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799.12 B563

W. BLACKER

The well known Fly Genius, and Piscator's Scientific Workj on the

To he had of the Author only, Ko. 54, DEAN STREET, SOHO, LONDON.

N.B« — Bound together with W. B*s Comprehensive Work of last year, both copies.

ENTERED AT STATIONERS HALL.

(See date of each title page, contents, and notice.)

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Dec. 8., 1843.

azid ConLplete System of

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ILLUSTRATED "WTTH SLATES,

©lYD^CS- TME AK(&jL]S]K. A perfect knowledge of ever)^

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PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR AND DYER OF COLOURS,

MAIRCIE, lQ4k2c

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CONTENTS

PAGE

Art of Fly Making 3

To Make the Fly 4

The Palmer or Hackle Fly 7

On Salmon Hooks ^ 10

Description op Flies 19

The Wren-tail Fly, and Grouse Hackle ib.

The Ant Fly, and the Sooty Olive Fly 20

Soldier Palmer Fly, and Red Palmer Fly 21

Golden Palmer, and Grey Palmer 22

The Black Palmer, and Little Castle Fly 23

The Grey Housewife, and Stone Fly 24

Cowdung Fly, and Black Gnat 25

The Little Soldier Fly, and Hare's Ear Fly 26

Blue Blow Fly, and Green Drake 27

Grey Drake, and Hawthorn Fly 28

The Black Ant, and Little Gosling 29

The Evening Moth, and the Bee 30

The Brown Bear, and Faren Fly 31

The Midge, and the Emerald Fly 32

The Whirling Dun, and Pismire 33

Whirling Brown 34

The Feathers requisite for Fly Making, and } oo

where found 5

Dun Crow, Back Feather, which makes the } ^o

Gilleruigh Fly ] "^^

Remarks upon Salmon P^tiEs, etc 40

The River Bush, Bushmills 41

The Shannon Flies 42

Receipts for Dyeing — For Blue, Red, Yellow, Brown and Black. . , ,44—46

For Flame Coloured Scarlet 47

Composition for Scarlet ib.

For Staining Gut ib.

CONTENTS

PAGE

Catechism of Fly Making 50

Second method of making the Trout-fly 65

The Palmer 56

„ Palmer or Hackle-fly 57

„ Pike-fly 59

„ Fire-fly 64

To make the India-ruhber fly 65

Five beautiful Miniature Flies 67

L— The Wren-tail 68

2. — „ Iron Blue ib.

3.— „ Yellow Dun or Upright ib.

4.— „ Aller or Alder-fly 69

5. — „ Partridge or Grouse Hackle, , ib.

The Golden Plover Hackle 71

The Needle -fly or Harry long legs • • ib.

„ Partridge Hackle ib.

Three Dun Palmers 72

Four celebrated Evening Flies for the River Thames,

at Weybridge, Surrey ib.

Two Chub Flies 73

The Great Caterpillar or Hairy-worm , 74

„ Cadis-worm or Cor-bait , 76

Instructions for Twisting Gut, Making Casting

Lines, &c 78

Recipe for Yellow, • «••,••.•«.•,.»••,•,•,• t •••• • 80

CONTENTS.

Another Recipe for Yellow 82

The Salmon 87

Description of one hundred Salmon Flies 90

The Dragon-fly 91

5, Shannon Flies ib.

Salmon Flies for the River Tweed 98

„ „ for the River Erene, Ballyshannon. ... 105

„ „ for the River Boyne, Drogheda 108

Five Flies for Sea Trout or Salmon Pale 110

Salmon Flies for the River Ness, Inverness Ill

„ „ for the River Spey 114

„ „ for the Findorn, Elgin, neai* the Spey 117 „ „ for the Rivers Dee and Don, Aber- deen » ib.

„ „ for the Rivers Brora and Shin,

Sutherland 118

„ „ for the R^iver Tay, Perth 120

„ „ for the River Tyne, Newcastle 121

„ „ for Wales ib.

„ „ for Norway 122

Lake Flies for Ireland ib.

„ „ Scotland ib.

English and Irish Hooks 123

To make the Scotch Trout Fly ib.

„ „ Scotch Salmon Fly 125

„ „ Spinning Minnow Tackle •.•••.«••• 127

NOTICE

A new edition of the art of Fly Making and Dyeing having been called for, in con- sequence of some becoming dissatisfied respecting the number of pages contained in the first — and, not allowing themselves time to study the instructions given therein, censured it for its diminutive appearance — forgetting that a great deal of matter could be propounded in few words. My prin- cipal intention, in the first instance, for having written it in a summary manner, was to prevent incumbrance, and to afford the lovers of the gentle craft an opportunity of keeping it in their side-pocket (as my father used to carry his excise minute book), so as to have it always convenient when on their piscatory excursions. But having

11 NOTICE.

heretofore silenced the pretending fraternity of the present day respecting my Fly-mak- ing genius, I will here also remark, that for ages to come, this pocket companion will remain unrivalled as a scientific and practical work. I have perused many books on the art of angling, and although their authors were clever men, yet none of them have come even near anything like teaching the principal branch of an angler's educa- tion.

Seeing, therefore, that practice with dili- gence becomes expedient, and the only means to ensure success, I sincerely trust, that when the student becomes perfect master of his art, he will give Csesar his due.

I have added to the former work — neces- sary imitations of the most killing and beautiful flies that Trout love to feed upon — necessary instructions for making gut casting lines, and twist gut — to make the

NOTICE. HI

Pike-fly — the spinning tackle — route to the streams — one hundred specimens of the artificial Dragon-fly to suit each noted Salmon river — with a Catechism of Fly- making, that will afford the students every opportunity of retaining the whole process, that when it is perfectly understood and rehearsed in the mind, they may apply with more certain facility the hand to both ma- terial and hook.

W. Blacker.

54, Dean Street, Soho, December 8, 1843.

PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR.

ENTERED AT STATIONERS* HALL.

BLACKER'S ART OF FLY-MAKINC.

A concise account of the best Fly-fishing Stations, on each of the principal rivers and lakes in Great Britain and Ireland; shewing the route from London, Dublin, Edin- burgh, Glasgow, Liverpool, and Belfast; giving also the Flies best adapted for Salmon and Trout fishing on each.

1st. Rivers ; 2nd. Angling Stations, The Salmon Stations^ marked thus * ; the best Trout Stations, thus f ; Salmon and Trout Stations, thus J.

1. The Thames ;:[ 2. Windsor. An artificial minnow, manufactured by the author, is a most destructive bait in the Thames, and in all other rivers and lakes. Flies in use for trout, Nos. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13. (Compare the foregoing numbers, attached to each fly, in the description, page 19; Salmon flies, page 41 and 42.)

1. The Colne ;f 2. Uxbridge, 15 miles from London, (Middlesex.) Flies to answer, Nos. 2,10, 11, 13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 25.

1. The Wandle;f 2. Carshalton, 12 miles from Lon- don, (Surrey). Flies, Nos. 15, 16, 17, 27, 29, 30, 31.

1. The Derwent;f 2. Famingham, (Kent County,) seventeen miles from London. See the Wandle flies.

1 . The Dove ;f 2. Dovedale, five miles from Ashbourne, 1. The Derwent;f 2. Baslow, Derbyshire. Flies, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10, 12, 14, 18, 24, 28, 30, 31.

1. The Eden, J the Croglin, the Petteril, the Emont, and the Lowther; 2. Penrith, Cumberland, § 282 miles \ See the Northern Tourist's Gaide to the Lakes.

from London, and 18 from Carlisle; the lakes, Ulswater, Derwentwater, and Buttermere. Flies, Nos. 1 , 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 13, 14, 15, 18, 20, 21, 22, 28, 29, 30, 31.

1. The Wye ;l 2. Hereford, near Hay. Flies, Nos. 1,

2, 3, 4, 5, 11, 13, 15, 16, 20, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31. ||

1. The Tweed;* 2. Kelso, Roxburghshire; Peebles, Mailros; route from Penrith or Edinburgh. Salmon flies, page 41 and 42.

1. The Clvde ;f 2. Lanark, near Glasgow. Flies, Nos.

3, 4, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31.

1. The Doon,J the Stincher,* and Girvan;f 2. Ayre, route from Glasgow. Trout flies, Nos. 3, 4, 9, 13, 14, 15, 16, 20, 26, 30. Salmon flies, see page 42.

1. The Awe,* and Lock Awe; J 2 Inverary, Argyle- shire, route from Glasgow. Salmom flies, page 41 and 42. Trout flies, Nos. 2, 5, 6, 7, 8, 11, 13, 16, 19, 24, 26.

1. Loch Lomond ;;j: 2. Dumbarton, route from Glasgow. (See the awe flies.)

I. The Ness;* 2. Inverness, North of Scotland, route from Glasgow, Aberdeen, Dundee, Edinburgh, or direct from London; the Beauley,* in Rosshire; the Brora,* in Sutherlandshire ; the Carron,* in Stirlingshire : all the last mentioned rivers are convenient to Inverness, Flies very gaudy, see page 42.

1. The Spey;* 2. Elgin, on the direct road from Aber- deen to Inverness. Flies very gaudy ; size, see page 42.

1. The Tay ;* 2. Perth and Dunkeld, route from Dun- dee. Salmon flies, page 41 and 42.

RITERS IN IRELAND, WEST OF DUBLIN.

1. The Liff'y; 2. Leixlip, 8 miles from Dublin, and 23 from Newbridge. The flies described, pages 19, 41, and 42, will kill trout and salmon in all the rivers and lakes in Ireland.

1. The Shannon;* 2. Castleconnel and Athlone, Limerick, 94 miles from Dublin.

II See G. Agar Hansard, on Fly-fishiug in Wales.

1. The lakesf of Westmeath ; 2. Mnllingar, 38 miles from Dublin. (See the five flies described page 42.)

1. Lough Allen, J the chief source of the Shannon; 2. Inismagrath, 90 miles from Dublin.

1. The Suck;f 2. Ballynaslow, 5 miles from Shannon bridge.

I. Lakes of Killamey,:j: County Kerry, S. W. ; 2. Dun- loe and Killamey, 142 miles from Dublin, route by Limerick, and 46 miles from the lakes.

1. Lough Mask;f 2. Ballinrobe, County Mayo, 108 milevS from Dublin; Lough Conib, Galway County, o miles from Lough Mask.

1. The Lee,f and Bride ;f 2. Ownsinn, 10 miles from Cork, and 122 from Dublin.

1. The Black Water ;:{: 2. Cappaquin, 25 miles from Cork, County- Waterford.

1. The Noiur,f Suire,f and Barrow ;f 2. Waterford, County, 74 miles from Dublin. Station on each river — the Suir,§ at Clonmel, 20 miles from Waterford; the Bar- row,f at Athy, Kildare County, 32 miles from Dublin ; the Noiur, at Kilkenny, o7 miles from Dublin.

1. The Slaney;f 2. Newtown -harry, Waterford County; and at Enniscorthy, 60 miles fii'om Dublin — (the sea ti-out fishing here is excellent.)

RIVERS NORTH OF DUBLIN.

1. The Boyne;* 2. Droghada, 23 miles from Dublin.

1. The Upper Bann;f 2. Banbridge, 20 miles from Belfast.

1. Lough Neagh; 2. Antrim, 12 miles from Belfast, and 84 from Dublin. This lake is 23 miles in length, and 12 in breadth, and possesses a petrifying quality.

\ The gentle Swire, that making way, By sweet Clonmel, adorns rich Waterford.

SPENCER.

]. The Main-water ;+ 2. Randalstown, Shanes Castle, 4 miles from the last-mentioned town. County of Antrim.

1. The Lower Bann;+ 2. Toomb Bridge, {^^ see the river Bann, and Bush, page 40,) four miles from the Main- water.

1. The Roe; J 2. Newtown -limavaddy, 10 miles from Coleraine, and 109 from Dublin, on the road to Derry. Purple, dark blue, and claret flies, are used on this river.

1. Lough Erne;J 2. Enniskillen, Fermanagh County, 79 miles from Dublin, and 45 from Belfast.

1. The River Erne;* 2. Ballyshannon (salmon leap), 20 miles from Enniskillen, and 100 from Dublin.

1. Lough Gilly jf 2. Sligo, 15 miles fromBallyshannon.

1. The Rivers Derg,t Poe,t Moyle,t Moui*ne,t and Foyle; 2. Strabane, 10 miles from Derry, and 112 from Dublin.

1. The Black-water ;t 2. Moye, Charlemont, 6 miles from Armagh, 30 from Belfast, and 68 from Dublin. The trout run large in this river.

The Salmon Leap of Coleraine is 50 miles from that of Ballyshannon.

To Ireland — route, from London to Liverpool, by steam conveyance, and from Liverpool, daily, across the Channel, in fourteen hours, by the mail packets ; also, to Belfast, in the same space of time; to Glasgow, Cork, Derry, &c.

Description of a most killing Salmon Fly, particularly recom- mended to those who Jish in the rivers in the North oj . Scotland.

Body — blue, yellow, green, and light brown mohair, mixed well together. Legs — black cock's hackle, rolled up the body with gold tinsel. Wings — mallard, peacock's wing, guinea hen, and teal feathers, mixed, two fibres of each. Tail — golden pheasant crest, small feather; hook, No. 9, Limerick.

<jeo. Nichols, Printer, EarPs Court, Soho.

Picker

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On **^alnion .Sooks

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THE

ART OF FLY MAKING,

DYEING, &c.

_Having spent my youthful days in roaming along the banks of the beautiful and romantic streams of my native land — Ireland, and having been for twenty years a skilful angler, and Fly Maker of celebrity, in both Great Britain and Ireland, it is my desire to impart to the world, plainly and easily, the knowledge I have acquired, that all those who wish to become masters of the art, may, by patience and practice, and a close adherence to the instructions I shall lay down, derive the fullest benefit from my ex- perience.

1 have endeavoured in the following treatise on Fly Making, to divest the subject, as far as possible, of all technicalities and superfluities; at the same time I have entered into such full details on all points essential in the construction

of the fly, that by adopting the process I have pointed out, and following the instructions I have given, the aspirants to the art of fly-making may speedily become proficient in the craft.

I have added to " the Art of Fly-making" full instructions and the most approved recipes for dyeing mohair, pig's hair, feathers, and other articles most useful and appropriate for imitating the natural flies, and retaining their beauty through all the vicissitudes to which they may be exposed.

TO MAKE THE FLY.

