a dependency. Thankerton was conferred by Anneis de Brus. Kobert de Londonius, brother of King Alexander, granted to the monks a part of his land of Kadihu, with pasture for ten cows and ten oxen. The convent had also an annual pension of 40s. from the church of Lynton, and they had the church of Craufurd John. Bobert I. granted to them the church of Eglismalescho, in Clydesdale, in 1321, as a compensation for their sufferings and losses during the wars of the succession.* They had an annual pension of 10 merks out of the living of Campsie. William the Lion confirmed to the monks the church of Gutter. Brice Douglas gave the con- vent the church of Birnie in the beginning of the 13th century. In Dumfeies they got the church thereof, and the church of St. Thomas, with lands, tofts, and tithes, from King William, and four acres of land. They had the church of Morton, Close-

l

* Robertson's Index, iii. 3. VOL. III. F

66 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

burn, Staplegorton, and the church of Wilbalding- ton, and the patronage of the church of Lesingibi, Cumberland, confirmed by Pope Innocent III.

In 1144, David I. granted to the abbey the church and whole territory of Lesmahago, for founding a cell for monks from Kelso, and Bishop John of Glas- gow freed it and its monks from Episcopal dues and subjection. It was dedicated to the Virgin and St. Machutus. The festival of the saint was on the 15th November. The cell had a right of sanctuary to every one who came within its four crosses to escape peril to life and limb.* In 1296, Alexander II. granted to the prior and convent to hold their lands in free forest. The prior had a seat in Parliament. In 1335, John, the brother of Edward III., burned the abbey while on his way to Perth by the western marches.

Colonies were sent from Kelso to the foundations of Kilwinning, Aberbrothick, and Lindores.

The revenues of the abbey of Kelso were, at the Eeformation, in money, i?3716, Is. 2d.; 9 chal- ders of wheat; 106 chalders, 12 bolls, of bear ; 112 chalders, 12 bolls, and 3 firlots of meal; 4 chalders and 11 bolls of oats. From these revenues it will be seen that the abbot of Kelso was more opulent than most bishops in Scotland.

The property of the abbot and convent was not liable to be poinded or distrained.

* Lib. de Calchou, p. 9.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 67

The Annals of the Abbey and Town. In 1147, Herbert,* the first abbot of Kelso, was raised to the see of Glasgow, and was succeeded in his office by Ernold, who, in 1160, was appointed bishop of St. Andrews.*!- John, the precentor of the abbey a man of a very ambitious character was the next abbot. J In 1165, he obtained a mitre from the Pope. He also got himself named first in the rolls of the Scottish Parliament. The Archbishop of York having claimed the supremacy of the Scottish Church, was opposed with spirit by the abbot, who refused to obey a summons to meet him at the Castle of Norham. In the end the question was referred to the Pope, who decided against Roger of York, and declared the Scottish Church independent of any other, save Rome. Flattered by the many favours conferred on him, the abbot claimed precedence of the other reli- gious houses in Scotland, which was not finally settled till 1420, when a decision was given in favour of St. Andrews. About the same time a dispute arose between him and the monastery of Tyrone, the abbot of Kelso claiming superiority over the abbot of that house, from which the con- vent of Kelso had its origin. John died in 1180, when Osbert, the prior of Lesmahago, was elected to the office.§ While he was abbot, Scotland was

* Chron. Mail., pp. 66, 73-76, 77-79. t lb. pp. 73, 78. X lb. pp. 77, 90. § lb. pp. 99-92, 105.

68 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

interdicted by Pope Alexander III, which was after- wards removed by his successor, Lucius III., who also conferred upon the abbey of Kelso the privilege of exemption from excommunication proceeding from any other quarter than the apostolic see ; and though the whole kingdom should be interdicted, they might worship in the church with closed doors, and in a low voice, without ringing of bells.* Dur- ing Osbert's time, a controversy arose between the monks of Kelso and Melrose as to the boundary be-

* It required no ordinary resolution to withstand an inter- dict. The announcement of the interdict was usually made at midnight, by the funereal toll of the church bells ; where- upon the entire clergy might presently be seen issuing forth in silent procession, by torch-light, to put up a last prayer of deprecation before the altars, for the guilty community. Then the consecrated bread that remained over was burnt; the crucifixes, and other sacred images, were veiled up ; the relics of the saints carried down into the crypts ; every me- mento of holy cheerfulness and peace was withdrawn from view. Lastly, a papal legate ascended the steps of the altar, arrayed in penitential vestments, and formally proclaimed the interdict. From that moment divine service ceased in all the churches ; their doors were locked up, and only in the bare porch might the priest, dressed in mourning, exhort his flock to repentance. Kites, in their nature joyful, which could not be dispensed with, were invested in sorrowful attri- butes ; so that baptism could only be administered in secret, and marriage celebrated before a tomb instead of an altar. The administration of confession and communion was forbid- den. To the dying man alone might the viaticum, which the priest had first consecrated in the gloom and solitude of the morning dawn, be given ; but extreme unction and burial in

EOXBUKGHSHIKE, ETC. 69

tween the lands of the barony of Bolclen and the property of Melrose. The matter was remitted by Pope Celestine to King William, who heard the parties at Melrose in 1202, and thereupon directed an inquisition to be made by the honest and ancient men of the district.* In 1204, the parties appeared again before the king, in his court at Selkirk, when judgment was given in favour of the monks of Kelso, and a charter granted by him, in which the whole proceedings were recited. Osbert died in 1203.

holy ground were denied him. Moreover, the interdict, as may naturally be supposed, seriously affected the worldly, as well as religious, cares of society. (Life of Aidan, vol. iv. p. 36.) Such was the nature of the interdict under which Scot- and lay for above three years, in consequence of King Wil- liam resisting the pope's interference in the appointment of a successor to Richard, Bishop of St. Andrews. The chaplain elected the learned John Scott, and the king nominated Hugh, his own chaplain. Roger, the Archbishop of York, legatine of the pope, excommunicated William, and interdicted the kingdom. The pope supported the archbishop, but William remained firm, and swore, " by the arm of St. James, that, while he lived, John Scott should not be Bishop of St. An- drews." The legate then excommunicated Morville the con- stable, and Prebenda the secretary. The king banished every person who obeyed the pope and legate. During the contest, both pope and archbishop died. A compromise was effected between Pope Lucius and William; both the prelates resigned their claims, and the pope, with the consent of the king, ap- pointed Hugh to St. Andrews, and John to Dunkeld. Eng- land lay under an interdict from 1207 to 1213. (Hoveden, 599; Fordun, i. vi. c. 35, 36; Chron. Mail. 89-92.) * " Per probos et antiquos homines patria."

70 THE HISTOEY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

Geoffeey, the prior, was raised to the dignity of abbot, and filled the office for three years * Richaed de Cave was elected abbot, but died in two years.-)* Heney, the prior, was elected by the monks in June, 1 208.J Next year, the Bishop of Rochester, fright- ened from England by the fulminations of the Pope, found an asylum in Kelso Abbey; and, though he lived at his own expense, the King of Scotland sent him 80 chalders of wheat, 60 of malt, and 80 of oats a proof that, in that age, corn was of more value than money.§ Henry was at the general council at Rome in 1215, for the purpose of concocting mea- sures against the Waldenses, who preserved, in their remote habitations, the pure truths of Christianity, and but for the cruel measures adopted to suppress it, would soon have overthrown the papal tyranny. At this assembly there were 1283 prelates, 673 of whom were bishops, including the bishops of St. Andrews, Glasgow, and Moray. The council sat fifteen days, at the end of which the abbot of Kelso returned to his abbacy. The abbot died on October 5, 1218. Richaed, the prior, was called to fill the chair; he died in 1221. || Heebeet Maunsel, the secretary, succeeded; and, after filling the office for

* Chron. Mail. p. 105. t lb. pp. 106, 107.

X lb. pp. 107-121, 134.

§ lb. p. 109. Gilbert Glenville was at this time Bishop of Rochester.

|| lb. pp. 134, 138.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 71

fifteen years, he resigned on September 2, on the day of the nativity of St. Mary, when Hugh de Maunsel was installed ;* but Otho, the Pope's legate, in 1239, compelled Herbert to resume the mitre, and Hugh being a mild, peaceable man quietly resigned his pastoral charge.-)- The Chroni- cler of Melrose has the death of Hugh recorded as taking place in 1248.J About this time the abbot and convent, and their successors, received authority from the Pope to excommunicate known thieves and invaders of their estates, and those guilty of doing evil to the Church. The sentence was to be pro- nounced with lighted candles and ringing of bells, on a Sunday or holiday, and they had power to re- peat the sentence every year, the Thursday before Easter, the Feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin, and other solemn occasions. § Eobert de Smalhame, one of the monks, was appointed abbot,

* Chron. Mail. pp. 147, 148: "Item dompnus Herbertus abbas calcovensis in die Nativitates beata Maria baculum cum metri super magus altere possut et taliter pastorali cure valedixit."

t lb. p. 150. % lb. p. 177.