In the first place let the student provide him- self with the following articles and instruments, viz. mohair, pig's hair, fur, and silk of every colour, shade, and texture ; an assortment of feathers as described hereafter ; gold and silver twist, and tinsel of various dimensions ; hooks of all sizes; silk-worm gut; a pair of sharp pointed scissors ; a pair of pliers, and a small picker. Having all things prepared, let him seat him- self at a good light, and proceed as follows : — Get a small piece of shoemaker's wax, hold

your tying silk (about a foot in length) one end between your teeth, the other in your left hand, waxing it up and down, until there be enough on the silk, observing to wax the silk well you tie on your hook with ; then take your trout-hook in your left hand, by the bend, pla- cing your silk, just waxed, on the shank, giving three or four turns of it towards you, before you put on the gut — this prevents slipping. Choose then the roundest end of your gut, according to the size of your hook, chew it a little with your teeth, and place it on, letting the end come about half-way down the shank, underneath the hook ; hold both together with the nails of your left hand fore-finger and thumb, winding your silk towards you down the shank until opposite the point of the hook — your gut is then firmly tied on : turning your hook in your hand, hold it by the shank, you now turn the silk from you, (the hook is always held by the left hand and the silk wound by the right, and by turning the hook in your^hand you have more command of the fly); then, opposite the barb of your hook, on the shank, tie on your tail two-eighths of an inch long, and your tip of tinsel, with one turn of your waxed silk over each to secure them, (see

6

plate I.) holding your hook still between your forefinger and thumb nails, place your middle finger against the silk where you tie on your tail, to keep it from slipping, then take hold of the tying silk in your right hand, close to the hook, and twist on it a small bit of mohair, shifting your hook, held in your left fore-finger and thumb, and winding it up to form the body of the fly, till within an eighth of an inch from the end of the shank, and there place on your hackle, previously prepared, tying it down with a run- ning knot of the silk at the point. (See hackle prepared and tied on, plate ii.) Now turn your hook in your left hand, holding it by the bend, and with your right hand turn your hackle twice or thrice round the shoulder, close where your hook is left bare the eighth of an inch, keeping the middle finger of the hand your hook is in tight against the hackle, to prevent it from slipping, until you give two turns of your silk round it, and fasten it down Avith a running knot, (see plate III.) then pull out one of the pinion fea- thers of the starling's wing, and cut off two small pieces of the soft feather from the stem, at the same time holding your fly between the fore- finger and thumb nails of your left hand, close

to where you are about to place on your wings, (the small bit of hook bare at the end of the shank,) your silk hanging where you tied down your hackle ; lay on one of your wings at the offside of your fly, giving a turn of the waxed silk over it, keeping your middle finger tight against it, while you take up your other wing, and place it on in like manner at the near side of your fly, not allowing your wings to be too long over the bend of your hook, clip the end of your feather close off, and finish with two running knots of the waxed silk, giving at the same time, two or three turns of your silk round the gut, to prevent the point of the shank from cutting it; cut off your silk close and your fly is finished, (see plate iv.)

THE PALMER OR HACKLE FLY.

To make the palmer, or hackle fly, you tie on the hook and gut as before, and when you have the tying silk opposite the barb on the shank, you will place on two hackles of equal shape to answer the size of the hook, having tied them together at the roots of the stem with a piece of waxed silk

before fastening them on ; (you are now hold- ing the hook by the shank,) the inside of each hackle tied down, and the points prepared, on the shank of the hook opposite the barb, tie on the tinsel to rib the body and the floss silk to form it at the same place — then shift the hook in your hand, still holding it by the shank, till within the eighth of an inch from the end. (My pupil should hold the hook tight between his left fore- finger and thumb nails in all the processes of the

fly.)

Now take the floss silk in your right hand, and roll it up the hook regularly till you bring it in close contact with your left fore-finger and thumb nails, and then tie it down and clip it off; — turn the hook in your hand and hold it by the bend, letting your waxed silk hang where you clipped off* the floss, having left a small por- tion of the hook to tie down the hackles when you bring them up the body, as you finish on the end of the shank; then take hold of the tinsel with your right hand and roll it up over the floss silk body slantingly four or five times, or less according to the size of the hook (taking care to keep the middle finger of your left hand the hook is in tight against both tinsel and hackle at each

9

turn you give over the body) and fasten it with a running knot of the silk ; leave the silk hang- ing, and clip off the tinsel, then take hold of the hackles in your right hand, and turn them slan- tingly from you over the body in rotation with the tinsel, the outsides of the hackle next the body, till you bring them in close contact with the end of the shank (taking care to keep your middle finger, as aforesaid, tight against the hackle at each turn over the body to keep it from slipping off ) ; then tie down the hackles, clip off the ends, and finish with two running knots, and varnish it. Press the fly between your fingers to slant the hackles downwards ; pea- cock's harl is tied on in the same manner as the floss silk, the tinsel rolled over it and then the hackle ; mohair is twisted on the tying silk and rolled up over the body in like manner, then the tinsel and hackle.

10

ON SALMON HOOKS.

The method taken is precisely the same, tying on your salmon hook first, and winding your waxed silk round the shank, before placing on your gut, to prevent slipping. Tip your fly with gold. Observe to tie on your tail, tinsel, hackle, and half your body with finer silk than you tied on your salmon hook with, to prevent your fly from being clumsy at the tail. You may put a turn or two of black ostrich harl at the tail, when you wish to make gaudy flies, tying on your tinsel and hackle close above the ostrich, and casting a running knot over to keep it secure, (see plate v.), then twist your mohair round your waxed silk as above ; turn it round the shank of the hook towards the end to form your body, until you come about one quarter of an inch from the end of the shank ; cast a running knot over it with your silk, turn your hook in your hand and hold it by the bend ; then roll your tinsel up towards the head, the eighth of an inch apart, fasten it as above, then take your hackle, previously tied on at the tail, roll it slantingly up

11

with the tinsel, observing to keep it always on its back, by giving the stem a twist in your fore- finger and thumb, when placing it up the body with your right hand, tie it down as before, (see plate VI.) leaving one-eighth of an inch of your hook bare to receive your wings.

Wax your silk well before tying on the wings, in all cases using a little spirit varnish before and after you tie them on, as it is very essential, especially when you make Irish fly-wings of numerous kinds of feathers. Put on a piece of black ostrich for head, turning it from you with the right hand, after guarding the gut with the silk and placing a running knot over it, close between the ostrich and root of the wings. This gives the fly an appearance of having a neck, and with your little pencil, lay on the varnish, and it never can slip. The wings of Irish sal- mon flies are placed on exactly as in the above trout-fly, keeping the different mixture of fea- thers to be placed on at each side, (or more on the top of your hook), and taking care to press them tight down with your thumb nail, where you tie your silk several times over, clipping off* the refuse ends of the feathers. You may place at each side your wings, kingfisher feathers, (very

12

killing) with two fibres of macaw. You may also place any coloured hackle or feathers you think proper over the part where you have se- cured your wings, and sprig it at each side with gaudy feathers, to keep the large lump occa- sioned by the quantity of feathers tied on invisible.

If my readers would fancy to tie on their trout-fly wings first, let them tie on their hook as before, and at the end of the shank, tie on starling or mallard wings, the tip ends pointing up the gut (see plate vii.), guessing at the same time the length of the wings, when turned, to appear in proportion to the hook ; then begin at the tail of the fly, as aforesaid, put on the body, tinsel and hackle, close up to the wings, tied the reverse way ; divide the wings with your picker, turning your silk in and out, to separate them properly, turn up the wings with your right thumb nail, catching both body and wings in your left hand finger and thumb ; give two turns of your waxed silk over the head to keep the wings down, finishing your fly upon the small bit of the hook remaining at the head. This is my own plan of making trout flies, called the Irish way. They evidently must last longer, the

13

wings being tied on first, turned over the fly, and secured at the head.

TO TIE ON THE IRISH AND SCOTCH SALMON WINGS, AND MIX THE FEATHERS, COLOURS, ETC.

The wings of Irish flies are very difficult to tie on, in as much as there is such a quantity of mixtures. When you have the tail, body, hackle, and tinsel properly put together on the hook, and the eighth of an inch of the end of the shank bare to receive the wings, you then wax the silk and put on a little spirit varnish where you have just tied down the hackle, as it keeps the wings firm ; lay down your fly and mix the wings thus : — First strip off* three fibres of the peacock's wing feather, the black and white, and place them on your knee as you sit, (the like quan- tity for the other wing,) three fibres of brown mallard, and place them even with the above; then three fibres of light spotted turkey's tail feather even with the points of the same, now two fibres of the sword feather of the peacock's tail on each mixed wing, then break off* two pieces of the golden-pheasanf s neck or tippet

14

feather, lay them on in like manner ; then three fibres of blue macaw on each wing, and two fibres of guinea-hen's rump feather, with the same quantity of teal (found underneath the wings of that wild fowl) ; you may wet the points of the fibres in your mouth before you lay them down to keep them together, then place on two fibres of amazon parrot's tail and three of orange macaw's feather ; now having mixed both your wings alike, take up one wing in your right fore- finger and thumb nails and hold it tightly, take up your fly with the left hand, (the silk attached where you tied down the hackle,) place the wing on at the ofF-side of the fly (let it be the eighth of an inch longer than the bend of the hook) take hold of both body and wing with the left fore finger and thumb nails tightly, and with your right hand hold the silk and give two turns over the wing, pressing it well down with the nail of the right hand ; and cast a running knot over it ; then in like manner take up the other wing and place it on, taking care to keep the wings the same length, and hold them tight between your nails to prevent them turning the reverse way ; cast the silk three times over them, and press them down tight with the thumb

15

aail of your right hand, still holding the fly between the nails of your left ; then with the right turn up the refuse ends at the point of the shank and cut them close off; now wax the silk and turn it over the part where you cut off the ends of the feathers, and guard the gut immediately under the point of the shank to prevent the hook from cutting it. Bring the silk back to the root of the wings and cast a running knot over it, place on a little spirit varnish, then take two fibres of the blue and yellow macaw's tail feather, place one at each side two eighths of an inch longer than the wings, give two turns of the silk over them ; here you may put on a blue jay feather, strip off the bad side of this feather and pare the thick part of the stem away with your scissors, place it on as a hackle and turn it over the head the blue side outwards ; slanting over both wing and hackle place a blue kingfisher feather at each side the head, and tie on the black ostrich harl, give two or three turns of it over the head and fasten it off at the roots of the wings with two running knots of the waxed silk, cut it off and lay on a little varnish to secure it (see plate viii,)

16

WINGS OF SCOTCH FLIES.

You may place on the wings of Scotch salmon flies in this manner : —Clip off from the black and white turkey's tail feather two pieces the eighth of an inch wide, and with the left fore- finger and thumb nails hold the fly tight where you are about to place on the wings, then with the right forefinger and thumb place on the off'- side wing the exact length of the bend of the hook, keep it tight between your right hand nails to prevent the fibres from breaking ; let this first wing come under the nail of the fore- finger of your left hand you are holding the fly with, and with the right cast over it two turns of the waxed silk ; now take up the second wing and place it on at the near side in like manner, keep the left thumb nail tight upon it, and give two turns of the silk over both and press them tight down with the right hand thumb nail, now clip off* the ends of the feather and roll the waxed silk closely over it, guarding the gut from the hook, bring the silk back to the roots of the wings and cast two running knots over them, cut off* the silk and varnish the head, (see plate ix.)

17

To mix mohair of different colours for salmon flies — take blue, scarlet, yellow, green, orange, and brown, mix them well together with your fingers and thumbs till they appear as one colour. And when dark mixture is required, add the greater portion of the darker stuff and the light in like manner.

As I have now laid before the angler a perfect method of making his fly, from the largest sal- mon, down to the smallest midge, I will proceed to give a description of what I term the Standard Flies, which I have used in my time with great success on the rivers in Great Britain and Ire- land, and which will kill in any other country where the angler may chance to reside — cele- brated flies, that have afforded capital sport.

i.

Flies de^criled in CaZalocfhit CExoxi Sixf...

3^C.jC».t(iuirt htk

»

19 DESCRIPTION OF FLIES.

I.— The Wren Tail Fly. {Standard.)

Hook f. — Body, Amber mohair.

Tail, Two fibres of the drake feather,

gold tip. Legs or Hackle, Wren tail. Wings, Partridge's grey tail feather.

2. — Grouse Hackle. {May and June.)

Hook fF. — Body, Gold colour or orange silk. Legs, Grouse hackle.* Gold tip.

♦ When yoQ tie on the grouse hackle take hold of the same in your right hand ; and with the left, the point of the same ; draw the fibres back with the right, tie it on at the point, and roll it on the back or outside the feather, as this keeps the hackle slanting down- wards.

B

20

3.— The Ant Fly. (August)

Hook fe. — Body, Cinnamon brown mohair. Legs, Red hackle (small). Wings, Starling's wing feather.

4.— The Sooty Olive Fly. (July.)

Hook f, — Body, Dark olive mohair. Tail, Gold tip.

Legs, Dark olivehackleattheshoulders, Wings, Woodcock or starling.

21

5. — Soldier Palmer Fly. (Standard.)

Hook fF. — Body, Peacock harl. Tail, Tip of gold. Legs, Two black-red hackles at the

shoulder. (Palmer flies have no wings).

6. — Red Palmer Fly, {From May to July.)

Hook fF. — Body, Red or orange mohair, with gold twist or tinsel up the body. Legs, Two red hackles, wound on from the tail up to the head, in ro- tation with the tinsel.

22

7. — Golden Palmer. {July,)

Hook fFf. — Body, Yellow silk and tinsel, rolled on from the tail. Legs, Two red hackles.

8. — Grey Palmer, {April,)

Hook fFf. — Body, Peacock harl, and gold or silver twist, wound up to the head. Legs, Two grey hackles, in like man- ner.

I

23

9.— The Black Palmer. (May.)

Hook flf. — Body, Black mohair or silk, gold tip. Legs, Two black hackles, rolled on from the tail.

10. — The Little Castle Fly. {1st. June.)

Hook fe. — Body, Yellow silk, gold tip.

Tail, Two fibres of mallard, dyed

yellow. Legs, Yellow hackle at the shoulder. Wings, Thrush's wing, or yellow fea- ther.

24

II. ^The Grey Housewife. {April and Sept,)

Hook fF. — Body, Light brown mohair, mixed

with hare's ear fur. Tail, Two fibres of the mallard. Legs, Partridge neck feather, or grey

cock hackle. Wings, Hen pheasant's wing, or grey

drake.

12.— The Stone Fly. {April and May.)

Hook fff. — Body, Brown mohair, mixed with yellow mohair.

Tail, Two fibres of the mallard.

Legs, Black-red hackle, close at the head.

Wings, Brown mallard, or hen phea- sant's tail.

25

13. — Cow Dung Fly. (July.)

Hook f. — Body, Lemon coloured mohair.

Legs, Cinnamon coloured hackle, Wings, Landrail's wing.

14. — Black Gnat. (June.)

Hook fe. — Black ostrich, gold tip.

Legs, Small black hackle. Wings, Starling's wing.

26

15. — The Little Soldier Fly. {Standard.)

Hook fe. — Body, Gold coloured mohair or floss. Legs, Small black-red hackle. Wings, Starling and partridge tail, mixed.

\Q.— Hare's Ear Fly. {March, April, ^c)

Hook f.— Body, Hare's ear fur, and a little yel- low mohair, mixed. Wings, Starhng, bunting, or wood- cock.

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27

17. — Blue Blow Fly. (June.)

Hook Midge. — Body, Mole or water-rat's fur» mixed with yellow mohair. Tail, Mouse's whiskers. Legs, Dun hackle. Wings, Tomtit's tail feather.

18. — The Green Drake. (May.)

Hook fff. — Body, Yellow-green mohair.

Tail, Three hairs from a black bear. Legs, Yellowish hackle. Wings, Mallard, dyed yellow — a black head.

28

19. — Grey Drake, (End of April,)

Hook iff. — Body, Rat's back fur, mixed with yellow mohair. Tail, Three fibres of the mallard. Legs, Grey hackle. Wings, Grey mallard. Head, Peacock harl.