§ The form of excommunication was by the priest using the following words : " By authority of Almighty God, the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost, and the blessed Mary, the mother of God, and all the saints, I excommunicate, anathematize, and put out of the confines of the Holy Mother Church, A. B., that evil-doer, with his abettors and accomplices; and unless they repent and make satisfaction, thus may their light be put out before Him that liveth for ever and ever ;" and at

72 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

in 1248* In 1256, Alexander, and Margaret, his queen, made a grand procession from Roxburgh Castle to the abbey of Kelso, where the King of England was royally entertained.-)- The abbot died in 1258, and was succeeded by Patrick,;}; one of the fraternity, who retained the mitre for two years, when he was forced to resign in favour of the in- triguing Henry de Lambeden, the chamberlain, whose conduct was such, that his death, in 1275, of apoplexy, as he sat at table, was looked upon by the inmates of the convent, and others connected with the monastery, as a punishment for his wicked ambi- tion. They refused to watch his corpse, and interred him on the same day on which he died.§ Richard was the next abbot. In 1285, he presided at a court at Reddon, when Hugh de Revedon resigned all the lands held by him in the baronies of Reve- don and Home, which had been purchased by the con- vent. || The abbot seems to have kept the writs and titles of the nobility. In 1288, William de Duglas gave an acknowledgment to the abbot, that he had

the same time taking lighted torches, and trampling them out on the ground while the bells were ringing. Excommu- nication does not seem to have produced the least effect on the Border mosstroopers. They entertained greater fear for the doings of the Justiciaires at Jedburgh than any monkish ceremony.

* Chron. Mail. p. 177. t lb. p. 181.

t lb. pp. 184, 185-189. § lb. p. 189.

il Lib. de Calchou.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 73

received from him all his charters which were in the abbot's custody.* When Bruce and Baliol disputed the succession to the crown at the death of Kino- Alexander, Richard was chosen by Baliol to support his pretensions. In L296, the abbot was received into the peace of Edward I., and the lands and pro- perty belonging to the convent were restored.-f* About this time Walron was abbot. In July 22, 1301, Edward I. was at Kelso on his way north.;}; The mitre was next worn by an Englishman of the name of Thomas de Durham, it is said, by usurpa- tion during these perilous times, till Robert Bruce was finally established on his throne by the fortunate result of the battle of Bannockburn, when William de Alyncrom was made abbot. § In 1316, an ex- change was made of the church of Cranston for Nenthorn and chapel of Little Newton, with the Bishop of St. Andrews. William de Dalgernock was next abbot. He was preceptor of David II., the young king, and when the King of England invaded Scotland in 1333, on the pretence of sup- porting Baliol, David and the abbot retired into France, where they remained nine years, and the monastery was in charge of a warden. In 1333, Edward granted letters of protection to the abbey, || and when Baliol made over the counties of Roxburgh,

* Lib. de Calchou. t Rotuli Scotise, vol. i. p. 8.

X lb. vol. i. p. 53. § Lib. de Calchou.

|| Rotuli Scotiae, vol. i. p. 268.

74 THE HISTOEY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

Berwick, and Dumfries, the abbot of Kelso was one of those who witnessed the degradation. In 1344, David II. granted leave to the monks to cut wood in the forests of Jedburgh and Selkirk, to repair the convent. He also granted to the monks that they should possess the town of Kelso, with its pertinents, the barony of Bolden and the lands of Redden, with their pertinents, with exclusive jurisdiction of jus- ticiars, sheriffs, with other privileges.* William was abbot about 1354. In 1366, protection was granted to the abbey and convent by the English king.-f* In 1368, Edward III. granted liberty to the abbot and convent of Kelso to buy victuals in Eng- land for themselves and families, in consequence of the miserable state to which they were reduced by the war. J In 1373, the same king granted protec- tion to the abbot, the monks, and the lands and possessions of the convent. In 1378, Richard I. granted protection to the monks of Kelso, and their convent, and lands, wherever situated. § Pateick is seen acting as abbot from the year 1398 to 1406. About 1428, William was abbot. Another Wil- liam was abbot in 1435, and continued so till 1444. In 1460, Roxburgh Castle and town were wrested from the English, after having continued for more than 100 years in their possession; but it was pur- chased by the death of the king, who was killed by

* Reg. Mag. Sig. p. 190, No. 26.

t Eotuli Scotise, vol. i. p. 902. % lb. vol. i. p. 924.

§ lb. vol. ii. p. 8.

ROXBUKGHSHIKE, ETC. 75

the bursting of a cannon. Immediately after the castle was taken, Prince James was solemnly crowned in the abbey church of Kelso, in the seventh year of his age. Allan appears as abbot between 1464 and 1466. Robert was next abbot, and George filled the office in 1476. After James III. was slain at Bannockburn-mill, his son James was crowned in the abbey of Kelso in 1488. In 1490, Henry VI granted special letters of protection and license from the abbot and convent of Kelso, including the town of Kelso, the town of Redden, Sprouston, Wester Softlaw, and the barony of Bolden, and all their lands and tenements, servants, corn, and cattle, and all their goods, moveable and immoveable. License was also granted to one or two monks to go with their servants into England, and buy lead, wax, wine, and other merchandise, for the use of the convent, and also to go to the wardens or lieutenants of the borders, and demand restitution of their goods.* In 1 493, Robert, the abbot of this house, was appointed by the Three Estates one of the auditors of causes and complaints. Henry, the prior, was famed for his great learning. In 1 5 1 1 , Andrew Stewart, bishop, had the abbey granted to him in trust.f Four years after, the famous Dand Ker of Fernieherst marched to Kelso, assaulted the abbey, took it, and turned the superior, one of the Cessford family, out of doors.

* Kotuli Scotise, vol. ii. p. 494.

+ About this time the kings were beginning to encroach on the privileges of the Church.

76 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

It is said that this assault took place the night after the battle of Flodden. Thomas Ker, the brother of Dand Ker, was the next abbot. In 1520, commis- sion was given to the abbot to meet with Dacre, warden of the marches, at Heppethgate-head, on the Colledge-water, and a truce was concluded till Janu- ary following ; at that time the abbot and Ker of Cessford met the English warden at Redden, when they agreed to prorogate the truce till the last day of June. The Governor of Scotland was then anxious to conclude a truce, but Henry rejected all offers of peace, and prepared to march into Scotland. He also ordered all the French and Scots to be im- prisoned, their goods seized, themselves marked with a cross and sent home to Scotland. In the end of July, 1522, two of Shrewsbury's captains, the Lords Ross and Dacre, pillaged and burnt the town. The men of Teviotdale flew to arms, and amply re- venged the loss they had sustained. Next year, Dacre, one of Surrey's captains, paid a visit to Kelso, and reduced the monastery and town to ashes. The monks were forced to leave Kelso and take shelter in the neighbouring villages. In 1526, the abbot assisted in concluding a truce for three years. At the death of Thomas Ker, James Stewart, an ille- gitimate son of James V. by Elizabeth Schaw, was, while in minority, made commendator of the abbey. The abbot was a pupil of George Buchanan. In 1 542, the Duke of Norfolk entered Scotland by the

R0XBURGHSH1KE, ETC. 77

river Tweed, burning and destroying everything that fell in his way. No place was held sacred. The town of Kelso and the abbey, which had been par- tially repaired since Dacre's inroad, were again re- duced to ashes. Two years later, an inroad was made by Bowes and Laiton, and in 1545, the Earl of Hertford attacked the abbey. Three hundred men retired into it, and made an obstinate resistance, but were forced to yield, and were nearly all slain or taken prisoners. Next year, the abbey was defended by thirty footmen against Eurie, but taken. In the report of Eurie to the English king, two " bastille houses" are referred to as being in the town. In June following, when the garrison of Wark made an incursion into the town, the church was defended by sixteen men, who had builded them a strength in the old walls of the steeple. The abbey afforded a shelter to a few monks till 1560, when they were expelled by the fanatical mob, the images broken, and all its internal furniture and decorations de- stroyed. In 1558, Mary of Lorraine gave the com- mendatorship of Kelso and Melrose to her brother the Duke of Guise, on the abbot being slain by his own relation, one of the Kers of Cessford. Sir John Maitland was temporarily commendator. Bothwell next got the abbey in trust, by ex- changing Coldingham for Kelso with Maitland. On the 9th of November, Queen Mary arrived at Kelso from Jedburgh. Next day she held a council, and

78 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

on the 11th left with the design of viewing Berwick, attended by her court and about 1000 horsemen, belonging to the border shires. She travelled by Langton and Wedderburn, and on the 15th looked upon Berwick from Halidon-hill* On the 6th of April, 1569, a remarkable bond was agreed to and subscribed at Kelso by the inhabitants of the sheriff- doms of Berwick, Koxburgh, Selkirk, and Peebles, and provosts and baillies of burghs and towns within the bounds, whereby the parties bound and obliged themselves to the king's majesty and his dear cousin James, Earl of Murray, Lord Abernethie, regent, to concur together to resist the rebellious people of the country of Liddesdale, and other thieves inhabiting Ewisdale, Anandale, and especially persons of the surnames of "Armestrong, Eliot, Niksoun, Croser, Littell, Batesoun, Thomsoun, Irwing, Bell, Johnnes- toun, Glendonyng, Routlaige, Hendersoun, and Scottis, of Ewisdaill," and other notorious thieves, wherever they dwell, and their wives, bairns, tenants, and servants, that none of them would at any time thereafter reset, supply, or intercommune with any of the said thieves, their wives, bairns, or servants, or give them meat, drink, house, or harbour, or suffer any meat, drink, or victuals, to be brought, had, or carried to them, forth or through the lands, baillieries, towns, and bounds, where they could

* Life of the Scottish Queen, vol. i. p. 193.

79

hinder; nor should they tryst or have intelligence with them in private or apart, without knowledge or leave of the warden obtained to that effect : or suffer them to resort to markets or trysts through the bounds : nor permit them, their wives, bairns, tenants, or servants, to dwell, remain, or abide, or to pasture their flocks of sheep or cattle upon any lands outwith Liddesdale, except such as within eight days of the date of the bond found responsible sureties to the wardens of the marches and their clerks, that they would reform all enormities com- mitted by them in time bypast, and keep good rule in time coming, and be obedient to the laws when called upon : All others not finding the said se- curity within the said space were to be pursued to the death with fire and sword, and all other kind of hostility, and exposed in prey and all things in their possession to the men of war, as open and known enemies to God, the king, and the common good, without favour, assurance, or friendship : all kind- ness, bonds, promises, assurances, and conditions that had been entered into with any of them in time bygone, before the date of the bond, were to be re- nounced, as the subscribers should answer to God, and on their duty and allegiance to the king and regent. In case any of the parties to the bond failed in any part of the premises, or revealed not the con- traveners thereof, if known, they were to be punished in terms of the general bond and pains contained

80 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

therein. As also, in case in the resistance or pur- suit of any of the said thieves it should happen that any of them be slain and burnt, they should ever esteem the quarrel and deadly feud equal to all, and should never agree with the said thieves, but with one consent and advice. In the meantime, the subscribers bound themselves to take a sincere and true part ilk ane with the other, and specially should assist the laird of Buccleuch and other lairds nearest to the said thieves. There are three columns of signatures to the bond. The first contains the names of " Sir Nicholas Rutherfurd of Hundoley, knyt. ; Jhone Rutherfurd of Hunthill; John Mow of yt Ilk; Richard Rutherford, provost of Jedbur1; James Scott, baillie of Selkirk ; James Gledstanes of Cok- law; Wat Scot, in Bellhauch; Wat Scot of Tusche- law; Hector Turnbull, tutor of Mynto; Cuthbert Cranstoun of Thirlestan Manis; Robert Scot, baillie of Hawyke." The second column "Andrew Ker; Gilbert Ker of Prinsydeloch ; John Edmonstoune of yat Ilk, Knyt; William Douglas of Cavers; Jhone Haldane ; Thomas Turnbull of Bederowll ; Richard Rutherford of Edgerstone; Alexander Cokburn; Robert Scot of Edilstane; Thomas Makdowell/' The signatures on the two first columns are auto- graphs, but the third column is all written in the same hand " Alexr L. Home ; Walter Ker of Cess- ford ; Bukclewch, Knyt ; Thomas Ker of Eernhirst ; William Ker; Patrick Murray of Eaulahill; Walter

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 81

Ker of Dolphinstone ; Andro x X X ; Andro Ker of Fa x X X ; T. Cranstoune of yt Ilk ; Thomas Ker of Nether Howdane.*

This bond certainly discloses a sad state of Roxburghshire in the beginning of the reign of James VI. Without the aid of the powerful barons, the king and his lieutenants could do little to maintain rule on the Borders, as the clans, by means of their signal-fires, could gather the country in an incredibly short space, rendering success on the part of the royal troops impossible. The king had often to resort to stratagem to secure the persons of some of the leading clans before entering on an expedi- tion to the Border land, to enforce the law among his unruly subjects. By means of such bonds, the clans were kept in some degree of control, although the numerous entries in the criminal records show that the obligations in the bonds were seldom faithfully implemented. In 1569, the Regent Murray obtained from the boy Francis Steuart, his nephew, and William Lumisden, the rector of Cleish, his administrator, a grant to him and his heirs, in fee-firm, of the whole estates of the abbey of Kelso, comprehending the town of Kelso, and many lands, mills, fishings, and other property in the four shires of

* The original of this document is deposited in the General Register House, but a copy of it is given in Pitcairn's Trials, vol. iii. pp. 394 396.

VOL. III. G

82 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

Roxburgh, Berwick, Dumfries and Peebles, which was confirmed by a charter under the Great Seal, on the 10th December following.* In October, 1585; the Earls of Angus and Marr, the Master of Glammis, and others their associates, banished to England, came to Kelso, and were received at Floors, the laird of Cessford's house, "f Here they were joined by Bothwell and Home, the lairds of Cessford and Coldingknowes, and many of the barons of Teviot- dale and Merse. The inhabitants of Kelso seem to have assisted Bothwell, for in May, 1593, they, with the exception of William Lauder, came in his Majesty's will for the treasonable reset of the Earl, and found security that they would satisfy his Majesty in " siluer" provided the sum did not exceed 2000 merks. The king's will was, that he freely pardoned the "haill inhabitants" and their posterity, but ordained the town to make payment to the treasurer of 1700 merks money, and to find caution, acted in the books of Secret Council, that they should not intercommune with Bothwell, or his accomplices, in time coming, under a penalty of two thousand pounds.^ On Bothwell being attainted in 1592, the abbey of Kelso and the priory of Cold- ingham were annexed to the Crown. The whole property of the abbey was ,then conferred on Sir

* Privy Seal, Reg. xxxviii. 106.

+ Meuioires of Scotland, p. 101.

£ Pitcairn's Criminal Trials, vol. i. pp. 291-2.

EOXBUEGHSHIEE, ETC. 83

Robert Ker of Cessford, a great favourite at court, and who had, in 1590, been created a peer, with the title of Lord Roxburghe. Twenty of the churches and advowsons thereof were surrendered to the king in 1639. These estates are now enjoyed by the Duke of Roxburghe. In the spring of 1645, Kelso was almost wholly consumed by an accidental fire, by which the inhabitants were reduced to such a state of distress as to render it necessary for the neighbourhood to furnish supplies of victuals for their support, which was done with a liberal hand. In the months of April and May, 227 bolls of corn were sent, " to relieve the honest and poor distressed householders in Kelso." Of this supply, Teviotdale sent 184 bolls, the Merse 45 bolls; to the supplies of corn were added 34 horse-loads of bread, 43 hogsheads of ale, six loads of salt-herrings, eight stones butter, money i?414 Scots. No apology, it is thought, is needed for giving the names of the chief contributors. The first name on the list is that of Robert Pringle of Stitchel, who gave 11 bolls of oatmeal ; Lady Linton, 1 boll 2 firlots ; next follow the names but not the donations of Sir William Scott of Mertoun ; John Ker of Hadden ; Sir William Douglas of Cavers ; the laird of Hunt- hill ; the laird of Gateshaw ; the laird of Fairning- ton ; Mr James Mather ; Sir James Ker of Gateside ; Sir Walter Riddell ; Earl of Lothian ; town of Jedburgh; George Pringle of Craigs, Carchester;

8 1 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

Sir William Ker of Cavers ; the laird of Greenhead ; Sir Andrew Ker of Primside; the four Bells of Plenderleath ; Sir William Elliot of Stobs ; town of Dunse; John Hume of Ninewells; the laird of Tofts; John Hume of Crumstains; laird of Wedderburn.* This fire seems to have dwelt long in the memories of the inhabitants, as occasional entries in the court- books show. In November, 1723, the baillie issued the following prohibition : " These are to advertise all the inhabitants who are concerned in making malt, or carrying on their affairs in malt-kilns, that they no way presume to kindle fires after gloamin, or under night at any time, nor in the day-time, when the wind blows high, under pain of being summarily imprisoned."