20. — Hawthorn Fly. (May.)

Hook ff.— Body, Black mohair.

Legs, Black hackle, at the shoulder. Wings, Starling or jay wings.

29

21.— The Black Ant. (July,)

Hook f. — Body, Black mohair. Legs, Black hackle. Wings, Water-hen wing, or woodcock.

22.— The Little Gosling. (July,)

Hook fe.— Body, Yellow green mohair.

Legs, Red or cinnamon hackle. Wings, Starling or bunting wing.

30

23. — The Evening Moth.

Hook C. — Body, Cream-coloured mohair, full. Legs, Hackle, same colour as body. Wings, Owl's wing.

2^.— The Bee. {Standard,)

Hook fff. — Body, Yellow tail, then brown, then

black. Legs, Black-red hackle, at the head. Wings, Hen pheasant, or partridge

wings.

31

25. — The Brown Bear. {End of March,)

Hook fF. — Body, Cinnamon brown mohair. Tail, Two fibres of mallard. Legs, Cinnamon hackle. Wings, Woodcock wing.

26. — Faren Fly, (July.)

Hook fe. — Body, Yellow tag at the tail and pea- cock harl. Legs, lied hackle at the shoulder. Wings, Starling wing, or partridge tail.

32

21.— The Midge. {June,)

Hook Midge. — Body, Ash coloured fur.

Tail, Two fibres of a grizzle. Hackles. (No legs). Wings, Bunting wing, or lark. (Fox fur, off the face, or American squirrel.)

28. — The Emerald Fly, {August.)

Hook Midge. — Body, Emerald-green mohair, or

silk. Tail, Two fibres of a grizzle

hackle. Legs, Black-red hackle, (round

the shoulder.) Wings, Starling, or bunting wing.

a3

29,^The Whirling Dun. (June and July.)

Hook f. — Body, Water rat's fur ribbed with yel- low silk. Tail, Two fibres of a dun hackle. Legs, Dun hackle at the shoulder. Wings, Starling wing.

30. — Pismire. (June and July.)

Hook fe. — Body, Brown mohair.

Legs, Small red hackle, wound up from the tail. . (No wings.)

34

31. — Whirling Brown. {August,)

Hook f. — Body, Cinnamon brown mohair. Legs, Red or cinnamon hackle. Wings, Woodcock wing.

I have always found the Natural Flies, of every size, to have a tinge of green throughout the year ; and the greyish colour of the flies in the spring months is precisely the same in the latter end of the season. The angler should examine the natural flies at all times when he is on the stream, and if he perceive that they have a tinge of green, he should mix a little with his standard colours, or if the body of the fly is made of floss silk, he should place the green at the shoulder underneath the hackle, and judge of the shade of green he should use by the appearance of the natural fly.

35

I wish now to give the fly fisher an idea of placing his trout flies on the casting hne ; for instance — put on the wren tail or grouse hackle at the end, the hare's ear or whirling dun in the centre ; the black gnat, blue blow, or midge, next your hand or reel line ; be sure to have the casting line the length of the rod, and keep your reel line out of the water at all times when you cast the flies, as the ripple on the surface is sure to scare the fish.

The best and cheapest mode of procuring an assort- ment of feathers for fly-making is to go to Leadenhall Poultry Market, on Saturday mornings, where cock's hackles of every colour and size, for both trout and salmon flies, from either the living or dead birds, small wings of every variety in their season, turkey and guinea-fowl tail and wing featliers ; mallard, teal, widgeon, and wildfowl feathers of every variety, both British and foreign, can be bought at reasonable prices.

Mohair and other furs can be got from the furriers, pig's hair from the brush manufacturers, floss and tying silk from the mercers, gold and silver twist and tinsel from the laceman, and dyeing materials froiirthe druggists and dry-salters.

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37

The foregoing are what I term Standard Flies, to suit any climate, go where you may, ac- cording to the state of the weather, upon which I will now give a few brief remarks to the angler, that he may know the days in which trout are to be taken with the fly.

In the morning, when the hoar frost is on the grass in the spring, you may stay at home ; otherwise, when the morning appears mild and serene, with the horizon clear at the point from whence the wind blows, and no appearance of heavy clouds or rain, with the wind gently blow- ing dry from the south, let the angler prepare himself for a day's sport, as I know by experience and long patience in angling. On such days as this I have had astonishing success. In sum- mer, early in the morning and late in the evening, he may expect the best sport.

I would advise the angler, when he goes to the water, to observe the colour of the natural flies which frequent the banks, and prepare his casting-line accordingly ; he should make it a point, if possible, to fish on that bank of the stream from which the wind blows, throwing his flies to the opposite side, and drawing them gently across the stream, allowing them to fall gradually down-

38

wards, until they come close to the bank on which he stands ; then the angler, with a smart spring of his rod, should pitch the flies, at full length, behind him — to prevent his fly from whipping off* — and with a sudden jerk of the wrist, cast his flies high over the stream, keep- ing his rod well up at the top ; his flies will thus light on the water, without the least ripple or disturbance of the surface. To keep out of sight is of the first importance. By this method, in one day's fishing, the angler may become skilful in casting his fly. When a fish rises at the fly, let the angler be careful not to strike imme- diately, but give him time to turn and go down, as he has the fly then in his mouth, and in this manner hooks himself; whereas, if you strike suddenly on his appearance, you are apt to whip the fly out of his mouth, or, if you chance to hook him, frequently break your rod or tackle.

THE FEATHERS REQUISITE FOR FLY MAKING, AND WHERE FOUND.

The mallard feathers, found on the back and underneath the wings. Teal feathers, under- neath the wings. Turkey tails of all kinds, par- ticularly black and white, spotted and brown.

39

Peacock wings and tail feathers. Golden phea- sant feathers, and all other foreign feathers which the angler can procure. Blue kingfishers. Guinea-hen feathers, rump and back. Starling wings. Bunting wings. Woodcock wings. Hen pheasant, wings and tail. Partridge tail, rump, and neck. Grouse feathers off the neck. Wren tails. Tomtit tails. Landrails wings. Starling wings. Blue dun cock hackles off the neck, close to the head, for midge flies.

Dun crow back feather, for making the gil- leruigh fly. Thus — Body, yellow silk, silver tinsel from the tail up. Legs, black hackle, and dun crow at the shoulder, (A particular favourite).

Cock-of-the-north tail and rump feathers. Game or dunghill cock hackles, off the head and neck, and the saddle feathers or hackles each side the tail, of every colour.

The white hackles for dyeing.

Now, to enable my brothers of the angle to judge of the success attendant upon this mode of fly-making and dyeing the colours, I confidently affirm, that with only three of the flies I have described in the foregoing pages, I have killed thirty dozen of trout in one day,

40

upon the Ochrem Water, which meets the Ovoca, in the vale of that name, County Wicklow, Ire- land, where there is a capital inn, at the wooden bridge, near Arklow, about four hours' ride by coach from Dublin. The three flies I allude to, are, the wren-tail, hare's-ear and yellow, and the little soldier-fly.

REMARKS UPON SALMON FLIES (GOOD KILLERS), FISHED WITH BY THE AUTHOR,

Recommended to those who fish on the rivers in Ireland and Scotland.

There are few better fishing rivers in Ireland thann the Ban, at Bevannachar, near Kill- reagh, which divides the counties Antrim and Derry, and runs northward to the Salmon-Leap of Colraine. When the wind blows up the stream you are sure of success, as under these circumstances, in this river, the fish take the fly more freely. There are three Olive Flies not mentioned in the catalogue, good killers on the Ban (for trout), the green Olive, the golden Olive, and dark Olive, very small flies — fe. hook. These are made of mohair, no hackles, starling and woodcock wings.

l5^ Salmon Fly, Yellow- tail golden pheasant crest. Body, claret pig-hair and gold tinsel.

41

Legs, claret hackle. Wings, mallard, turkey light brown, and golden pheasant neck, feathers mixed : black head. — Hook 9.

2nd Fly. Body, half orange, half claret, gold tinsel. Legs, claret hackle, and jay. Wings and tail as above.

2rd Fly, Body, orange pig-hair, gold twist. Legs, orange hackle. Tail, golden pheasant top- ping and black ostrich tag. Wings, golden phea- sant neck, tail, and crest. Black head. Whiskers of blue and yellow macaw each side the wing.

Ath Fly. Body, gold coloured pig-hair, and wine purple three parts up to the head, (darken your flies always towards the shoulder, this 4th fly exjcepted, which must have gold colour pig- hair at the head). Legs, wine purple hackle. Wings and tail as above. Gold and silver twist. Hook 9. Large size.

5th Fly. Body, olive pig-hair. Legs, olive hackle. Tail, topping. Wings, mallard and topping. Black head.— Hook 9.

THE RIVER BUSH, BUSHMILLS,

A small river near the Giant's Causeway, north of the Ban, swarming with salmon in the spring and summer.

42

1st Fly. Body, orange and gold twist. Tail, topping small. Legs, claret or blood-red hackle. Wings, brown mallard. Black head.-Hook CC.

2nd Fly. Body, orange and gold twist. Legs, orange hackle. Tail and head as above. Wings, gaudy feathers. — Hook C.

3rd Fly. Body, amber mohair and gold twist. Legs, amber hackle, from the tail up. Wings, brown mallard. — Hook CC.

4th Fly, Body, tipped with yellow mohair, dark brown up to the shoulder. Legs, black hackle. Wings, brown turkey or mallard.

5th Fly. Body, copper- coloured peacock harl and gold tinsel, from the tail up. Legs, black hackle, close at the head. Wings, sword feather of the peacock's tail. Head, black os- trich and topping for tail.

Have different jointed bodies of pig-hair and dyed hackle, red, purple, orange, wine purple, blue, claret, browns, black, and dark-green, succes- sively ; wings, very large, and as gaudy as pos- sible, with gold pheasant topping, neck, tail, and back feathers, macaw yellow and blue. Red ditto. Cock-of-the-Rock feathers. Blue kings-

43

fisher. Jay ditto. Amazon parrot, tail feathers. Bustard, toucan, and trogon feathers. Brown mallard, turkey, teal, guinea-hen, peacock tail and wings. Gold twist, and flat silver, put on together. The colours above-mentioned have been recently discovered to kill on the rivers Tweed, Ness, Spey, and also in the islands of Islay and Jura, in Scotland. The two last- mentioned places require very small gaudy fliesw

HOOKS.

Phillips's hooks being alphabetically numbered up to BB, I will explain the sizes, commencing with the smallest, that my pupils may not be misled. 1st. Midge size, fe, f, fF, fff, trout hooks. C, lake, CC, size larger, salmon hooks. B, small salmon, BB, a size larger. Nos. 9. 8. 7. 6. 5. 4. are large salmon hooks, the last fi- gure being the largest hook. — {Phillips , Maker j Dublin).

44

RECEIPTS FOR DYEING,

Provide a small crucible, or pot, with a handle, to contain one quart of water. Before you dye your pighair or mohair, you must scour it in urine and water of equal parts, allowing half an hour to boil off. Have a small piece of clean wood to stir each of your dyes. Before entering into the particulars of dyeing your stuff or hackles, it is necessary to give an idea of the primary or principal colours, which are five in number, viz. blue, red, yellow, brown, and black, each of these can furnish a great number of shades, from the lightest to the darkest ; and from the combi- nation of two or more of these different shades, arise all the colours in nature.

FOR BLUE.

Fill your crucible three parts full of soft river water, put it on a slow fire, at the same time, put in a tea- spoon full of paste blue, to be had at the dry-salters. Stir it well ; when it is more than lukewarm, take a table spoonful of cold water, drop into it twelve drops of oil of vitriol, put this in your blue dye, and then put in a quarter of an ounce of pighair, hackles, or mo- hair, (previously scoured) remarking, at the same time, to wet your stuff in hot water, and wring it be- fore putting it into the dye. Boil it slowly fifteen or twenty minutes, take it out with your piece of wood, and immediately immerge it in a pan of cold water, (as oil of vitriol will not stand the air). Dry your stuff, and your colour will be fine.

45

FOR RED.

Put into your crucible, water, as above, boil in it two handfuls of Brazil wood with your stuff, (a quarter of an ounce of pig-hair or mohair) half an hour, then take it out and cool your dye with a little cold water, before you put in the oil of vitriol, (quantity as above, or a little more if required,) then put in your stuff; let it simmer slowly one hour on a slow fire ; take it out, immerge it immediately as above ; wring or dry it; your red will be lasting. If you would have a beautiful claret, add first to the red wood, or Brazil wood, half the quantity of logwood ; and, in the second boiling, put in the size of a pea of copperas, dissolved in a little of the liquor, with a bit of pearl-ash the size of a nut — boil it one hour as above. Be careful to cool your liquor before you put in the oil of vitriol in all cases.

Oil of vitriol is so useful a thing in dyeing, that, by the help of its acid, you may produce any lasting colour.

FOR YELLOW.

Water, as above; put in one handful of bruised Persian Berries, and boil them one hour, then add two table spoonfuls of turmeric. Put in your acid, and then your quarter of an ounce of mohair, hackles, &c., let it boil half an hour — immerge it in cold water — your yellow will be brilliant. By adding one table spoonful of Brazil wood, you have a beautiful orange.

FOR BROWN.

Water as before; boil a good handful of walnut rind, and a very small quantity of red wood, and the

4t>

size of a wallnut of logwood, half an hour, put in your mohair, a quarter of an ounce (cooling your liquor before the acid is put in), boil it half an hour longer, and your colour will be lasting. If you would have a cinnamon or yellow, fiery, brown, &c. first dye your pighair, mohair, or hackles yellow. Add to the ingre- dients according to the quantity of your stuff.

FOR BLACK.

Water as before; boil two handfuls of logwood, one hour ; add a little shumac and elder bark. Boil these ingredients together half an hour, when your hair may be entered and boiled half-an-hour. Take out your hair ; cool your liquor ; dissolve a bit of coppe- ras the size of a Spanish nut, put it into your liquor, adding a little argil and soda. Boil it half-an-hour ; take out your mohair occasionally, as the air contri- butes to its colour, and your black will be the colour of a raven's feather.

The mixture of Blue and Red produces a Purple — boiled together, adding oil of vitriol as before.

The mixture of Blue and Claret produces Wine Purple.

The mixture of Blue and Yellow, produces Greens of all shades.

The mixture of Blue, Red, and Yellow, Bright Olives, darkened with Logwood— apply Oil of Vitriol, as above.

You may produce any shade you require by the different mixtures.

47

FOR FLAME-COLOURED SCARLET.

Water as above; bruise one table-spoonful of cochineal to a powder ; add a tea-spoonful of crys- tal of tartar to the water before your cochineal goes in ; boil your mohair also in the tartar and water, then take out your mohair or pig-hair, put in your cochineal, with a tea-spoonful of the composition liquid ;* boil the stuff half an hour, and your scar- let will be beautiful. (The oil of vitriol must be kept from this dye.)