In September, 1645, Montrose was at Kelso, on the invitations of the Earls Koxburghe and Home, but when he had arrived within about twelve miles of them, they surrendered their houses and them- selves to General Leslie, who, on hearing of the battle of Kilsythe, left the Scottish army before Hereford, and, at the head of 5000 men, marched northward by Berwick and Tranent, with the view of intercepting Montrose at the passages of the Forth ; but on arriving at Tranent, he got information that the Royalist troops were in the forest of Selkirk, on

* From a paper deposited in the museum of Kelso, extracted by Mr John Steuart, surgeon, from the original in the charter-chest of the Duke of Koxburghe.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 85

which he turned southward, and marched to Melrose by the river Gala. In the meantime, Montrose, although obliged to dismiss his Highlanders, and, deserted by those who had promised him assistance, resolved to pursue Leslie, and prevent him from gathering additional forces. On the 12th, the Royalist general left Kelso, and marched to Selkirk forest, in which he encamped his infantry, between the Ettrick and Yarrow, close to the junction of these rivers, the cavalry and himself taking up their quarters in Selkirk. Next morning the camp was surprised by the Covenanting general, and after a desperate struggle, the Royalist troops were routed with great slaughter.

In 1715, the Scottish rebels met those from Northumberland and Nithsdale at Kelso. The Highlanders were met by the Scots' horse at Ednam Bridge, and conducted into the town, in compliment to the bravery displayed by them in passing the Eirth. Next day Mr Paton preached in the abbey church to the soldiers, from Deut. xxi. 17, " The right of the first-born is his." A great number attended. In the afternoon a sermon was preached by a Mr William Irving, full of exhortations to his hearers to be zealous and steady in the course in which they were engaged. On the Monday the troops were drawn up in the market-place, while the proclamation was read, and a manifesto of the Earl of Marr, on which all the people assembled and

86 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

shouted "No union; no malt-tax; no salt-tax" The Highland army remained in Kelso till the Thursday following, during which time they drew the public revenues, excise customs, and taxes. While at Kelso, word was brought that General Carpenter had arrived at Wooler, intending to give them battle at Kelso next day. A council of war was held, at which the Earl of Winton urged the council to march to the west of Scotland, but the English leaders prevailed, and the army set out for England by way of Roxburgh. In 1718, the com- missioners of Oyer and Terminer sat at Kelso, to inquire into the treasons committed in 1715. Lawyers were sent from London to assist on an occasion so new in Scotland as trials for high treason, but all the artifices of the judges and lawyers could not overcome the firmness of the grand-jurors, and the presentments were negatived. On 4th November, 1745, Prince Charles arrived at Kelso, with a division of his army, consisting of 4000 foot and 1000 horse, and on the 6th he left the town and marched for Jedburgh.

Several persons have borne the surname of Kelso. Richard of Kelso is mentioned in a charter of Robert I. to Fergus of Ardrossan * Thomas of Kelso was, in 1365, admitted to the peace of Edward III., and license granted to him to dwell in any part of

* Reg. Mag. Sig. p. 10, No. 51.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 87

England.* Allan of Kelso, and several other merchants, got a safe-conduct in 1367 to go to England and trade.f

Flowris.J Floors.§ Fleurs.|| The palace of the Duke of Roxburghe occupies a lovely situation on the left bank of the river Tweed. The view, though limited, is beautiful, taking in the ruins of Roxburgh Castle, part of Teviot's fair vale, and all the lovely scenery where Tweed and Teviot meet. Sir Walter Scott, in writing of this locality, says that " the modern mansion of Fleurs, with its terrace, its woods, and its extensive lawn, forms altogether a kingdom for Oberon or Titania to dwell in, or any spirit who, before their time, might love scenery, of which the majesty, and even the beauty, impress the mind with a sense of awe, mingled with pleasure, "^f The palace was built in 1718, upon the site of an older house, greatly enlarged and beautified by the present possessor of the rich domain. The earliest notice of the house under the name of " Flowris " that I have met with is in 1 545, but it must have existed long before that time, and occupied by the monks of Kelso or some of their kindly tenants. A plan of the locality in 1739 shows three islets, com-

* Rotuli Scotiee, vol. i. p. 894. t lb. p. 919.

% Circa, 1545. § lb- 1585. || lb. 1772.

IT Demonology, p. 119.

88 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

prehending a considerable space, formed by the Tweed, in front of the palace. In Stobie's map of the county, executed in 1772, only one of these appear, about half-a-mile in length. Near the lower end of that anna is the site of a cross called the Fair- cross, and which gave a name to these islets. This Fair-cross is near the spot where, according to tra- dition, King James was killed while besieging Rox- burgh Castle in 1460. The writer of the old statistical account of the parish of Kelso, while treating of this locality, remarks,* " A holly-tree is said to stand on the spot where this happened, a little below Fleurs House. Near this tree stood a large village, which, from a cross that remained within these few years, was generally called the Fair- cross. But the probable origin of the name, as it has been handed down, though not generally known, is this : James II. 's Queen having very soon reached the spot where the lifeless body of her husband lay, is reported to have exclaimed, " There lies the fair corse; " whereupon it received the name of the fair corpse or corse, and in process of time the change from corse to cross was easily effected/' I doubt this derivation of the name of Fair-cross, and am inclined to think that the cross owes its origin to the erection of Broxfield into a barony, with right of market cross, in 1642. The name may receive further illus-

* Vol. x. p. 582. Article written by the late Dr Douglas.

ROXBUKGHSHIKE, ETC. 89

tration from the fact, that about this time the people of Kelso were anxious to have James' Fair held on the north side of the water, and many attempts were made to hold the fair at this place. The records of Jedburgh contain many acts ordering the burgesses to attend the fair of St. James in force, to support the authority of the magistrates, and to bring the bestial from the north to the south side of the river. Occasionally the flooded state of the river prevented persons and cattle passing to the south side, and the fair or market was held at Fair-cross, opposite to St. James' Fair-stead. In 1713, the fair, owing to the flood, was held for two days Saturday and Monday on the north side of the river, at this cross.* It may safely be inferred that Fair-cross derived its name from being the place where the market or fair was held, in the same way as the haugh on the south side of the river gets the name of Fair-green at the present day.

The woods around Fleurs are extensive and valu- able. A considerable portion of the wood, however, is not older than the end of the seventeenth century. In 1717, the baillie of the regality passed an act forbidding " the plucking of the haws from the thorns that defended the young plantations at Fleurs." On the forfeiture of Bothwell, his estates were divided among Buccleuch, Home, and Sir

* Burgh Court-Books.

90 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

Robert Ker of Cessford. Buccleuch got Crichton and Liddesdale; Home, Coldingham; and Cessford, the abbey of Kelso, with its lands and possessions. Sir Robert was distinguished for talent and courage, and while warden of the marches, did good service to his country.

The peerage writers say that John Ker, of the forest of Selkirk, who lived about 1358, was the founder of the house of Cessford and Roxburgh; that Henry, his son, was living about three years after; and Robert, supposed to be the son of Henry, got a charter of the lands of Auldtonburn, from Archibald, the fourth Earl of Douglas. Chalmers is of opinion that Andrew Ker of Altonburn, who married a daughter of Sir W. Douglas, the heritable sheriff of Teviotdale, was the founder, and died before 1450. It seems to me that these views are not well founded. Before 1385, John Ker was the owner of Altonburn and Nisbet in Teviotdale; at that date these lands were granted by Richard IT. of England to John Boraille.* It is probable that the Andrew Ker alluded to by Chalmers was the grand- son of John Ker of Altonburn and Nisbet, and son of the first owner of Cessford ; but he is wrong in supposing that the Andrew Ker who married the sheriff's daughter died before 1450. It was his father who obtained a confirmatory charter from the

* Eotuli Scotise, vol. ii. p. 75.

ROXBURGHSHIKE, ETC. 91

Earl of Douglas of the lands of Cessford, which for- merly belonged to the families of Oliphant and Cock- burn. In 1451, James II. granted Andrew Ker of Altonburn "all and each his lands of the barony of Auldroxburgh, with pertinents/' for payment of one silver penny at Whitsunday, in name of blench farme, if demanded. * It was this Andrew who accompanied Douglas to Home in 1451. In 1474, during the minority of James III., Andrew Ker of Cessford resigned to him the baronies of Auld Koxburgh and Cessford, on which a charter was granted by Lord James Hamilton of the same to Walter Ker, his son and heir, under reservation of the terce for life of Margaret Tweedy, his wife. In 1478, Walter Ker appears as proprietor of Caver- ton.-f On the king attaining his majority, the same lands were again resigned to him by the same Walter Ker, in 1481, to whom he again granted them, with the remainder, in succession, to his brothers Thomas, William, and Ralphe, and the true and lawful heirs whomsoever of the said Andrew Ker. In 1488, James IV. granted to Walter Ker the place and messuage of Roxburgh, with per- tinents, castle, and the patronage of the Maisondieu, for payment of a red rose at the castle, at the Feast of John the Baptist.^ In 1500, the grant was con- firmed.

* Keg. Mag. Sig., Lib. iv. No. 3. t Acta Dom. Con. p. 69. X Reg. Mag. Sig., Lib. xii. No. 16.