* Composition for Scarlet. — Take half a pint of spirits of nitre, add to it an equal quantity of clear river water ; dissolve in it, little by little, a quarter of an ounce of white salt ammoniac (because spirits of nitre alone will not dissolve block tin) ; add one drachm of saltpetre ; dissolve half an ounce of block tin, made small, by casting it into cold water — these small grains of tin are put into the dissolvent, one by one, letting the first dissolve before putting in others — this keeps in the red vapours, necessary for the gold colour of your liquor. (This mixture is to be had at the dry-salters, under the name of grain spirits. Common aquafortis dropped into a little cold water will answer the same purpose.) — Ent. Sia. Mall,

A

48

FOR STAINING GUT,

Boil a tea-spoonful of alum in a pint of water ; add a piece of logwood the size of a large nut, and of copperas the size of a pea ; dip in one hundred of gut three minutes, and you will have the desired colour.

Wash your feathers in spirits of turpentine to keep them from the moth — camphor also preserves them from that devouring insect.

Boil a piece of pitch the size of an egg, with a little rosin, and a small quantity of tallow grease, half an hour, in a pot ; then take a piece of pointed wood, dip in the end, and allow the boiling pitch to remain on it till cold, lay your finger on it and bend it downwards — if it chips off it is not sufficiently boiled — if it bends you may take it off the fire, cool it in lumps, and put it in a small basin of cold water until you require to use it.

Boil three or four handfuls of fustic in two quarts of soft water until it becomes one, drain it off the wood into a clean vessel (have another ves- sel for the hackles or feathers) ; put into it a table- spoonful of alum and half the quantity of tartar, pour on these a pint of boiling water, let them

49

remain in a quarter of an hour, take them out and put them in the fustic liquor ; place it again on the fire, and let them simmer for two hours, take them out of the dye, and wash them in cold water, and your yellow will be choice. (If you boil the alum and tartar together with the fustic, your colour will turn out a sullied lemon shade.)

A TABLE

OF ALL THE PROCESS TAUGHT IN THE FOLLOWING CATECHISM OF FLY-MAKING.

1. — The hook is tied on the gut

2. — The wings are tied on at the end of the shank, the reverse way.

3. — The hackle is tied on at the point, with the tinsel to rib the body.

4. — The tail and body is formed.

5. — The tinsel is rolled up, and then the hackle, in like manner.

6. — The wings are turned in their proper place, the head formed, and secured with the tying silk.

(See the Trout-flies to suit the rivers Ribhle and Hodder, Lancashire, page 68. — Angling stations on both : the former at Milton, Lancashire, the latter at White well, Yorkshire ^ route, from Manchester.)

W. BLACKER S

CATECHISM OF FLY-MAKING.

Question, — What do you mean by fly-making ?

Answer, — I mean the artificial assimilation of those beautiful insects that appear on brooks and rivers during the summer season.

Q, — What are these artificial flies used for in general ?

A. — They are principally used to afford gentle- men rural amusement and recreation, by their taking both Trout and Salmon with the rod, line, and fly.

Q, — Name the different materials requisite for making the artificial fly ?

A, — The necessary materials for making the fly are as follow : various kinds of feathers, furs, mo- hair, pig hair (dyed), silks, tinsel, &c.— (See pages 4 and 38.)

Q. — When the student has all the materials prepared, and seated at the table, how does he commence to make the fly?

A, — First, the hook is firmly tied on the gut.

51

and one-eighth of an inch of the end of the shank left bare to receive the wings.

Q, — How are the wings tied on ?

A. — They may be tied on the reverse way first, at the extreme point of the shank ; afterwards, the tail, body, and hackle is secured ; then turn them up and form the head. — ( See plate 1.)

Q. — Is there any other way of placing on the wings of a Trout-fly ?

A, — Yes ; by forming the tail, body, and hackle first, and then tie on the wings. — f See plate 4 on Salmon-hooks.)

Q, — Having tied on the wings the reverse way, to appear the exact length of the hook when turned, what is the next part to be performed ?

A. — Next, I take hold of the shank opposite the barb in my left, and here tie on a short piece of tinsel for the tip, roll it over two or three times, and secure it with a running knot; immediately above this tie on the tail.*

* If it is a Salmon fly you are making, the additional materials to be placed on above the tip and tail are, a tag of floss silk, then a roll or two of black ostrich harl — these may be omitted in Scotch Salmon-flies — (See the Insh and Scotch fly, plates 8 and 9.^ You may also joint a Salmon- fly with several coloured hackles. The process of making the Trout and Salmon flies is equally the same. — C*^^^ the Salmon-fly wing in the plate of feathers,)

A 2 *

52

Q. — When the wings are tied on reversed, the tip and tail secured, how do you form the body ?

A. — I take hold of the hook in my left by the shank close to the tail, as before, and with my right draw out a small quantity of mohair, twist it tightly round the tying silk close to the hook, draw it gradually up full towards my hand (that when tied on the fly may appear taper in the body), I then roll it closely over the shank towards my left, and as I bring it up, shift my hand out of the way to the root of the wings, and fasten it. (Leave a vacancy to receive the hackle if tied on at the shoulder.)

Q. — If there is not sufficient mohair twisted on the silk to form the whole body, what must be done?

A, — When the mohair on the silk becomes short, I tie it down on the centre of the shank (the hackle's point may be tied on here, at the tail, or round the shoulder, according to the appearance of the natural fly, or the description), then apply a little more stuff to finish the remainder of the body. — f See plate 2»)

Note, — Be careful to leave a sufficient portion of the end of the shank to receive the wings ; or.

53

if they are tied on Jirst, leave a little of the end in like manner, that when they are turned you may secure the head, guard the gut, and make a neat finish.

Q. — Having tied the hackle's point on the cen- tre of the body, how do you strike it in its proper place ?

A. — Holding the hook by the bend in my left, with the right I take hold of the root of the hackle, roll it slantingly over the body, in close contact with the tinsel to the shoulder, and fasten with a running knot.* — (See plate 1 .)

Q, — The hackle, body, tail, and tip of tinsel now neatly tied ; how are the wings turned and secured in their proper place ?

A* — I now hold the fly in my left by the body ; draw the fibres underneath my finger and thumb out of the way, and with the picker divide the wings (see plate 7 ) ; turn up the off wing first,

* The tinsel rolled all the way up may be omitted, ex- cept in lake or salmon -flies j and when you are rolling the hackle on, keep the middle finger you hold the hook with tight against it, to keep it from turning off, and reserve the black root for the shoulder ; take two or three extra turns here, to give the fly a full appearance.

54

lay it under my left finger, and give a turn of the silk over the root ; then the near wing in like manner ; lay it under my thumb, let the hackle spring up between them ; take two turns of the silk over both, and fasten on the small bit of shank end.

Note. — You may guard the gut at the extreme end of the shank : after turning the wings, bring the silk back to the head, and give two running knots on the hook ; cut ofi* the silk, and lay on a little varnish.

To adjust — Take the fly in your left by the gut, and with the right middle finger, shot from under the thumb, strike the bend of the hook scientifically, and the fibres of your fly will project systematically. — ( See plate 4.J

The foregoing method of fly -making being rather difficult for a young beginner, I have given my pupils a much easier way in the following chapter ; although I particularly recommend the first, in consequence of the fly turning out, when finished, more like nature ; and it is a plan I am partial to, as the head and wings appear so pretty when turned, and the fulness of the shoulder occasions them to stand perpendicular.

55

A SECOND METHOD OF MAKING THE TROUT-FLY.

Question. — How do you commence to make the fly in this way ?

Answer, — I tie on the wings first, as in the fore- going method, turn them up immediately and form the head, begin the body and legs here, and finish the fly at the tail.

Q, — When the wings are tied on first, and turned, before you commence the body and legs, how do you proceed ?

A, — I take a small hackle to suit the size of the hook, strip ofi* the flue, and tie it on by the root at the head. (You may tie on a piece of tinsel here.)

Q. — Having tied on the hackle thus, what is the next thing to be done ?

A, — I draw out a little mohair, twist it tightly round the tying silk, roll it closely over the shank until opposite the barb, give a running knot, and then roll on the tinsel.

Q. — The body and tinsel being now neatly formed, how is the hackle struok on ?

A. — I take hold of the extreme point of the hackle, that projects at the head, in my small

56

pliers,* place my right forefinger in the hook, and roll it over the body towards the tail, in close con- tact with the tinsel ; give two running knots, and cut off both silk and hackle point.

Note. — You may tie on either floss silk, peacock harl, or mohair for the body, commencing at the shoulder, and finishing at the tail ; twist the harl round the tying silk to prevent its coming off, from the friction of the fishes' teeth. The weight of the pliers keeps the hackle in its proper place at the tail, when securing it with the silk.

THE PALMER MADE EASY.

Wishing to give my pupils every opportunity in my power of becoming proficients in this delicate and gentlemanly art, I have given them in the following instructions a much easier method of making the palmer, or hairy worm, than that taught in page 7. And having hitherto omitted every thing in the way of trolling tackle, in conse-

* Hold the hook always by the bend, in the left. In this mode of fly-making, tie on the hackle by the roots at the end of the shank, and roll it either through the wings or take two turns of it underneath them, and then down to the tail ; or you may roll it round the shoulder only, and then form the body, tinsel and tail.

57

quence of its being so ably described in Salter's clever little work on the subject ; and to insinuate another preventive from so doing, was, my dislike to this sort of angling ; nevertheless, I will not permit the Pike-fly to escape me, it being by far the most gentlemanly way of fishing for Jack — it is a method I have usually adopted with great suc- cess, using for the purpose a salmon rod with a stiff top ; and instead of casting the fly over my head, as the Salmon-fly is generally thrown, pitch it into the water sideways, to prevent a sudden ripple or merge, as this scares the fish ; walking either up or down the river, lake, &c. ; and when fishing, play it upon the surface, as I would the Sal- mon-fly.—(aS'^^ the spinning tackle described and taught in the sequel, J

TO MAKE THE PALMER OR HACKLE-FLY.

Question, — Is there an easier method of making the palmer than that taught in page 7 ?

Answer, — Yes, much easier, yet not so neat or perfect.

Q, — How is the palmer commenced in this way ?

A, — Having previously tied on the hook and gut, I take two hackles of equal size, strip ofi* the

58

flue, tie them on by the roots at the point of the shank, back to face, and then the tinsel.

Q, — How do you form the body and tinsel after tying on the hackles by the roots ?

A. — I twist some mohair round the tying silk, roll it down the shank to the tail, and fasten it with a running knot, over this the tinsel.

Q. — How are the hackles struck ?

A* — I take hold of the hackles with my pliers at the extreme points ; roll them twice round the shoulder closely, and then down to the tail, (the weight of the pliers keeps the hackles in their place, until you give two knots over them, cut off both silk and points, and lay on a little varnish to secure the rope,) press your fly between your fingers to slant the hackles.

In making the palmer thus, you may either roll the hackles round the trottle, and then form the body ; or roll them from the shoulder to the tail, over the mohair, floss silk, or peacock's harl ; when you are rolling on two, keep them close to- gether on their edge, and let the hoop of the pliers turn round your finger in their progress to the tail. — fSee the two hackles tied together for the 'palmer fly in the plate of feathers *)

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TO MAKE THE PIKE-FLY.

Question.— The Pike or Jack-fly being consider- ably larger than the Trout or Salmon ; how do you undertake to make it ?

Ansiv€y\— In the first place, I take two Limerick hooks. No. 7, large size, and tie them firmly to- gether with strong waxed silk, in the form of a grappling iron, to these I attach sixteen inches of strong gymp and loop it at the other end, (you may guess what this loop is for.) — ( See plate \.)

Q. — The hooks and gymp now secured, what is the next process ? (Do not forget the varnish.)

A. — Holding the hooks in my left by the shanks, opposite the barb, I roll on a piece of broad tinsel to tip the fly first, and then four or five different coloured hackles for tail, (tie on toppings if you please).

Q. — How do you commence to build or form the body of this large size fly ?

A* — Having previously provided myself with six or eight pieces of well-dyed pig hair to joint the body, I still hold the hooks by the shanks in my left, and above the tail I tie on a large size tag

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of floss ; I here also tie on a long piece of tinsel to rib the fly, and then the two large size cock hackles. — (See plate 2,) I then twist a piece of yellow mohair on the silk, roll it up one-eighth of an inch, and fasten with a running knot. — (See the hackles prepared at the points in the plate of feathers.)

Q. — The body being so far formed, how do you proceed with the remainder ?

A. — Still holding the hooks in my left, I draw out a piece of blue or orange pig hair, and twist it on the silk in like manner ; roll it up one-eighth of an inch, and so on to the shoulder, with red, purple, claret, green, &c. — (See the body of plate the second,)

Q, — This done, how are the two large saddle - cock hackles struck on ?

A, — I now turn the hooks and hold them by the bend, and with the right take hold of the two hackles, (previously tied together at the roots of the stems to keep them even,) roll them up slant- ingly towards the shoulder in close contact with the tinsel, leave a vacancy at the end of the shank to receive two or three different coloured hackles,

61

and fasten with a knot.* — (See the hackles rolled on plate 3.^

Q. — The fly being so far completed, how are the wings tied on ?

A. — I take two peacock moon feathers, strip oiF the fibres from the stems, and cut them one inch longer than the fly ; tie them on at the vacancy left at the end of the shank, keeping the brilliant sides outwards, (you may tie them on the reverse way, turn them back as you did the Trout-fly wings, and tie on golden pheasant feathers in like manner, to prevent them drawing out.)

Note. — Be careful to use the right thumb nail when tying on the wings, press them down tightly every turn of the silk, and lay on a little varnish. — {See page 13.)

Q, — The two moon feathers being now firmly tied on, what other feathers are appropriate ?

A. — To complete the wings, I tie on two or three

* When you are rolling on two large hackles over a very long body, shift your left the hook is held in, after you have half the feather tied on, higher up the shank, and do not forget to keep the same hand middle finger tight against them in their progress to the shoulder, and here roll on two or three extra hackles of various colours.

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golden pheasant neck feathers, each side the pea- cock moons, and outside of these a blue jay ; (you may tie on any gaudy feathers you please for the wings of the Pike-fly. — (^See the Irnsh Salmon-Jiy wing prepared in the plate of feathers.)

Q. — The wings now secured, how do you form the head, and place on the eyes ?

A. — I take a blue glass bead and string it on the tying silk, bring it to the off side first, then the near side bead in like manner, drawing the silk two or three times through each, and secure them with two running knots close to the roots of the wings. — ( Observe the instructions in page 13.)

Q, — How do you cover the lump occasioned by the quantity of tying silk at the head ?

A, — I draw out a small quantity of pig hair, twist it on the tying silk, and roll it over, in and out between the beads, then behind them close to the roots of the wings ; give three running knots, lay on a little varnish, cut off the cable, and the fly is complete. — (See the Irish Salmon fly jointed^ jjlate 8.y>

The Pike is generally considered the Shark of our fresh water lakes and rivers, so also may he be justly termed the wolf of the tide, in consequence

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of his ferociousness ; the angler is obliged to make use of the stronoj-est tackle imaofinable to secure him, and when he is hooked on the minnow or fly, he is more like a bull dog than a fish at the end of the line. He takes full possession of the waters he haunts, and destroys more Trout and Salmon- fry, in the course of the season, than all the anglers put together; frogs, mice, rats, birds, or any other substance he sees moving in his native element, will be acceptable to his gluttonous propensities ; and even his own species, approaching his size, he will rush at, open mouthed, and devour, if possible. I have known him to snap oflP a Salmon-fly, tied on a treble gut, as easily as you would break a bulrush between the hands.

When the angler hooks a Jack, he should be vigilant and bring him to land as soon as possible, if he is of small dimensions, or else keep him as tightly on the rod and line as their strength will allow, when large, and lead him into deep water, free from sedge or weeds ; give him the but, or he will most undoubtedly extricate himself. You must provide yourself with the strongest gymp, and be- fore you attach it to the large hooks, take every precaution to secure them with strong waxed silk,

b2

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and by no means neglect the varnish; when you are tying on the gymp, let it come down the shank in close contact with the tip or barbs, to give it a good hold ; double up the silk that is in the interior of the wire, and wrap it down tightly, as this makes it permanent. The beautiful plumage of the pea- cock furnishes the angler with most essential materials for making this kind of fly : the moon and sword feathers of the tail, are excellent for wings and hackles, the former for winging, the latter to roll round the trottle ; the blue feathers of the neck, and the bronze color of the body, are also appropriate for thatching (with golden pheasant neck feathers) the bodies of Pike-flies — these large sized flies must be, as it were, built with a quantity of various sorts of feathers, to sail the large hooks on the surface. The beginning of autumn, and onwards, is the best season for Jack fishing.

In addition to the catalogue of flies, page 18, I have given my pupils a few more gems to enrich their fly case, (standard, or genuine killers,) for Trout fishing.

Hook f. 1 . THE FIRE FLY. Juhj ^ Aug.

No. 9 or 10. Body — copper coloured peacock

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harl, gold tip, yellow tag short. Legs — a small red hackle rolled round the trottle. Wings — partridge, the grey and red feathers mixed, (varied with gold twist up the body) and black red hackle ; some use a black hackle. One of each will be found useful. The following fly is another imitation of the green drake, (see the green drake, P^g^ 27, y/ made with India-rubber for body ; the grouse and the golden plover hackles may also be made in a similar manner, to suit these months, in the evening. Body — gold tinsel, rolled closely over the tying silk, (you may roll on gold colour silk, under the India-rubber instead, from the tail to the head), then wrap the thin cut India-rubber over this, in like manner ; the gold shews transparent through this substance. Tail — three hairs of a black horse mane. Legs — partridge, grouse, or dyed yellow hackle, rolled on at the trottle, (lay on a Httle yellow-green mohair here) Wings — dyed mal- lard, full, black head. Hook, c. or f f f. No. 7.

TO MAKE THE INDIA-RUBBER FLT^.

The gut is tied on the top of the hook, and to extend two-eighths of an inch beyond the bend ; then take the three horse hairs, tie them on the end

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of the gut, for tail ; then tie on the end of a piece of gold tinsel, at the extreme point of the tail, and roll it closely all the way up to the shoulder ; then take the piece of thin cut India-rubber, and tie the smallest end on the point of the gut tail, then draw it out to its full length, and roll it over the end of gut, the body, to the shoulder, closely ; keep the middle finger against it to prevent it turning off, and when you are rolling it over the projecting piece of gut, hold it tightly between the nails of the left, move them out of the way, as you gradually bring the India-rubber to the shoulder, with the right, give two or three turns, and a running knot, here, to secure it. When you bring the India- rubber up to the head, catch it under the nail of the left thumb, and then the knot. My pupils may guess, by this method of tying, how essential it is to hold the hook by the shank in the left, when forming the body, and by the bend, when rolling on the hackle and tinsel. You may vary the size of the hooks, from f f f. to midge, when you wish to make small flies in this way, (observe to wing ihem last, see plate 5, and the instructions in pages 6 and 7 ).

An excellent killing fly, recommended for the

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spring and autumn. Body — hare's ear (the dark) mixed with water rat's fur and yellow mohair, of equal parts, (pick it out at the shoulder to imitate legs). Wings — snipe wing. Hook, f e., f f , or No. 9 to 12 : fished with in low water. Varied thus — the light part of the hare's ear mixed with rat's fur and yellow mohair. Legs — partridge hackle (off the neck), rolled on at the trottle, (if too long, cut it). Wings — partridge wing ; on some flies use the tail. Tail — two fibres of mallard, hen pheasant tail, or partridge grey. This last imitation resembles Bowlker's well-known March brown. {See the red spinner alsoy hy the same author ^ for these months).

The following five beautiful flies in miniature, are excellent killing specimens, to suit the river Axe, Devonshire ; they are strongly recommended by a celebrated angler, a gentleman and true sportsman, author of " The Sportsman in France" and ^' The Sportsman in Canada." He positively declares, although you had gold flies, or all the tints of the rainbow, to entice the Trout to rise, yet none but the following will insure success in this lovely stream. (They are inserted by his per- mission, as I received them ; he tells me, they are

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from the pen of a reverend gentleman, an excellent hand at the fly.)

1. WREN TAIL.

Hook very small (midge). Body — yellow silk, and in some specimens a little gold twist ; hackle, either the wren's tail feather, (see the wren tail feather prepared below, plate 7,) or the small red feather on the cock grouse head.

2. IRON BLUE.

Hook much smaller than the pattern fly (pattern hook, ff, or No. 10; proper size, f, or No. 12). Body — very thin, fur as sent (light dun), warped up with pale yellow silk ; hackle and whisks, color of the enclosed; (a brown red cock hackle). Wings — skittig, or water rail.

3.— YELLOW DUN, OR UPRIGHT.

Hook much smaller than the patteni fly, but not so small as the Iron blue, (hook, fe., No. 12 or 13). Body — pale yellow silk, a little waxed ; hackle and whisks, color sent (a yellow grizzle hackle). Wings — thrush, or land rail.

N.B. — The thrush is of a yellowish, and the land rail a reddish hue.

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4 THE ALLER OR ALDER FLY,

Hook same size as the yellow dun. Body — silk, the color of a copper tea kettle stained with smoke, (that is to say, chesnut) ; blue black hackle.* Wings — redstart's tail feather, or partridge red.

5. — PARTRIDGE OR GROUSE HACKLE.

Hook size of yellow dun. Body — ^brown fur, wrapped up with fine silver twist ; and either a brown partridge or grouse hackle. (A fly of each will be found serviceable).

The foregoing specimens will be found most essential for Trout fishing in mountain streams, in Wales, Scotland, Ireland, and England, with the following imitations, found in the large cap of a professor of the craft. 1. Body — hare's ear fur (the dark) mixed with brown mohair (taper), picked out at the trottle to imitate legs. Wings — brown mallard drawn very short. 2. Body — hare's ear fur, mixed with olive mohair; it may be varied thus : — golden olive, sooty and green, mixed with the hare's ear fur. Wings — starling wing (picked out at the head). 3. Hare's ear fur only,

* Hackle from the ear of a raven or crow — the pattern sent is a shop fly, and by no means a correct specimen.

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mallard, or woodcock's wing. 4. Hare's fur, mixed with orange mohair and starling's wing; these flies may be tied on midge, fe, f, ff ; or Nos. 13, 12, 10, or 9. 5. Body — peacock harl, gold tip, and tag of yellow silk. Legs — two black hackles, rolled from the tail up or at the shoulder, (varied with black, red hackles, and winged with grey partridge feather). 6. Cinnamon brown body, gold tip. Tail — two fibres of mallard, and small brown red hackle at the trottle ; starling or w^ood- cock wings ; they may be also varied thus : — black hackle over the brown body, and a cinnamon hackle over a yellow body ; or this body, with black hackle and teal wings, (the teal feathers are found under the wings of that wild fowl.)

Three flies for the rivers Doon and Stincher, at the town of Ayr, Scotland. 1. Red hackle, and starling wing; body made of the yellow waxed silk the fly is tied with. 2. Black hackle instead of red, same wings. 3. Hare's ear fur, dark ; starling, bunting, or stormy petrel wings. The best coloured silks for working are yellows, for tying hare's ear, and yellow, or dun flies ; orange and red, for brown and red bodies ; and blue silk, for black, blue, claret^ &c.

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THE GOLDEN PLOVER HACKLE,

For Evening, in August and the Autumn,

Hook ff. No. 8. Body — gold tinsel, rolled closely over the waxed silk, wrapped over with thin cut India-rubber. Legs — golden plover back feather (the large feathers suit Salmon-flies) rolled round the trottle. The light brown grouse hackle may be made in this way, they are both exquisite flies. {See the grouse hackle, prepared in the plate of feathers). Gold coloured silk is also very good under the India-rubber.

THE NEEDLE FLY, OR HARRY LONG LEGS.

Hook fff or Nos. 6 & 7. Body — light dun, mixed with hare's ear fur (the dark), and a few hairs of yellow mohair, made taper, long, and thin. Legs — a large brown red cock hackle, (off the saddle) rolled on at the trottle. Wings — hen phea- sant tail, mixed with brown mallard. This is an excellent killer, ribbed with gold, for the evening. (See the annotation on Trout fishing, page 37.)

PARTRIDGE HACKLE.

Hook ff No. 8. Body — hare*s ear fur, mixed with yellow mohair, and partridge back feather

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round the trottle, (it may be ribbed with yellow silk).

THREE DUN PALMERS.

Hookf. No. 10. 1. Body — light hare's ear, mixed with a little yellow mohair, ribbed with yellow silk ; light dun hackle rolled at the trottle.

Hook fe. No. 12. 2. Body — yellow dun, ribbed with light green silk. Legs — yellow dun hackle at the shoulder.

HooJcfe, No. 12. 3. Body — dun mohair (water rat) ribbed with yellow silk. Legs — dark dun, or grizzle hackle, round the trottle. Varied thus : — Body — silver tinsel, rolled closely over the bare waxed silk, with a dun hackle at the shoulder, (use large size hooks for night fishing, ^^J^/! or Nos. 3, 6, 7). Mouse and genet fur is very useful, when the water rat cannot be procured.

FOUR CELEBRATED EVENING FLIES FOR THE THAMES AT WEYBRIDGE, SURREY.

1. Body— fiery brown mohair ribbed with gold tinsel. Tail — yellow tuft of mohair or topping. Wings — hen pheasant's tail. (You may use a little yellow under the hackle at the head; it should be struck from the tail up.) Legs — a brown red hackle.

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2. Body — brown and yellow mohair, mixed ; hackle and tinsel, as above. Wings — brown mallard. — Hook h or c. No. 5 or 6.

3. Body — copper coloured peacock harl, made full, and ribbed with flat gold ; hackle as above. Wings same as the first fly.

4. Body— very gaudy, of bright yellow-green silk or mohair, ribbed with gold twist, and flat sil- ver tinsel. Tail — golden pheasant topping, long. Legs — a bright yellow-green dyed hackle, from the tail up (jay feather at the shoulder). Wings — two toppings and tw) neck feathers of the golden pheasant, sprigged each side with the tail feather of the same bird, yellow-green parrot, sword feather of the peacock, yellow and blue ma- caw feelers, argus pheasant, peacock's wing, silver pheasant and bustard's feathers, two fibres of each (let the two toppings extend two -eighths of an inch longer than the other sprigging, except the two fibres of blue and yellow macaw tail feather). It may be made with the golden plover back feather for

hackle, and is a good killer on the Tweed Hook

No. 9.

TWO CHUB FLIES.

Hook c. No. 5 and 6. Body — yellow tag at

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the tail, then orange, then red, then black (or it may be made with orange or yellow at the tail, and black the remainder), very full. Legs — a brown- red cock saddle hackle, rolled on at the shoulder. Wings — water rail, black cock's tail, or the bronze feather of the dark brown turkey wing or tail ; (the feather is cut and tied on last — see the trout jiy wing in the plate of feathers^ It may be varied thus : red, yellow, or orange body, with the same hackle and wings ; the dark shiny feather in the turkey tail, with a white tip, is very useful.

THE GREAT CATERPILLAR OR HAIRY WORM.

Hook c. No. 5 or 6. Body — bright orange, gold colour silk, or mohair, ribbed with flat gold tinsel and peacock harl. Legs — two large red hackles, black at roots, rolled from the tail up full to the shoulder, varied with peacock harl, scarlet or yellow bodies ; a large size yellow fly, ribbed with gold tinsel, is also very good for Chub fishing in the evening ; the golden olive fly is an excellent killer at night, made with golden olive hackle, and body the same colour, gold tinsel, and land rail or jay wings. — Hook^^^ or No. 7. — (iS^^^ the pal- merjly^ in its process of makings in the plates of the catalogue of flies*)

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Considering it necessary to give my pupils some idea of the nature and production of most of these beautiful flies, that frequent and adorn the streams and fertile fields of our highly favoured country, that delights the eye and glads the heart of the si- lent angler, when ranging the meads in pursuit of his game, I have been in the habit of examining those delicate insects in their various tiilts, and not unacquainted with the cadis -worm from which they are produced ; diving into these things, like a soli- tary crow on a mountain (as Paddy says, " boxing the inside out of a potatoe"), or a heron on the shores of a lonely lake, have I traversed the streams from my childhood, preferring this life to all the amusements this gay and delusive world could afford. From this, my pupils may form an idea of my practicability — and I sincerely wish them to give their strict adherence to the genuine instructions I have striven to impart. The following lines are selected from the works of an eminent naturalist, for the better information of my readers : —

" That there should be a tribe of flies, whose du- ration extends but to a day, seems at first surpris- ing ; but the wonder will increase, when we are told, that some, of this kind seem to be born to die

c 2

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in the space of a single hour. The reptile that is to become a fly, and that is granted so long a time, when compared to its latter duration, is an inhabi- tant of the water." (Ephemera) Oliver Goldsmith, The Cadis-worrriy or Cor-hait, — These worms, incased like the snail, creep and roll about the bottom of gravelly streams for a length of time, previous to their being metamorphosed into a fly. They are seen in an oblong sheath, curiously wrought, and incrustated on the outside with small gravel or shells, or in two semi-cylindrical pieces of hollow bark cemented together, having an orifice at each end ; they walk on six legs, some have less, ac- cording to their kind, with a sort of helmet on their heads ; these appear when seeking their food — and are drawn in at will when suddenly surprised. When I first observed these curious long rough substances in the gravel at the bottom, I could scarcely believe they contained a reptile ; but on a closer examination, breaking the case or sheath, I beheld, to my astonishment, a living creature, endowed with instinct (by the Great Author of nature), to form itself a covering, to secure it from the inroads of its enemies at the very bottom of the water, and obtaining its subsistence in the

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most obscure solitude. The following passage is also taken from Goldsmith's Animated Nature : —

" The gnat proceeds from a little worm, which is usually found at the bottom of rivers. They make themselves lodgments of cement, which they fasten to some solid body at the very bottom of the water ; unless, by accident, they meet with a piece of chalk, which, being of a soft and pliant nature, gives them an opportunity of sinking a retreat for themselves, where nothing but the claws of a cray-fish can possibly molest them. The gnat, in her second state, is, properly speaking, in the form of a nymph, which is an introduction or entrance into a new life. In the first place, she divests herself of her second skin ; in the next, she resigns her eyes, her antennae (horns or feelers), and her tail ; in short, she actually seems to expire. However, from the spoils of ^he amphibious animal, a Httle winged insect cuts the air, whose every part is active to the last degree, and whose whole struc- ture is the just object of our admiration/'

The cadis-worm is a most excellent bait, when placed upon the fly-hook, and thrown gently with the wind into the rippled stream, or dropped un- derneath bushes or shrubbery, that grow on the

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banks of deep pools, where you cannot possibly

convey the fly; and when the river is clearing

oflP after a fresh, during the summer season.