92 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

In 1509 the demesne lands of Auld Roxburgh, with mill, mount, and Castlestead, and the town and lands of Auld Roxburgh, were resigned by Andrew Ker, the son of Walter Ker, into the hands of James IV., who granted them anew to him and his wife, Agnes Crichton, for the usual services. Andrew Ker was one of the border barons who bound them- selves to assist the Earl of Angus against the Liddes- dale men, and others dwelling within the bounds of Teviotdale and Ettrick forest, in putting them out of the same.* In 1526, while James V. was returning from Jedburgh, accompanied by Angus, with a body of his kindred, they were attacked by Buccleuch with 1000 men, but the result was in favour of Angus. Cessford pursuing too eagerly, was slain by a domestic of Buccleuch, which produced a deadly feud between the families of Ker and Scott, which raged for many years upon the Borders. To recon- cile this quarrel, an agreement was entered into at Ancrum, in March, 1529, between the clans of Scot and Ker, whereby each clan was to forgive the other, but it was stipulated that Sir Walter Scott of Branxholm should go to the four head pilgrimages of Scotland, and say a mass for the souls of the deceased Andrew of Cessford, and those who were slain in his company, and cause a chaplain to say a mass daily, wherever Sir Walter Ker and his friends

* Pitcairn, vol. i. pp. 126-7-9.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 93

pleased, for the space of five years ; Ker of Dolphin- ston, and Ker of Gradon should also go to the four head pilgrimages, and make a mass to be said for the souls of the Scots and their friends who were slain on the same field, and get a chaplain to say a mass daily for three years, at any place Sir Walter Scott might fix upon ; that the son and heir of Branx- holm was to marry one of the sisters of Ker of Cessford, and the marriage portion to be paid by Sir Walter Scott at the sight of friends ; any difference that might arise in future between the clans was to be settled by six arbiters. But this agreement, which both parties bound and obliged " ilk ane to others be the faith and troth of their bodies, but fraud or guile, under the pain of perjury, man- swearing, defalcation, and breaking of the bond of deadly," seems to have been of brief endurance. In 1535, Buccleuch was imprisoned for levying war against the Kers, but in 1542 his estates were restored by Parliament. In 1552, Sir Walter Scott was slain by Ker of Cessford in the streets of Edin- burgh. With the view of stanching this feud, a contract was entered into in 1564 between Sir Walter Scott of Branxholm, with the consent of his curators, and Sir Walter Ker of Cessford. In that curious document, Sir Walter Ker takes burden upon him for his children, and for his brother Mark of Newbattle, and his children ; Hume of Cowden- knowes, and his children ; Andrew Ker of Faldon-

91 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

side, and his children and brother ; Ker of Messing- ton, his father's brother and their children ; Ker of Linton, and his children and grand-children, and brother's bairns ; Richard Ker of Gateshaw, his children and brother ; Andrew, William, and John Ker, brothers, of Fernieherst ; Ker of Kippeshaw, and his son Robert Ker of Both town ; Robert Ker, burgess of Edinburgh, and all their children ; brother kyn, Mends, men, tenants, and servants. * And Sir Walter Scott of Branxholm and Buccleuch, with consent of his curators, took burden upon him for his haill surname, and the relict and bairns of the deceased Sir Walter Scott, his grandfather, and also for Cranstoun of that Ilk;-f- the laird of Chisholme, Gladstones of that Ilk ; Langlands of that Ilk ; Veitch of Sinton, and Ormstone of that Ilk. On the one

* Sir Thomas Ker of Fernieherst ; Sir Andrew Ker of Hirsel ; Kobert Ker of Woodhead ; John Haldane of that Ilk ; Gilbert Ker of Primisideloch ; James Ker of Tarbet ; Robert Ker of Gradene and Andrew Ker, and their children, servants, and all others, were excluded from this bond, in consequence of their having refused to join in the contract when asked by the laird of Cessford, brother-in-law of Fernieherst.

t Celebrated in the " Lay of the Last Minstrel" as "Margaret of Branksome's Choice," and the substitute of William of Delorain in the duel with dark Musgrave. The minstrel celebrates the marriage at Branksome Castle in presence of the wardens on each side of the Border; but Wood and Crauford give " Teviot's Flower" to Sir John Johnstone of that Ilk.

EOXBUEGHSHIEE, ETC. 95

part, the laird of Buccleuch bound himself and all his clan not to pursue the laird of Cessford, or any- other person for whom he was bound criminally or civilly, for any slaughter or blood committed in time past, nor bear hatred, grudge, or displeasure there- fore, but bury and put the same under perpetual silence and oblivion, and to live in perfect amity and Christian neighbourhood in time coming. And on the other part, the laird of Cessford became bound that neither he nor any one for whom he took burden should in any way pursue the laird of Buccleuch, or any of his surname, or others for whom he was bound criminally or civilly. And for the better removing of all feud and enmity between the parties through the unhappy slaughter of Sir "Walter Scott, it was agreed that Sir Walter Ker should, upon the 23rd day of March instant, go to the parish kirk of Edinburgh, and there, before noon in the sight of the people, reverently and upon his knees ask God's mercy for the slaughter, and forgiveness of the same from the laird of Buccleuch and his friends, promising, in the name and fear of God, that he and his friends would truly keep their part of the contract, which being done, Buccleuch should reverently accept, and receive, and promise, in the fear of God, to remit his grudge, and never remember the same. It was farther agreed that Thomas Ker, the second son of Cess- ford, was to marry a sister of the laird of Buccleuch,

96 THE HISTOEY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

between the date of the contract and the last day of May next, without any tocher to be paid by her brother and her friends, the laird of Cessford being bound to provide them an honest and reasonable living, effeiring to their condition ; and also to infeft her in her virginity, in conjunct fee and liferent with her future spouse, and their heirs, in lands or annual-rent of the amount of one hundred merks yearly;* that George Ker, the eldest son of Ker of Faldonside, should marry Janet Scott, the aunt of the laird of Buccleuch, as soon as he became of per- fect age, without tocher; and in the event of George dying, the next son was to marry her, and so long as there were sons of Ker to marry; in the event of Janet Scott dying before the marriage, George Ker was to marry the next sister, so on as long as Ker had a son, and Janet a sister, to marry. The bond next provided for the settlement of any dispute that might arise between the parties by arbitration, and failing their agreeing upon a proper person, the Queen and Council were to appoint an oversman. The contract was subscribed by " Janet Betoune," relict of the deceased Sir Walter Scott, with her own hand, " in signe of hir consent to the premisses," and in manner following : " Walter Ker of Cessford, Walter

* It seems that this arrangement did not take place, as Janet the eldest sister married Sir Thomas Ker of Fernie- herst five years afterwards ; she was the mother of the too celebrated Viscount Rochester.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 97

Scott of Bukleuch, Janet Betoune, Lady of Buk- cleuch •* James ; Thomas Scott of Hanyng ; Mr Johne Spens, curator, above written ; Johne Max- well ; J. Bellendine, as curator ; Robert Scot of Thirlestane, with my hand at the pen led by David Laute, notarie publict."-f-

At the same time, the king granted a remission under seal to Sir Walter Ker, for his share in the slaughter of the Knight of Branxholm. In 1574, James VI., with consent of Eegent Morton, granted the lands and barony of Auld Roxburghe, with their pertinents, to Robert Ker, the son and apparent heir of William Ker, younger of Cessford, with remainder in succession to his heirs; to the heirs male of William Ker; to the heirs of Sir Walter Ker of Cessford ; to Mark Ker, the commendator of New- battle, brother of Sir Walter Ker, and his heirs ; to Andrew Ker of Faldonside and his heirs ; to Thomas Ker of Mersington and his heirs ; to George Ker of Linton and his heirs; to Ker of Gateshaw and his heirs; to the heirs male whomsoever of the said William Ker, younger of Cessford, bearing the name

* This lady was a daughter of Beatoun of Creich, and possessed so much ability that the country people attributed her knowledge to magic. She has been rendered immortal by Sir Walter Scott in the " Lay of the Last Minstrel." She rode at the head of the clan after the murder of her husband.

t This gentleman was the ancestor of Lord Napier. Few even among the great men were at that period good clerks.. VOL. III. H

98 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

of Ker and the Cessford arms, reserving the freehold and liferent to Sir Walter Ker, and the terce to Isabel his wife, and after their death, the same to William Ker and his wife Janet Douglas* On the death of Sir Walter Ker, William, his son, succeed- ed. For many years he was warden of the middle marches. His son Robert, afterwards the first Earl of Roxburghe, was one of the most noted spirits on the Border. He acted as depute-warden of the middle marches during the life of his father. While differences existed between the two houses of Cess- ford and Fernieherst, Sir Robert was guilty of the slaughter of William Ker of Ancrum, one of the clan of the latter family. It is said by Spottis- woode,-|- that the young chief was instigated to the murder by his mother, for which he obtained a remission the following year. Having met Both- well near Humbie in Haddingtonshire, the two engaged in single combat for two hours, and parted from pure fatigue, without either having sustained any serious injury. One of the Rutherfurds accom- panied Cessford, and was wounded in the cheek by Bothwell's attendant. Of Ker, Sir Robert Carey, who was deputy warden of the east marches, says,

* Reg. Mag. Sig. lib. xxxiv. No. 67. Sir Walter was mar- ried to Isabel, daughter of Ker of Fernieherst, and William, his son, to Janet Douglas, daughter of Sir William Douglas of Drumlanrig, and widow of Tweedie of Drumelzier.