** Full nature swarms with one wondrous mass

Of animals, or atoms organized,

Waiting the vital breath, when parent heaven

Shall bid his spirit blow. The hoary fen.

In putrid streams, emits the living cloud

Of pestilence. Through subterranean cells,

Where scorching sun-beams scarce can find a way.

Earth animated heaves. The flowery leaf

Wants not its soft inhabitants. Secure

Within its winding citadel, the stone

Holds multitudes. But chief, the forest boughs

That dance unnumbered to the playful breeze,

The downy orchard, and the melting pulp

Of mellow fruit, the nameless nations feed

Of evanescent insects ! where the pool

Stands mantled o'er with green, invisible.

Amid the floating verdure millions stray." — Thomson.

Appropriate Instructions for Twisting Gut, making Casting Lines, both single and treble, with necessary recipes for dying ^yellows, browns Sfc.

Should my pupils run short of gut lines, on the river side, to avoid this vexatious dilemma, I thought it prudent to insert a few remarks on the knotting of these useful articles, as follows : — First provide yourself with a hundred or two of gut, sound and round, to suit both Trout and

79

Salmon fishing ; and a few days before you repair to the stream, steep it in lukewarm water to make it pliant. Take nine lengths of nearly equal sub- stance, and sort them, so as to have the line when finished taper (I prefer it all the one substance). To describe one knot, will suffice for all : — take two lengths and lay them together, so they project, or I may say extend, three inches past each extreme point, and with the fingers and thumbs (delicate long, and white), make a plain double knot over both, and draw them tightly together, cut off the refuse ends with your sharp pointed scissors, and repeat this knot till the line is complete. The same method may be adopted when making twisted gut casting lines, except tying down part of the refuse ends of the knots with wax silk, instead of cutting them close, (pare them down a little to make a neat finish, and fasten with two knots of the silk close behind each knot of the line) ; lay on a little varnish.

TO TWIST THE GUT.

My pupil having fixed the twisting machine ready for action, and sorted his gut in three lengths, equally strong (do not forget to steep it,) give a single knot at the end of each , to prevent

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it from drawing off the hook of the engine, when tying them on ; then apply a length to each of the three hooks, with a running knot. The three lengths now hanging attached to the . hooks, draw your hand down them to make them even from top to bottom, and here knot the whole together ; (forget not to cut off the flat end of the gut, pre- vious to commencing ;) then attach the hook of the lead weight; this keeps the gut from snarling; above this, place in the tap or small piece of wood, that keeps them divided; hold this in the left hand, and with the right take hold of the handle of the machine, twist or turn it towards you quickly, (this gives the gut the same twist as the reel line.) When you have given enough twist, let your left hand move gently up, towards (accord- ing as you see the gut retaining it beneath) the engine ; let your weight turn quickly, extricate the gut from the hooks, and draw the length through your hands to straighten it. These twisting ma- chines are to be had at the tackle shops.

RECIPE FOR YELLOW.

Boil two or three handful s of yellow wood one hour, in a quart of soft water ; wash the light

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mallard or hackles in soap and hot water, (see the bunch of hackles prepared Jb7^ dyeing, in the plate of feathers); boil these a short time, with a large spoonful of alum and tartar, in a little pipkin, with a pint of water, separately ; take them out of this, and immerse them into the yellow dye ; let them remain in an hour or two, slowly simmer- 'ing, (the shorter they remain in the paler) ; take them out, and wash them in hard water, or stale urine.

When you cannot easily procure thrush's wings, boil the jay or starling wings in the above dye, and you will have the desired colour. They must remain in but a very short time after it begins to boil.

Ermine fur dyed in the same, will be found veiy useful.

Red hackles, boiled in the same liquor, is an excellent colour for brown and amber flies.

When my pupils cannot procure blue paste in the countrj^, let them steep the indigo in soft water, for twenty- four hours, and it will be brought to a working state.

When there is an occasion for dyeing yellow- greens, either hackles or mohair, if you add a very

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small quantity of blue to your yellow liquor, you may obtain any shade by augmenting or diminish- ing the blue ingredient.

You may strike three or four shades on one hackle, by the following method : — roll some thread tightly round a bunch of white hackles, and leave two-eighths of an inch vacant at the points (tie the roots to a piece of clean wood), dip these in yellow first, take them out, tie the dyed part closely all over with some more thread, strip off a little more of the first tying, and dip this in like manner in red or blue dye, according to taste ; repeat this throughout the whole, and you will surely succeed. It is requisite to have three or four pipkins on the fire, containing different dyes.

ANOTHER RECIPE FOR YELLOW.

Take two or three table spoonfuls of turmeric, and boil it in three half pints of soft water, five minutes ; take it off, and let it cool a little ; take one spoonful of cold water, and drop ten drops of oil of vitriol into it, put this in your dye and stir it ; put the pipkin again on the fire, with your feathers or stuff, well cleansed in soap and water, (or observe the instructions, page 44), let it simmer slowly for

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one hour, or less, according* as you please, then take them out, and immediately immerse them in cold water ; if this is not adhered to, your stuff will be uneven in colour. If you add a little fustic to the foregoing recipe, boiled together with the tartar and alum, you may have a decided colour for the cowdung fly. Boil black hackles in the yellow liquor, and they will turn out an excellent tawney colour, particularly essential for salmon flies, fished with in small streams.

Boil three or four handfuls of logwood in three pints of water, until it becomes one ; drain this off into a clean vessel, cast away the wood, and put the pint of liquor into the crucible with your red hackles, and simmer them one hour or more ; this produces a most killing colour for salmon. Red wood, and also Brazil wood, boiled in the same way, with a little tartar and alum, is excellent. You may use the oil of vitriol with the last-mentioned ingredient, in equal parts of water.

Boil walnut rinds with a little fustic, in the above, and you will have a beautiful brown, any shade. (Do not neglect the receipts for dyeing, page 44.)

There is scarcely any substance on the face of

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nature that cannot be converted into something serviceable for the angler's craft. He may extract the colour from every flower that grows, from wood and bark, shrub and leaf, root and sedge, herbs, &c., and strike it on his light materials by aid of the never-failing oil of vitriol. The plu- mage of both foreign and domestic birds — the production of, or the silk worm itself — animals' furs of every denomination — and even the precious metals, when finely drawn, can be artificially wrought to entice the finny tribe.

The various fishing tackle shops of this great metropolis can readily supply my pupils now-a- days, with rods, lines, reels, gut, hooks, silks, pliers, &c. ; it is, therefore, useless to comment upon these articles, as it only occupies the room of more useful matter, and encumber these pages that are solely allotted to the propounding an art, which has been so long dormant, and is so essen- tially useful to the true admirers of rural recreation ; to give something that will convey a permanent and correct idea of fly -making and dyeing of colours,* is what I aim at principally, and desire

* The mohair, pig hair, dyed hackles, &c. is what I technically term colours.

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mypupils should understand ; foF when they are inhaling the fresh breezes on the river's brink, observing with delight the varied tints and delicate forms of the winged insects skimming the surface, and the sportive trout, pitching over and over, taking them down, this is the time, perhaps, when far from the din of a busy town, they will thank me for my trouble in directing their attention to the proper shades. I can vouch, by long experi- ence, that in days when the natural flies are most numerous, the trout will not take the feathered hook so freely, but on the contrary, when these in- sects are rarely to be seen, if the angler can find out the exact colour that is then prevailing, and imitate it (as near as possible), his success will be considerably augmented. In days when the fish is not in the humour of taking at all, a neatly tied fly near the tint, and somewhat gaudy, will un- questionably entice them to take — and I am sure, will decidedly be more advantageous than fishing at random. Some men in bonny Scotland will argue, that a red and black cock hackle, tied on the bare waxed silk, with woodcock or starling wings and hare's lug, will do wonders in ony bourn in Europe.

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When my pupils commence to make their flies, I wish them particularly to observe the following few hints on the subject. — fSee the instructions ^ page 5.) When you hold the hook by the bend, whilst tying the wings on the point of the shank, keep your finger and thumb nails in contact with eich other tightly, to keep them firm and from turning round; when you <;urn the hook in the left, holding it by the shank opposite the barbs whilst tying on the tail, tinsel, and hackle, use the third finger of the same hand to keep the silk from coming off at each roll, as too many turns or knots here would cause a clumsiness ; and when tying on the tag of silk catch the erid under your thumb nail, wrap it over and over to avoid knotting, tie on the tinsel, hackle, and body, in like manner ; when you tie on the wings, press them tightly down with the thumb nail of the right, every turn of the silk, and apply a little varnish in like manner — this will harden the head, so that it never will give way, when constantly immersed in the water. In all the process, observe to use the nails, not the fleshy part of your fingers and thumbs, when hold- ing the hook, and use the materials sparingly.

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THE SALMON,

" Monarch of the tide," is considered by epicures the most delicious and highly-flavoured of our fresh water (I may add salt, as he inhabits both) fish, and is also a considerable commodity in the great London market, conveyed thither by strength of steam from all parts of the kingdom.

The angler, when repairing to the stream he fre- quents, is delighted beyond expression, with the fond hope of enjoying the sport this noble creature affords. When hooked on the well-dissembled fly, he at first makes off at a furious pace, up or down the river ; he then begins to plunge and leap with amazing strength and agility; when he finds he cannot extricate himself, he falls to the bottom, and will remain there for hours, if the angler is not on the alert to keep him running ; tug and bend the rod well, give him the butt until he is completely exhausted, take him out of the current into deep water, if possible, and he will soon turn up his sil- very side to the sun, when you may lead him with a straw. Sometimes, when he is in tbiS- fatigued state, he will probably make a furious rush into the middle, when least expected, and very fre-

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quently breaks either the rod or line. (To keep the line tight, at all times, is of the first import- ance.)

This splendid fish haunts the deepest, stony, and most rapid streams, and is rarely to be seen in sullen muddy rivers, or where there is much steam- boat traflSc. I have seen them, when stand- ing on a rock overhanging the water, in a shoal at the bottom, close to the main current, ready for a spring or dart up the leap, and when they have arrived on the top of a precipice, I have hooked and run them down over large rocks to the pool beneath, and when about to land them, found them quite dead by their rapid descent ; I have also hooked them at the foot of gravelly pools, behind large stones in the centre, and under shelving rocky brows in deep water.

There has been a great deal of comment written on the production of the finny monarch by many, calling the mottled par their fry, and leaving the beautiful Salmon in miniature, at the mercy of the waves, to be thought the produce of the White Trout, or some other species of fish unknown. I will here briefly remark, that when fishing in mountain streams, where the Salmon could not

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possibly run, 1 have taken the par, although I am aware these noble fish will make their way up ex- ceedingly shallow brooks from the sea in spawning time, nevertheless, in these I have not seen the symmetrically-formed Salmon-fry — their shape and colour is precisely in accordance with the female fish ; but it is not so with the par, for neither their colour nor shape correspond with the Salmon in the least degree.

What will my pupils say to the accounts given upon this subject, when I tell them I have taken the mottled par throughout the fly-fishing season, and these beautiful silver balls periodically, at the end of April, or beginning of May, when the Sal- mon had disappeared, and the gilse or grauls of the previous season returning to their native fords. When the large fish begin to run up their respec- tive rivers from the sea in autumn to spawn, they make holes in the gravel with their heads, and when they have deposited their spawn therein, they will immediately set to work and cover it with their tails on every side ; and for some weeks guard it incessantly from the ravages of the large Trout, that may be seen at a few paces distant, ready for a charge upon the hillock of gravel, to

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root up and destroy its rich contents. The poor wearied Salmon by this time is so exhausted with labour and anxiety protecting their propagation, and to see it come to some perfection, before they desist, are more like the Cod-fish than their own species ; at last, when their toil is over, and the work completed, they may be seen pairing off to their native element, almost dead — sickly and disordered by their long stay in the fresh water — where they soon recruit their health, and become vigorous as at the onset. On their pursuit to the sea, they will rise greedily at the gaudy Irish fly, but I call this taking an advantage of the poor and needy, and by no means sportsman-like. — (See the jointed Salmon-fly <) plate 8. J

Description of one hundred Salmon Flies, to suit the principal Rivers in Great Britain and Ireland ; continued from page 42.

I have borrowed the following passage from Oliver Goldsmith's «^ Animated Nature,'' as an in- troduction to these artificial specimens, and to convince my readers of the existence of such like insects.

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" THE DRAGON FLY."

" Of all the flies which adorn or diversify the face of nature, these are the most beautiful ; they are of all colours, green, blue, crimson, scarlet, white, some unite a variety of the most vivid tints, and exhibit in one animal more different shades than are to be found in the rainbow." (These flies are produced from the cadis-worm.)

THE SHANNON FLIES, (Continued.)

1 . Body — yellow at the tail, then blue, then orange, then purple at the shoulder. Legs — purple and jay hackles, struck on from the centre up. Wings — two toppings, extending a quarter of an inch over the bend of the hook, sprigged each side with two or three fibres of the following feathers, peacock wang, mallard, golden pheasant tail and neck, a fibre of blue and yellow macaw each side with a king-fisher in like manner. Tail — golden pheasant crest, long feather, ribbed with gold tinsel. — Hook No. 7, Limerick.

2. Body — tag of black ostrich, and floss silk at

the tail, then a little orange mohair or pighair, then

purple to the shoulder, (you may roll on a little

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gold colour pig hair here,) ribbed with flat gold and silver twist. Legs— dark purple hackle, up from the tail, and orange at the shoulder, with a blue jay feather over the head. Wings — two golden phea- sant neck feathers, with mallard, spotted turkey, teal, guinea hen, and a fibre of macaw on each side. Tail — golden pheasant crest, large feather. — Hook No. 7, Limerick.

3. Body — half orange, half purple, ribbed with gold twist, and flat silver. Legs — orange and wine- purple hackles, jay at the head. Wings — mallard, and golden pheasant mixed, two fibres of the pea- cock sword feather, two orange hackles, guinea hen, teal, argus pheasant tail and wings, yellow green parrot tail, bustard, blue king-fisher each side, black ostrich head, two fibres of blue and yellow macaw. Tail — golden pheasant topping. — Hook No. 8, Limerick,

4. Body — orange pig hair, gold tip, and ribbed with flat tinsel, (all these should be taper, full to the shoulder). Legs — orange hackle from the tail up, dark blue at the shoulder, jay round the head. Wings — golden pheasant neck, tail, and crest, pea- cock wing, teal, and guinea hen, bustard, and light spotted turkey, blue macaw fibres each side, with

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king- fisher feathers, black head. Tail — golden pheasant crest. — Hook No. 9, Limerick.

5. Body — orange silk, tag of ostrich and puce silk, ribbed with broad gold tinsel (taper). Legs — large brown red hackle from the tail up, dark claret, and jay hackle round the trottle. Wings — golden pheasant crest, neck, and tail feathers mixed, argus pheasant, yellow green parrot, teal, and guinea hen, macaw feelers each side, with blue king- fisher. Tail — guinea hen, teal, yellow macaw body feather, green parrot, and ibis, two fibres of each. — Hook No. 8 or 9, Limerick,

6. Body — sky blue and yellow floss silk, half and half (the yellow near the tail), tag of ostrich and puce silk, ribbed with flat gold and silver twist. Legs — yellow hackle struck from the tail to the centre of the body, over the yellow, and sky blue hackle on the remainder of the shoulder, with blue jay feather round the head. Wings — two golden pheasant toppings, tw^o neck feathers of the same, \vith two pieces of argus pheasant one-eighth of an inch wide, (one piece on each side of the golden pheasant feathers, tied on, as the Scotch fly, whole) two fibres of macaw, and king-fisher feathers, green parrot, a^ little mallard, peacock sword and wing

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feathers, bustard, teal, and guinea hen. Tail— two golden pheasant feathers, and at the roots a blue king-fisher, with two fibres of blue and yellow macaw, projecting a quarter of an inch beneath. — Hook No. 8 or 9, Limerick.

7. Body — bronze brown floss silk, taper, tag of orange silk, and black ostrich, ribbed with flat and round gold. Legs — fiery brown or amber hackle (red cock hackles, dyed in walnut rinds and a little yellow ingredient, mixed, produces this colour), struck from the tail up, sky blue hackle, and jay at the head or shoulder. Wings — golden pheasant neck feathers broken, mallard, spotted turkey, peacock sword and wing, bustard, teal, guinea hen, yellow macaw body feather broken, green parrot, blue king-fisher, macaw feelers each side, and one topping, fair in the centre, on the top, extending a quarter of an inch longer than the others. Tail — golden pheasant topping, long. Black head. — Hook No. 8 or 9, Limerick.

8. Body — black pig hair, ribbed with flat and round silver, taper, gold tip, and orange tag. Legs — large black cock saddle hackle, struck from the centre of the body, an orange hackle, and guinea hen feather at the trottle. Wings— golden phea-

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sant tail, both shades, neck and crest, argus pheasant, both shades, yellow macaw body feather broken, green parrot, sword, and wing feathers of the peacock, king-fisher, and macaw feelers. Black head. Tail — golden pheasant crest, with two fibres of macaw, two of ibis, and at the roots of all a blue king-fisher feather. Hook^ No, 6 or 7, Limerick*

9. Body — piece of floss silk, tip of gold, and orange or gold colour tag of silk, black ostrich, ribbed with flat gold, and double silver twist. Legs — wine purple, or puce hackle, from the tail to the shoulder, a claret and orange rolled round the trottle, jay over the head. Wings — dyed mallard, light spotted turkey tail, bustard, teal, and guinea hen, golden pheasant tail, neck, and crest feather, peacock wing and sword feathers, mixed with green and yellow macaw body feathers, feelers of blue and yellow macaw tail feather, king-fisher, the splendid trojan, and cock of the rock. Tail — golden pheasant neck feather broken, and tied on with a topping ; black ostrich harl head. Hook No. 6 or 7, (these may be varied from 5 i up to No, 5, Limerick.^

10. Body — scarlet pig hair, tipped with gold

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and orange tag, ribbed with flat and round gold, sky-blue pig hair at the shoulder. Legs — deep scarlet hackle from the ostrich tag to the shoulder, sky-blue and jay rolled over the head (the blue hackle first). Wings — two golden pheasant toppings, two cock of the rock feathers (these are tied on in the centre), two short golden pheasant neck feathers, one each side, with a piece of bustard, in like manner, peacock sword and wing feathers, green parrot, teal, and guinea hen, blue and yellow macaw feelers, blue king-fisher. Head — black ostrich harl (you may vary the heads with blue, yellow, scarlet, green of difi*erent shades, claret, and puce ostrich feathers dyed, or pig hair). Tail — two toppings of equal lengths. — Ho oh from b J, to No, 5, large size, Limerick.

1 1 . Body — orange tag, gold tip, ostrich harl, rib- bed with flat silver and gold twist ; above the ostrich, puce silk, then red, then puce, then red again, then claret, then black pig hair. Legs — a dark blue and claret hackle, struck on both together, from the centre up, jay at the trottle. Wings — dyed mallard, golden pheasant neck and tail feather, broken, yellow macaw body, and root of the wing feather, mallard, peacock tail and wing, argus

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pheasant, both shades, ibis, teal, and guinea hen rump feather, mixed. Head — either green, orange, or scarlet. Tail— two golden pheasant toppings, short. — Hook from, h b, to No. 6, Limeinck.

12, and last of the Shannon Flies. I term this a spirit or nymph fly, in consequence of its deli- cately formed jointed body, of various tints ; it is an exquisite variety, and when the Mahuig, Killig, or Spent Salmon, are running down the rivers to the sea, they will take it in preference to any other. Body — four joints, a tag of black ostrich, or various shades, and at each a small hackle, (begun from the tail) with blue or yellow silk, then red, orange, puce, or purple, morone, and at the shoul- der, gold colour, ribbed with gold and silver twist, or tinsel successively. — f See the Irish Joint-Jlt/, plate 8. J Legs — a large scarlet and blue hackle, rolled on together at the shoulder, after the jointed body is formed ; (you may place on various gaudy feathers, hackles, &c. at this place ; when you form the joints, make the body very thin.) Wings — two golden pheasant neck feathers, cock of the rock, or four toppings, sprigged each side with the following : scarlet macaw tail, the blue peacock sword and wing feathers, argus the two shades,

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green parrot tail, red ibis, bustard, mallard, dyed yellow, teal, and guinea hen, with king-fisher, and a very long topping, fair in the centre. Head — black, scarlet, green, or blue ostrich. Tail — two golden pheasant crest feathers, long. — Hook, No. 5 to 8, Limerick, When you com- mence making the body of this beautiful fly — first form a quarter of an inch from the tail up, as if you were making one fly ; and immediately above the ostrich tag, roll on a small dyed hackle, close, then form another piece, and so on to the shoulder ; let it appear gradually light from the tail up, ex- cept a gold colour occasionally at the shoulder, to throw up the shade of the hackles that are rolled over it. (You hold the hook by the shank when placing on part of the body and tag of ostrich, and turn it, holding by the bend, when rolling on the tinsel and hackle — do not forget to use the nails.)

SALMON FLIES FOR THE RIVER TWEED.

1. Body — first yellow, then orange, then red, blue, scarlet, and black pig hair, ribbed with double gold twist, tipped. Legs — dark claret or black cock hackle, rolled from the tail up, orange pig hair, and

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the same coloured hackle at the shoulder. Wings — the black and white feathers found under the snipe wing, one each side ; or you may use the brown mallard, glede, black and white turkey tail and wings. Tail — tuft of orange, red, or yellow mohair, (one of each would be very useful), head only the tying. — Hook^ large, No, 7 or S, Lime' rick. The Carlisle and Kendal hooks are also good.

2. Body — gold colour pig hair next the tail, and black to the shoulder, ribbed with silver tinsel, a little orange at the head. Legs — a large saddle, (these are the strongest feathers) cock hackle from the yellow up, (pick out the orange through the hackle at the trottle). Wings — black and white spotted turkey tail, or a dark bronze feather of the same, with white tip (see the turkey and mallard wings prepared in the plate of feathers.) Tail — oiange tuft of mohair, short and full ; a golden pheasant crest is equally good. — Hooky No. 8, Limerick,

3. Body — orange near the tail, then sky blue to the shoulder, ribbed with flat silver, and round gold, yellow pig hair at the trottle. Legs — sky blue hackle rolled on from the yellow up, jay at

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the head. Wings — golden pheasant tail, crest and neck feathers, mixed with peacock wing, teal, gui- nea hen, bustard, cock of the rock, a little mallard, yellow macaw, and yellow green parrot tail, yellow and blue macaw feelers each side. Black head. Tail — two small toppings with a king-fisher fea- ther tied on at the roots.

4. Body — yellow green floss silk, or mohair, blue tag, ribbed with flat tinsel and round twist. Legs — yellow green, or golden plover hackles from the centre up, blue jay at the trottle. Wings — two toppings, two feathers of the cock of the rock tail or rump, mixed with argus pheasant, both shades, (there are three or four different kinds of colour in this beautiful bird, a native of Austra- lasia,) yellow green parrot tail, red ibis, blue and yellow macaw, the orange macaw back feathers, blue king-fisher each side. Black head. Tail — two long golden pheasant toppings with a king- fisher at the roots. — Hook, from No, 7 to 9, Limerick.

5. Body — orange pig hair towards the tail, then blue, then scarlet, ribbed with gold twist. Legs — scarlet hackle from the blue up, a claret and jay hackle at the trottle. Wings — two short golden

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pheasant neck feathers, mixed with argus pheasant, peacock tail and wing, bustard, teal, guinea hen, yellow macaw, silver pheasant, golden pheasant tail, yellow green parrot tail, blue king-fisher, and a long golden topping in the centre, on the top. Black head. Tail — a golden pheasant crest, or a cock of the rock tail feather, drawn up short.— Hoohy No, 6 to 9, Limerick,

6. Body — gold tip tag of puce, orange, then blue, then yellow silk, then claret pig hair, and black at the shoulder, ribbed with gold and silver twist. Legs — a large dyed black cock hackle, struck on from the claret pig hair up, blue jay at trottle. Wings — golden pheasant neck and tail feathers, brown turkey tail, teal, guinea hen, brown mallard, macaw feeler, and blue king-fisher each side, a golden pheasant topping in the centre, or cock of the rock feather, broken, with yellow- green parrot tail, bustard, and peacock wing. Black head. Tail — golden pheasant crest, or cock of the rock. — Hooh^ No, 6 to 9, Limerick,

1 , Body — orange floss silk, from the tail up, fiery brown pig hair, or mohair, at the shoulder, ribbed with flat and double gold twist. Legs — fiery brown, or amber hackle, black at the roots, blue jay at the head. Wings — mixed, and broken,

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golden pheasant tail, neck, and back feathers? mallard, teal, and guinea hen, silver pheasant, sword feather of the peacock tail, yellow-green parrot, macaw feeler, and blue king -fisher each side. Black head. Tail — golden pheasant topping, and king- fisher at the roots (all these wings should be very full). — Hook, No. 8 or 9, Limerick.

8. Body— yellow pig hair, from the tail to the centre, over this, gold twist, and yellow hackle, very dark blue to the shoulder, with broad silver tinsel. Legs — dark blue hackle, from the yellow up, with guinea hen or yellow macaw body feather round the trottle. Wings — brown mallard, or northern glede tail, ( See plate 4J. Tail — golden pheasant crest, or yellow macaw. — Hook, No, 8 or 9, Limerick.

9. An evening fly. Body — gold colour mohair, or pig hair, ribbed with gold tinsel. Legs — bright gold colour hackle, from the tail up, made full at the trottle, with two yellow macaw feathers. Wings —four topping, and the same quantity of neck feathers of the golden pheasant, the latter inside, feeler of blue and yellow macaw, king- fisher feathers each side. Black head. Tail — two toppings of the golden pheasant, or two or three dyed hackles

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of the same hue. — Hook^ from No, 7 to 9, Limerick.

10. A morning fly. Body — bronze colour peacock tail feather, rolled from the tail up, taper, ribbed with flat gold, yellow tag at tail and shoulder. Legs — black cock hackle, struck from the centre up, with two rolls of a small spotted guinea hen back feather. Wings — sword feather of the pea- cock tail, with a topping in the centre (two toppings would suit better). Head — bronze harl. Tail — a small topping, and blue king-fisher at the root. — Hook by h b, or No, 9, Limerick.

11. Body — half yellow and sky blue floss silk (the blue next the head), ribbed with round gold and flat silver. Legs — a, small spotted guinea hen struck on_^ at the centre of the body up, with a partridge rump feather, and blue jay rolled on at the trottle. Wings — golden pheasant tail, neck, body, crest, peacock wing and tail, bustard, cock of the rock, green parrot, macaw, trojan, silver pheasant, argus pheasant, with king-fisher each side (two fibres of each) teal. Head — ^black ostrich. Tail— two toppings of the golden pheasant.— Hook No. 8, 9, and b 6, Limerick.

12. Body — black pig hair, orange tag, ribbed with

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gold and silver twist, red at the shoulder. Legs — large black cock hackle, from the tail up, red feather of the golden pheasant round the trottle. Wings — ^mallard, widgeon, or brown turkey tail feather, varied with argus pheasant, black and white spotted turkey, silver pheasant, or large size teal feathers, mixed sometimes with guinea hen, red head. Tail — a topping or tuft of orange mohair. — Hooh No. 8 and 9, (you may make them on any size hook). 13. Body — yellow floss silk, blue towards the shoulder, ribbed with gold and silver twist, (I prefer flat gold and silver when the weather is coarse in dark days). Legs — blue jay, from the yellow up, yellow macaw body feather round the trottle, outside this a grey partridge rump feather, and then a golden plover back feather. Wings — two toppings, or cock of the rock tail, the golden pheasant neck, tail, and body feathers, broken, with two fibres of the following, each side, bustard, mallard, guinea hen, teal, peacock tail, silver pheasant, and the lightest feather of the argus pheasant, green parrot, and macaw, (you may give all flies feelers of the blue and yellow macaw tail ; when I mention macaw with out the blue, it is the body feather). Black head. Tail — golden pheasant crest. — Hook No. 7, 8, or ^^ Limerick.

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There is also a fiery brown and claret fly, made with full gaudy wings, excellent in the Tweed.

SALMON FLIES, FOR THE RIVER ERENE, BALLYSHANNON.

1 . Body — yellow or gold colour floss silk, taper, and ribbed with gold tinsel, blue tag at the tail, ostrich tag. Legs — bright yellow hackle from the tail up, with a little yellow mohair at the shoulder, and blue jay feather. Wings — two neck feathers of the golden pheasant and king-fisher, mixed with the following : — yellow macaw, ibis, bustard, argus pheasant, peacock sword and wing feather, teal, guinea hen, yellow green parrot tail, crest. Head — black. — Hook, No, 9, or b b, Limerick. (These hooks are Limerick shaped, manufactured in Dublin),

2. Body — orange floss silk, ribbed with gold tinsel. Legs — orange hackle, from the tail up, jay at the trottle. Wings —two feathers of the cock of the rock, with a golden pheasant topping each side, macaw feelers, and king-fisher. Tail — golden pheasant crest. Black head. —Hook 9, bb, Limerick^ varied thus : — scarlet, light brown, or yellow-green floss silk bodies.

3. Body — lilac floss silk, ribbed with double

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gold twist. Legs — French partridge back or breast feather, struck on from the centre of the body up ; blue jay rolled on at the trottle. Wings — half a dozen fibres of golden pheasant neck, the same quantity of brown mallard, pheasant tail, argus pheasant, bustard, teal, guinea hen, trojan, with one or two golden pheasant crests tied on the top, and extending a quarter of an inch over the others, a king-fisher each side, with macaw tail feelers. Tail — red tipped topping. Head — a bronze pheasant harl. Hook No. 9, b b, Limerick.

4. Body — light dun fur, mixed with a little yellow mohair, ribbed with flat gold. Legs — a grizzle cock hackle (or yellow dun) and blue jay at the trottle. Wings— the following feathers, mixed : brown mallard, golden pheasant neck and tail, argus pheasant, bustard, red ibis, green parrot tail, with blue and yellow macaw feelers. Black head. Tail— topping (short). Hook bb, b, or ccy Limerick.