+ Page 383.

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that he was opposite warden, and a brave, active officer. By the laws of the Border, it was provided that the wardens of each kingdom should deliver up offenders till satisfaction was made, and the warden failing to do so, was bound to deliver himself up to the opposite warden, and be detained till the judg- ment of the commissioners of the Border was obeyed. The Lord of Buccleuch and Sir Kobert Ker having failed to deliver offenders on the day fixed, were complained of, on which Buccleuch entered himself prisoner to Sir William Selby, master of the ordnance in Berwick, and the Lord Home, by the king's command, delivered up Cess- ford a prisoner at Berwick, who was at his own request placed under the charge of Sir Robert Carey, who says, in his Memoirs, " I lodged him as well as I could, and tooke order for his diet and men to attend on him, and sent him word that (although by his harsh carriage toward me ever since I had that charge, he could not expect any favour yet) hearing so much goodness of him that he never broke his worde, if he should give me his hand and credit to be a true prisoner, he would have no guard sett upon him, but have free liberty for his friends in Scotland to have ingresse and rearesse to him as oft as he pleased. He took this very kindly at my hands, accepted of my offer, and sent me thankes. Some four days passed: all which time his friends came in to him and hee kept his chamber. Then he

1 00 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

sent to mee and desired mee I would come and speak with him, which I did, and after long dis- course, charging and recharging one another with wrongs and injuries, at last, before our parting, wee became good friends, and great protestation on his side never to give mee occasion of unkindness again. After our reconciliation, he kept his chamber no longer, but dined and supped with me. I took him abroad with mee at least thrice a-week a-hunt- ing, and every day we got better friends. Buc- cleuch in a few days after had his pledges delivered, and was sett at liberty. But Sir Bobert Ker could not get his, so that I was commanded to carry him to York, and there to deliver him to the Archbishop, which I accordingly did. At our parting, he pro- fessed great love unto me for the kind usage I had shown him, and that I would find the effects of it upon his delivery, which he hoped would be shortly. After his return home, I found him as good as his word. We met oft at days of truce, and I had as good justice as I could desire, and so we continued very kind and good friends all the time I staid in that march." The Archbishop of York says he " found him wise and valiant, but somewhat haughty and resolute." On the 29th December, 15.99, six days after the baptism of the infant Prince Charles, the king created Sir Robert Earl of Roxburghe * In 1601 he was appointed a commis-

* Balfour's Annals, vol. i. p. 409.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 101

sioner of Justiciary " for the torture, trial, and exe- cution of Mr Peter Nairne," charged with having conspired the murder of several Englishmen whom he had induced to enter Scotland on the pretence that he would obtain them employment from the king, and when he got them to Kelso, attempted to murder them.* In 1606 he was made Baron Ker of Cessford and Caverton, and Earl of Roxburgke. He was privy seal in the reign of Charles I. He married, first, Mary, daughter of Sir William Main- land, by whom he had a son, William, who died in infancy, and three daughters. He next married Jane, daughter of Lord Drummond, by whom he had an only son, Harry, Lord Ker, who predeceased himself, leaving four daughters. The earl, seeing that by the death of his son his honours would die with himself, obtained a power to institute a new series- of heirs to his titles and estates. On the 17th July, 1643, he resigned his dignities and estates into the hands of the king, for the purpose of obtaining a new grant thereof, to himself and the heirs male of his body, and whom failing, to his heirs and assignees, to be nominated and constituted by him during his lifetime by any writing under his hand. Next year he executed a deed of nomination, by which he called to the succession several near rela- tions, on the condition that they should marry one of his grand-daughters, the children of Harry, Lord

* Pitcairn, vol. ii. p. 351-2.

102 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

Ker ; but this nomination being considered ineffec- tual, he obtained a new charter from the crown, under which he was infeft, and in 1648 executed a new destination of his dignities and estates. Fail- ing heirs male of his own body, he nominated Sir William Drummond, fourth son of his daughter Jean, Countess of Perth, and the second son of his grand-daughter Jean, Countess of Wigton, in their order, all of whom, and the heirs male lawfully begotten of their bodies, with their spouses, he con- stituted heirs of tailzie and successors to his titles and estates, under certain restrictions. One of these was the appointment of his heir to marry one of the grand-daughters, offering himself first to the eldest, and so on, and to bear the arms and name of Ker. In the event of the above appointment failing by death, or the not observing the said restrictions and conditions, the right of the said estate was to per- tain and belong to the eldest daughter of the said deceased Harry, Lord Ker, without division, and the heirs male she always marrying or being married to a gentleman of honour, who would obey the con- ditions of the deed: which all failing, to their heirs male, and the nearest heir male of the Earl of Rox- burghe. This entail was ratified by Parliament.

At the death of Earl Robert in 1650, Sir William Drummond succeeded under the entail, and married Lady Jean, the eldest daughter of Harry, Lord Ker. The earl was distinguished for military genius in

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 103

Holland; but joining the Royalists, was fined i?6000 by Cromwell. His son Robert was the third earl, and was lost in the Gloucester frigate, in the Yar- mouth Roads, in 1682. His son Robert dying un- married, his younger brother, John, succeeded to the earldom, and for his services in bringing about the union between Scotland and England, was created Duke of Roxburghe in 1707. He was privy seal in Scotland in 1714, and secretary of state in 1716, but lost office in 1725, in consequence of opposing Sir Robert Walpole. He died at Eleurs in 1741. Robert, his son and successor, died in 1755, and was succeeded by John, his son and heir, who was a great book-collector. He rose high in the favour of George III. He died, unmarried, in March, 1804. It is said that his not marrying was caused by an attachment that " had been formed between his Grace, when on his travels, and Chris- tina Sophia Albertina, eldest daughter of the Duke of Mecklenburgh Strelitz, and that their nuptials would have taken place, had not her sister, the Princess Charlotte, just at that time been espoused to King George III. Etiquette then interfered, it being deemed not proper that the elder should be a sub- ject of the younger sister ; but both parties evinced the strength of their attachment by devoting their after-lives to celibacy/'* He was succeeded by

* Sharpe's Peerage, vol. iii., and papers of the day.

104 THE HISTOEY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

Lord Bellendean, descended from William, second son of William Ker of Cessford, and brother of Robert, first Earl of Roxburghe. On the 18th of June, 1804, Duke William executed a trust dispo- sition in favour of Henry Gawler and John Seton Kerr, of the estate of Roxburghe, for the purpose of paying certain legacies. He also executed a deed of entail in favour of himself and the heirs of his body : whom failing, to John Gawler and certain other heirs. In the same year he conveyed the lands of Byrecleuch and others to the same trustees, and granted sixteen feu dispositions, whereby the whole estate, with the exception of the mansion-house of Floors, and a few acres of ground around it, was disponed to John Gawler and his heirs and disponees, for payment of certain feu duties. He died in October, 1805, without issue, and in him failed all the descendants of Sir William Druinmond.

Brigadier-General Walter Ker, of Littledean, claimed to succeed as heir male general of Lady Jean Ker, the eldest daughter of Harry, Lord Ker, the son of the first Earl Robert, and also to Henry Lord Ker.

Sir James Norcliffe Innes claimed, under the same clause of the deed, as heir male of the body of Lady Margaret, the third daughter of Harry, Lord Ker, who married his great- grandfather, Sir James Innes, in 1666, to the exclusion of General Ker, the trus- tees, and Mr. Gawler. After a long litigation, it

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 105

was ultimately decided in May 11, 1812, that, as Lady Margaret was the eldest daughter at the time the succession opened, Sir James was entitled to be preferred to the honours and estates.

The house of Innes owes its foundation to a Fle- ming who settled in Scotland during the 12th century. During the reigns of William Rufus and Henry I., the Flemings migrated in great numbers to England, and were settled in the waste lands of Northumber- land and Cumberland, where their language may still be traced in the names of places. In the civil wars of Stephen, the Flemings aided as stipendiaries in his armies ; but on Henry II. ascending the throne, he banished them out of England. The Flemings then repaired to Scotland, where they easily obtained settlements ; and in the course of a few years they were to be found in every town and hamlet in the kingdom, carrying on trade in the country, cultivat- ing the wastes, and raising villages on their farms ; on the sea coast they settled as fishers. In the 1 3th century, the trade of the country was nearly all in their hands. Berwick was then governed by Adam Flandrensis, and a body of that people defended the Redhall of that place against the English in 1296, till every man perished in the flames. Under David I., a Fleming was Provost of St. Andrews, and in Perth they appear as goldsmiths and saddlers. Jordan, a Fleming, got a grant from David I. of lands on the Tweed; and in 1141? witnessed a charter by

1 06 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

the king to the monks of Kelso. It was this Jordan who granted lands in the territory of Orde to the same monks. This eminent man was taken prisoner with William the Lion at the siege of Alnwick. Amongst the earliest immigrants were many Flem- ings, who had distinguished themselves in the armies of England, and who were received by the King of Scotland into his army, getting payment for their services in land. In every district, from the Tweed and Solway to the Clyde and Moray Frith, the Flemings obtained settlements; and so powerful did they become, that they obtained right to be governed by their own laws.* When the Flemings settled among the Celts of the district of Moray, and intro- duced new customs and laws, the men of Moray raised the standard of revolt in support of their ancient principles and laws. But Malcolm IV.. with the aid of his Flemish stipendiaries, put down the revolt, after a violent struggle. At the suppression of this revolt, a Flandrekin obtained from the king, as a reward for his services, a grant of the lands of Innes, which he afterwards adopted as his sur- name, and transmitted to the successful claimant of the dignities and estates of Koxburghe, and many other respectable families descended from the same stock. A number of remarkable men sprung from

* David II. granted a charter to John Marr, canon of Aberdeen, for the lands of Cmterstoun, in the Gariach. "Una cum lege Fleminga dicitur Fleming-Lauche."

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 107

Berowald, and filled high offices in both church and state. In the end of the 14th century, George Innes was a Cardinal and Primate of England. In 1406, John was Bishop of Moray, and John, sprung from the marriage of Sir Walter Innes with Lady Fraser of Lovat, was Bishop of Caithness. Duncan Forbes, the compiler of the pedigree in Douglas' Peerage, says that " there" are three things wherein the family are either notable or happy: first, that their inheri- tance never went to a woman; second, that none of them ever married an ill wife; and, thirdly, that no friend ever suffered for their debt." Sir James Innes, who succeeded as fifth Duke of Roxburghe, assumed the name of Ker, and married, in 1807, Harriet, daughter of Benjamin Charleswood, of Windlesham, and died in July, 1823, aged eighty-seven, leaving issue, the present duke, who was born in July, 1816, being the thirtieth in descent from Berowaldus.

Ednaham; Edenham; Ednam. This part of the district is entitled to be mentioned next, on account of its being one of the earliest settlements to be found on record. It derives its name from the British Eden, the gliding stream, and the Saxon ham, a dwelling Edenham, the dwelling on the Eden. In one of the first of the genuine charters, there exists a grant from King Edgar to Thorloiigus* i.e., Thor

* Thorlongus was a Saxon or Danish colonist from the north of England. There was a Thor in Jed forest, and it is

108 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

the Long to distinguish him from other Thors of Ednaham, described in the grant as a desert which, with the help of the king, he peopled, and built a church in honour of Cuthbert, the Tweedside saint. In the grant by Thorlongus, transferring this church to the monks of Durham, Ednam is called a waste. This curious document is still preserved in the treasury of Durham, and is as follows: "To the sons of Holy Mother Church, Thor the Long greeting in the Lord: Know that Edgar, my lord King of the Scots, gave me Ednaham, a waste ; that with his help and my own means I peopled it, and have built a church in honour of St. Cuthbert and his monks, to be possessed by them evermore. This gift I have made for the soul of my lord King Edgar, and for the souls of his father and mother, and for the weal of his brothers and sisters, and for the redemption of my dearest brother Lefwin, and fof the weal of myself, both my body and my soul. And if any one by force or fraud presume to take away this my gift from the Saint aforesaid, and the monks his servants, may God Almighty take away

probable that he obtained a grant of the lands from Earl Henry. Swan, his son, obtained the manor of Buthven and other lands in Perthshire. It was his grandson Walter who took the surname of Buthven, and who married a daughter of the Earl of Strathern in the reign of Alexander II. Their descendants became Earls of Gowrie in 1581. In 1297, Sir William Ruthven was governor of Jedburgh.

ROXBUEGHSHIKE, ETC. 109

from him the life of the heavenly kingdom, and may he suffer everlasting pains with the devil and his angels. Amen* Although the locality is at the present time a fruitful field, it does not require a stretch of imagination to realize the picture drawn of it by Thor the Long. It would not only be a desert in his time, but a watery waste, extending from the Eden westward, to Broxlaw near the Tweed, as the names of places as well as the nature of the ground evince. A number of high gravel ridges are to be seen here, and are called comb- knowes, and the flat land between them comb-flat. These ridges have all been formed by water, and there can be little doubt that the flat lands between these combs were covered with water, and it is pro- bable that the name of "combs" was imposed by the Saxon followers of Thorlongus. David I. granted to the monks of Coldingham a toft with houses in Edenham. -f- The king had a large mill here, from which he granted to the monks of Kelso, in 1 1 28, twelve chalders of malt, with right to dig turf for fuel in the moor of Edenham. King William gave the monks the mill itself, and three carrucates of land in the town, as Erkenbald the abbot of Dunfermline had laid them out in terms of the king's writ, in exchange for the grant of 20 chalders of meal and

* Smith's Bede, 763-4. North Durham Appendix, p. 38, N. cxi.

t Chart of Coldingham, 3.

1 1 0 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

wheat which they had from the mills of Roxburgh, and 40s. from the customs of the same, with power to prevent the erection of any other mill in the parish, and a right to the same services from the inhabitants, which the latter were bound to yield to the proprietors of the mill. Two-and-a-half of these carrucates are described as lying on the north side of the peatry of Ednam, reaching thence along the boundary of the parishes to the southern bounds of Newton, and thence to the river Eden, and along the Eden to the bridge on the west side of Ednam, thence to the road leading to the hospital at the forking of the road which comes from the north side of the peatry, and along the road to the place first mentioned, with pasturage of a piece of ground lying between the peatry and the bounds of Kelso; the other half-carrucate lay on the east side of the quarry belonging to the abbey, and on the side of the road leading to Sprouston Ford.* The same king granted the monks of Dryburgh two-and-a- half merks yearly out of a carrucate of land in Ednam.*)- During the 1 2th century, the church of Edenham had two dependent chapels, one at Newton, and the other at Nathansthorn. Before 1158, Robert, Bishop of St. Andrews, confirmed the con- nection between the mother church and the chapel at Newton. J Before 1162, Bishop Arnold confirmed

* Lib. de Calchou. t Lib. of Dryburgh.

Chart, Coldiiigham, p. 41.

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. Ill

both chapels to the church of Ednam. In 1221, there was a charter granted in a full chapter of the Merse at Ednam : " in pleno capitulo de Mersce apud Edenham." There was also an hospital at Edenham, dedicated to St. Leonard. In 1349, Edward III. issued a writ for restoring the hospital of St. Mary at Berwick and of Edenham to Robert de Buston, who is said to have been a busy agent of the English king on the Border.* The lands of Edenham seem to have been the property of the crown at the end of the war of independence. At that time Robert I. granted, inter alia, the barony of Edenham, which appears to have been co-extensive with the parish, in marriage, with his daughter Mar- jery. Robert the Stewart confirmed these lands, with the churches and hospital, to Robert Erskine and Christian his spouse, but on becoming king, he granted to Sir Robert Erskine and his wife c£J100 sterling out of his firms in Aberdeen, in exchange for the lands of Ednam and Nisbet. In 1333, letters of protection were granted by Edward III. to William of Edenham arid others. In 1335, the same king gave the property in Berwick which formerly belonged to Robert of Edenham, to Henry of Bam- borough. In 1358, a safe-conduct was granted to Fergus of Edenham, a merchant, to travel in Eng- land.*)- The old family of Edmonstone possessed

* Rotuli Scotiae, voL L t lb. pp. 255, 384, 822.

112 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

this property for a long period. The first settlement of the family was in Mid-Lothian, during the reign of David I. Edmund is a witness to several charters by that king. The estate of Edmunston in Mid-Lothian went off at an early period with an heiress, but the heirs male retained the barony of Edenham. In 1593, Andrew Edmonstone of that Ilk obtained from James VI. all and hail the lands of Barningtoun, Barleis, and Berryloch, with their pertinents, which formerly pertained in feu farm to Francis, Earl Bothwell, and his sons, John and Francis Stewart, held immediately from the abbey of Kelso, and then in his Majesty's hands, by reason of Both well's forfeiture.* The barony was in the progress of time gradually diminished by partial sales ; amongst others, Henderside and Newton-don were slices from it. Still, a good estate remained behind, but so burdened, that James Edmonstone, the last laird, was obliged to dispose of it to James Ramsay Cuthbert, about 65 years ago. It is now the property of Lord Ward. With the reversion, Edmonstone purchased the property of Corehouse, on the Clyde, which he left to his sisters, the last of whom was involved in many law-suits. George Cranstoun was her counsel, to whom she ultimately left her property, and when made a judge, he took the title of Lord Corehouse. She died at the age of

* Acta Pari voL iv. p. 37.

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105, and on her death-bed, she charged Cranstoun to see that she was laid in the graveyard of Ednam by her own relations, of whom she gave him a list. The ashes of the last of the race were laid in the cemetery of Ednam, in accordance with her desire. One of the lairds of Ednam married a princess of Scotland, in memory of which they added the tressnre to their arms. When James Dickson became proprietor of part of Edenham, he enclosed the lands, built a neat village, and attempted to establish woollen manufactures for cloth, particularly English blankets.* He built an extensive brewery, which is still successfully carried on. In the garden 'of the brewery is a wych elm, which measures in girth 23 feet; at the height of 10 feet, where the first large branch springs, 10 feet; and at the height of 25 feet, where the second large branch leaves the trunk, 9 feet. It is about 60 feet high, and the branches cover a space of 23 yards in circumference. The trunk is sculptured with deep ridges like a cork- tree, -f-

Edenham is said to be the birthplace of the father of the famous Captain Cook. The tradition of the family is, that the father of the captain was born here, from which he went to Ayton, in Berwickshire,

* Old Statistical Account, vol. ii. p. 305. t Johnstone's Natural History of the Eastern Borders, vol. i. p. 177.

VOL. III. I

114 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

and from that place to Martin Cleveland, in England, where the great captain was born. In confirmation of this tradition, the parish record bears: "Dec. 24, 1692, John Cooke, in this parish, and Jean Duncan e, in the parish of Smailhume, gave up their names for proclamation in order to mar- riage. A certificate produced of her good behaviour. John Cooke and Jean Duncane were married, Jan. 19, 1693."— "] (594, John Cook had a son baptized, called James, March the 4th day." The same register also bears that John Cuke, the grandfather of the captain, was an elder of the parish in 1692, during the incumbency of Thomas Thomson, father ot the poet of the Seasons.

It has generally been believed that James Thom- son1 the poet, was born in the manse of Edenham, on the 11th of September, 1700, about a month before his father's translation to Southdean; and although satisfied myself, that the poet was born at Edenham, I think it right to notice, that there has always existed a tradition on the Cayle water, that the poet was born at a place called Wideopen, which stood on the hill to the south of Lintonloch, the property of his mother, Beatrix Trotter. It is said that Mrs Thomson gave birth rather unexpectedly to the poet, while on a visit to her mountain home ; but if there be any truth in the tradition that Wideopen was the place of the poet's birth, it is probable that his mother had gone to that place for

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 115

the purpose of having the child on her own land, as was customary in the time in which she lived, the more especially as the family was about to leave Edenham. The writer of the " Old Statistical Ac- count" of the parish, published in the end of the last century, states, that " a proposal was made, some years before that time, to erect a monument to the poet, but it had not been accomplished/' Several noblemen and gentlemen, with a laudable zeal for the literary fame of their country, were in the habit of meeting annually at Edenham, to celebrate the poet's birthday, as well as with the view of for- warding the execution of that design. The design was not carried out till 1820, when an obelisk, fifty- two feet high, was raised to his memory, on a rising ground on the estate of Henderside. The expense of the erection was defrayed by the members of the club, who held their last meeting in September, 1819.

William Dawson, the distinguished agriculturist, was born at Harpertoun on this manor, and is said to have introduced, in 1753, a regular system of turnip husbandry in this part of Scotland, although Dr. John Rutherford, Melrose, had begun the sowing of turnips in the field in 1747. In Haddington- shire, turnips had been sown in the fields in 1736. Like every other place lying near the border, Eden- ham had its full share of the miseries of war. In July, J 544, the captain of Norham Castle, the Wark

1 1 G THE HISTOftY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

garrison, and Henry Eure, burnt the village, made many prisoners, took a bastille house, strongly built, aud got a booty of forty nolt and thirty horses, besides those on which the prisoners were mounted, each on a horse. In 1558, Edenham, with other villages, was destroyed by the Earl of Northumber- land.

Hendeeside. This estate lies between Ednam, on the north, and the Tweed, on the south, a little to the east of Kelso. The greater portion of it was comprehended in the barony of Edenham. The mansion-house called Henderside Park, stands on a considerable eminence, and commands a beautiful view of the valley of the Tweed, the rich country on the opposite bank of the river, with the ruined towers of the abbey rising above Kelso. The house was erected in 1803, in front of a wood planted in 1775, by William Ormiston, then proprietor of the estate, with the view of building a mansion at the place. It has been greatly enlarged and improved by the present proprietor, John Waldie, in 1829 and 1840. The policy is laid out with taste and skill, and the approaches are judiciously formed. The house con- tains a library of 18,000 volumes, classified and arranged according to the subjects. In this library is incorporated a smaller library, formerly in the house of Mr. Waldie's grandmother, Jane Waldie or Ormston, which was used constantly by Sir Walter

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 117

Scott, when quite a youth, at Kelso school, and where he spent much time with Mrs. Waldie, who was an intimate friend of his parents. Besides the library, which is peculiarly rich in valuable works relative to the fine arts, is a large and very valuable collec- tion of paintings, chiefly of the old masters, and a fine collection of antique marble columns supporting busts, for the most part modern copies. The busts of the Four Seasons, lately brought from Koine, are the chefs-d'oeuvres of Benzoni, the Italian sculptor. They are said to have been much admired during the winter of 1856-7, at Eome, by the Empress and Grand Duchess Olga, the Dowager Queen of Spain, the King of Bavaria, and Pope Pius IX., who often visited the studio of Benzoni.

The estate was acquired by one of the Ormstones of Kelso about 1600, and was greatly added to by that family till it went with Jane Ormstone, in marriage to John Waldie of Berryhill, which was at one time the property of the Earl of Both well. By the death of her father, and other members of her family, Jane Ormstone became vested in all the property which belonged to them, and which she conveyed to her eldest and only surviving son, George Waldie, father of the present proprietor of the Ormstone and Waldie estates, both in Boxburgh- shire and Northumberland. The first of the name of "Waldo" is said to have been a follower of William of Normandy, and who settled in Sussex.

I 1 <S THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

One of the descendants of this Waldo was secretary to an abbot of Kelso, and his offspring acquired lands in and around Kelso. John Waldie of Kelso married Elizabeth, niece of Sir Alexander Don of Newton. The heir-apparent of the present John Waldie is the only son of Sir Eichard Griffith.

Newton; Little Newton; Newton Don, and Nenthorn; Naythansthorn. The two manors of Newton and Nenthorn were, during the 12th cen- tury, the property of the Morvilles, the hereditary constables of Scotland, who were also proprietors of Bemersyde, Dryburgh, and Merton, on the same bank of the Tweed. At the death of William Morville in 1196, without lawful issue, his estates and offices passed to his only sister, Elena, and her husband, the lord of Galloway. They were suc- ceeded by their only child, Allan, who was one of the most opulent barons in Britain. He died in 1 234, leaving, by his wife Margaret, a daughter of David, Earl of Huntingdon, three daughters, Elena, Christian, and Dervorgil. Elena married Koger de Quincey, Earl of Winchester, and her daughter Margaret became Countess of Derby; Christian, William de Fortibus, son of the Earl of Albemarle ; and the youngest, John Baliol, the lord of Bernard Castle, father of the Baliol who competed for the (Town of Scotland. On the accession of the Bruce, lie conferred the property on his favourite warrior,

ROXBURGHSHIRE, ETC. 119

Sir James Douglas. The territory was held by- vassals under the Morvilles, their descendants, and the Douglas. It was served by two chapels named after the manors, both dependant on the mother -church at Edenham. Hugh, the first Morville, gave the monks of Dryburgh the tenth of the multure of his mills of Naythansthyrn and Newton, with half-a-carrucate of land in Newton, with pasture for nine oxen and one work-horse* About 1162, Roger Bertram gave the tenth of the mills of Naythansthorn to the monks of Dryburgh, for the salvation of the soul of Hugh Morville, for his own soul, and the soul of his wife Ada.f Between 1212 and 1281, these grants were confirmed by William, Bishop of St. Andrews.]: About 1388, Richard de Hanganside, a vassal of the Douglas, gave to the monks of Kelso all his land in the territory of Little Newton, in, the constabulary of Lauder. These subjects are called Comflat, with portions of land and meadows, and described as " bounded by the parish of Kelso on the south, and on the north by the morass of Kanmuir, through which the causeway and highway runs." In the end of the 12th century, Arnold, the diocesan of St. Andrews, confirmed to the monks of Coldingham, the church of Edenham, and both chapels of Newton and Nay- thansthorn. In 1204, these monks compounded

* Lib. of Dryburgh, p. 145. t lb. p. 106. X lb. p. 107.

1 20 THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

with William, the Bishop of St. Andrews, for their rights, and conceded to him both chapels. Before the year 131 6, the parishes of Naythansthirn and Newton were erected into a parish, when the former was made a parochial chnrch, and Newton a dependent chapel.* On the 17th of March, 1316, William de