3. Body — gold colour pig hair, ribbed with double gold twist (taper). Legs — an amber hackle, blue jay at the trottle. Wings — two golden pheasant toppings, mixed with feathers off

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the neck and tail. Tail — topping. Black ostrich head. Hook, from No. 9 to c c, Limerick.

6. Scarlet body and hackle, ribbed with gold tinsel, and blue jay. Wings — as No. 5, mixed with a few fibres of peacock sword feather. Black head. Topping for tail. Hooks as above.

7. Body — half blue, half yellow, with a blue and yellow hackle, and yellow macaw body feather at the trottle. Wings — as above. Topping for tail.

8. Yellow body, and brown red hackle, black at the root, ribbed with gold tinsel. Wings — brown mallard, mixed, with golden pheasant neck feather broken. Tail — topping. Black head. — Hook bby by c c, Limerick.

9. Body — cinnamon or fiery brown mohair, hackle same colour, ribbed with gold tinsel. Mallard wing and black head. Tail — topping (small). Hook as No, 8.

10. Body — orange, red, and black mohair (light towards the tail), ribbed with gold tinsel; brown- red hackle, black at the roots. Wings — golden pheasant tail feather. Black head. Topping for tail. Hooks as No, 8.

11. Body — yellow floss silk, ribbed with gold

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tinsel. Legs — two partridge hackles (or rump feathers) struck from the centre up, blue jay at the trottle. Wings — mixed with teal, guinea hen, and golden pheasant neck feathers, with a fibre of sword feather. Tail — topping. — Hook b J, h, c c. 12. Body — bronze peacock tail (taper), ribbed with gold tinsel. Legs — brown, red saddle hackle, and yellow macaw body feather round the trottle. Wings— -two neck feathers of the golden pheasant, sprigged with mallard, and hen pheasant tail. Tail— topping, or two dyed orange hackles. Black head. — Hook as above.

SALMON FLIES FOR THE RIVER BOYNE, DROGHEDA.

1. Body— claret pig hair (dark), ribbed with double gold (three turns). Legs — dark claret hackle, struck on the centre of the body up. Wings — brown mallard, varied with brown turkey tail. Tail — three or four fibres of mallard, gold tip. — Hook No.9y Limerick, (the Boyne flies will kill in the Lakes of Killarney).

2. Body — fiery brown pig or mohair, ribbed with gold tinsel, brown red hackle, two or three fibres of blue macaw for tail. Wings — brown mallard

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mixed with golden pheasant neck and tail. Head ' — black. — Hook h, b b, to No. 9, Limerick.

3. Body — half brown, half bronze peacock, ribbed with gold tinsel, brown red cock or black hackle, (a fly of each). Wings — mixed with brown mallard and hen pheasant tail. Tail — of the last mentioned feather. — Hook as above.

4. Body — half orange, half red, ribbed with gold (sparingly). Legs— blood red* hackle, black at the root. Wings — mixed with mallard and guinea hen, golden pheasant neck feathers, and a little peacock wing. Tail — toppings (small). Head — black. — Hook No, 9, Limerick.

5. Body — claret mixed with black, purple, and scarlet pig hair, ribbed with gold. Legs — claret hackle (very dark) at the shoulder, and the pig hair picked out on the body. Wings— light brown spot- ted turkey, mixed with mallard, and hen pheasant tail. Tail — small topping. Head — black. — Hook b 6, or No, 9, Limerick.

6 . Body — claret, scarlet, and blue pig hair mixed, ribbed with gold twist. Legs — two hackles, struck on together, (blue and claret). Wings — brown turkey tail, a little golden pheasant neck, and hen pheasant tail (full). — Hook No. 9, Limerick.

* Red hackle, dyed claret.

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7 . Body — green, blue, and orange mohair, mixed, ribbed with gold and silver. Legs — blue and orange hackle, rolled on together. Wings — hen pheasant tail, a little blue and yellow macaw. Tail — small topping. — Hook No.^^or bb, Limerick.

The following five flies are for Sea Trout or Salmon Pale,* — Hook small size^from c. to bb,

8. Body — claret silk, ribbed with gold tinsel, brown red hackle. Tail and wings — brown mallard. — Hook c,

9. Body — purple silk, gold tag, ribbed with silver tinsel, black hackle. Tail and wings — hen pheasant iaiil.— Hook c c.

10. Body — orange silk, ribbed with gold twist, brown red hackle, and grey partridge tail for wings and tail. — Hookfff or c.

11. Body — green silk, (the body may be varied with two or three shades) ribbed with gold tinsel, black cock hackle. Wings and tail — hen pheasant tail. — Hook c, or cc^ Limerick.

12. Body — scarlet floss silk, and a little purple mohair at the shoulder, ribbed with gold twist, scarlet hackle, blue jay, or purple at the trottle.

* Young Salmon, they are also called Gilse or Grals.

Ill

Wings and tail — spotted light brown turkey tail. Head — black. — Hook c c. (the small ant ^y^ page 20, is also a first-rate killer in this river for sea Trout, and the black palmer ribbed with silver and jay wings, page 28).

SALMON FLIES FOR THE RIVER NESS, INVERNESS.

1. Body — yellow tag of pig hair, black to the shoulder (here roll on a little yellow hair), ribbed with silver twist. Legs — black cock hackle. Wings — the white tipped feather of the jungle cock. Tail — a small topping. — Hook b h^ Limerick,

2. Body — orange and black mohair, ribbed with gold twist (the orange next the tail). Legs — black hackle and jay. Wings — two small neck and two long topping feathers of the golden pheasant (the neck feathers inside). Tail — topping. Black head. — Hook No, 9, or h b, Limerick.

3. Body — half yellow, near the tail, half purple, ribbed with gold twist (the twist withstands the fishes' teeth best). Legs — dark purple hackle, with a little orange or red pig hair at the trottle, and blue jay. Wings — guinea hen, golden pheasant neck, crest, and tail feathers, mixed with peacock's

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wing, yellow and blue macaw feelers (the king-fisher is not necessary for the flies of this river). Tail — topping.— ^-iToo^ No. 9, or b J, Limerick.

4. Body — yellow-green pig hair, ribbed with gold, orange silk tag, with another of peacock's green sword feather. Legs — ^black hackle, blue jay at the trottle. Wings — teal, a small quantity, guinea hen, golden pheasant topping, tail, and back feathers, mixed with green parrot bustard (or hen pheasant tail). Tail — topping. — Hook b b, Limerick.

5. Body-— half green silk, and half bronze pea- cock harl, ribbed with gold and silver twist. Legs — black hackle, orange at the head and blue jay. Wings — topping, and hen pheasant tail. Black head. Topping for tail. Hooks , b, b b,

6. Body — black mohair, ribbed with gold tinsel. Wings — brown mallard, and topping for tail. — Hooky b b.

7. Body — yellow -green mohair, red hackle, ribbed with gold ; topping for tail ; mallard, guinea hen, brown turkey, and golden pheasant neck, tail, and topping for wings. (The wings of all Ness flies should be made spare, two fibres of each is suffi- cient, except when there are toppings used).

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8. Yellow mohair at the tail, brown to the head, ribbed with flat gold. Legs —black cock hackle and jay. Wings — topping, guinea hen, hen phea- sant tail, the wood duck,* and argus pheasant. Tail — topping (short). — Hook^ J, b by Limerick. (It may be varied with a dark brown hackle.)

9. Body — gold colour tag of pig hair at the tail, purple to the shoulder, ribbed with silver twist, gold tag of hair at the shoulder. Legs — purple hackle and jay. Wings — silver pheasant, hen pheasant tail topping, and neck feather broken. Tail — topping (short). — ffook, as above.

10. Body— peacock harl (taper), gold tinsel. Legs — brown-red hackle and jay. Wings — two toppings, and a small neck feather of the golden pheasant in the centre. Tail — topping (small), varied with black hackle. — Hook, b, b b*

11. Body — red tag of mohair, then black, then a little red, then black again, ribbed with gold twist. Legs — black cock hackle (or heron feather). Wings— spotted turkey tail, or guinea hen rump feather. (Small topping, or a tuft of yellow mo- hair for tail.) — Hooky as above.

12. Body — yellow, yellow hackle, and gold

* A South American bii'd, tliu leathers are found on its sides beneath the wings.

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topping for tail, and toppings for wings. Black head. (This is an excellent fly in any river at night, or in dark days). — Hooky b h, or No. 9.

SALMON FLIES FOR THE RIVER SPEY.

1. Body — black mohair or floss, ribbed with silver ; brown red hackle ; and guinea hen feathers, mixed with hen pheasant tail for wings, a topping in wing and tail, (Varied with blue body teal wings, with a black hackle and body.) — Hook, J, or b 6, Limerick,

2. Body — bronze colour silk, ribbed with gold ostrich tag. Legs — brown-red hackle. Wings — red feathers of the golden pheasant, mixed with the following : guinea hen, teal, yellow macaw, red ibis, hen pheasant tail. Tail— topping. Black head. (Make the wings sparingly for all rapid streams). — Hooky b by Limerick.

3. Body — blue dun, mixed with orange mohair, ribbed with gold tinsel. Legs— grizzle hackle and blue jay at the trottle. Wings — two red pheasant feathers, sprigged with golden pheasant neck, tail, and crest, bustard or hen pheasant tail, guinea hen. Tail — topping. Black ostrich head. — Hook b by or No. 9.

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4. Body — claret silk ribbed with gold tinsel. Legs — black or claret hackle, blue jay. Wings — mallard, hen pheasant tail, and golden pheasant neck and tail feathers, mixed. Tail — topping. Head — peacock harl (green). — Hook h h^ Limerick,

3. Body — yellow mohair, and black cock hackle, ribbed with gold ; topping for tail. Wings — mal- lard, and guinea hen Head — green peacock harl, (or light brown mohair body ; black heron hackle ; wings, mallard and silver.) — Hook cc^ Limerick,

6. Body — yellow or gold colour mohair, ribbed with flat gold. Legs — red cock hackle. Wings — toucan, spotted turkey, neck of the golden pheasant, two or three toucan feathers, with feelers of macaw. Tail — toucan feathers. Black head. — Hook c, Limerick,

7. Body — yellow silk, yellow hackle, gold tin- sel. Wings — golden pheasant crest. Tail — small topping. Black head. — Hook cc,orb S, Limerick.

8. Body — yellow silk, ribbed with gold, guinea hen back feather for hackle. Wings — gaudy, mixed. Tail — topping. Head — green peacock harl (varied with a partridge rump feather). — Hook h h,

9. Body — blue and yellow mohair or floss silk

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(blue next the tail), ribbed with gold tinsel. Legs — blue hackle, small, and small yellow hackle or macaw feather round the trottle. Wings — a small quantity of each of the following: golden pheasant neck, back, and tail, macaw, pan-ot, and mallard. Tail — small topping. Head — green pea- cock tail. — Hook c, c c. Limerick,

10. Body — claret silk, ribbed with silver twist. Legs — dun heron hackle, and the same wing. Tail — two fibres of macaw. — Hook c c.

11. Body — brown floss silk, gold tinsel, and black heron or toucan black feather for legs. No tail. — Hook &, Limerick.

12. Body — dark green silk or mohair, silver tinsel, hackle dun heron feather (found on the neck, body, and wings). Wings — bittern feathers. (The plumage of the bittern is very useful for wing- ing and hackling Welsh flies.

The following fly I have introduced as a good killer, fished with by a poacher, residing on the banks of the rapid Spey.

Body — ^brown mohair, ribbed with three turns of gold twist. Legs — a brown feather of a cock's tail, or brown-red hackle. Wings — brown mal-

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lard, varied with claret and green body, bittern and teal wings (silver). — Hook No. 9, bb, Limerick.

A small yellow fly is also very useful when the river is high, made of toppings and yellow floss silk body ; hackle same colour, with gold tinsel.

THREE SALMON FLIES FOR THE FINDORN, ELGIN, NEAR THE SPEY.

1. Body — brown mohair, gold tinsel, and silver twist. Legs — brown feather (a large dark brown grouse or cock*s tail, motley brown). Wings — brown mallard. — Hook No, 8 or 9, Limerick,

2 Body — brown mohair, silver tinsel. Legs — motley brown feather. Wings — brown mallard.

3. Body —dark red-brown pig hair, silver tinsel. Legs — very black-red hackle, from tail to head. Wings — mallard, brown turkey tail, or salmon tail glede (varied with dark claret or dyed brown hackles). — Hook No. 8 or 9.

FOUR FLIES FOR THE RIVERS DEE AND DON, ABERDEEN.

1. Body — light blue mohair, black red hackle, and very small spotted turkey wings, a short yellow tail (a small topping). — Hook c c, Limerick.

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2. Body — blue mohair, silver twist, black hackle. Wings — teal, or black and white spotted turkey tail feather. — Hooky b.

3. Brown peacock harl, silver tinsel, black-red hackle ; teal, or mallard wing (one of each would be found useful). — Hook, cc, or b b.

4. Body — brown silk or mohair, mixed with a little blue, orange, and a slight tinge of green, ribbed with silver twist, brown-red hackle, black at root. Wings — dun heron, or light mallard, varied with teal and bittern wings. — Hook, b, (I would recommend the angler to have recourse to small gaudy flies on these rivers, when the water is high.)

FIVE SALMON FLIES FOR THE RIVERS BRORA AND SHIN, SUTHERLAND.

1. See the Salmon-fly described, at the sequel of route to the streams.

2 . Body — orange tag, and black all the way up, silver tinsel. Legs — black heron, or toucan feather. Wings — peacock wing. — Hook c c, b, or b b, Limerick,

3. Body — brown mohair, gold tinsel, black heron or toucan black feathers, peacock wing, or

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varied thus : — grouse hackle with the same body, and mallard wing (gold) ; it may also be made with a bittern wing. — Hooks as above.

4. Body — purple mohair, mixed with orange, and a tinge of green, silver tinsel. Legs — black or dark purple hackle. Wings— motley brown, turkey tail, (orange tag). — Hooks as above.

5. Body — light green mohair, silver tinsel, black hackle. Wings— peacock wing, or teal. Hooks as above. (The bodies of these flies, and all others fished with in mountain streams, should be very thin, and the wings light in comparison.)

The river Beaulie flies are very similar to the above five, and the two following, except a little more gaudy.

1. Body— yellow-green mohair, gold tinsel, small red hackle, and blue jay, with a little blue mohair under it picked out. Wings — motley-brown turkey, mixed with golden pheasant tail and neck ; guinea hen, teal, and macaw feelers ; black ostrich head. Hook No. 9, or BB. (A fly of each would be found useful.)

2. Body -gold colour tag, black to the shoul- der, gold tinsel, (three rolls.) Legs— black hackle; brown turkey tail, mallard, or golden pheasant

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tail (varied with brown and orange bodies, and mixed wings, toppings for tail.)

THREE SALMON FLIES FOR THE RIVER TAY,

PERTH.

1. Body — brown mohair, ribbed with gold, dark brown red hackle (saddle.) Wings - light brown, spotted turkey tail; red tag. (The body should be made thin and long.) Hooh^ 7 or 8,

2. Body — bronze peacock harl, gold tinsel, long and thin. Legs — brown red hackle (from the tail up.) Wings — brown mallard, or hen pheasant tail. Hook, No. 8 or 9.

3. Body — brown mohair, gold tinsel. Legs — a large grouse. Wings — mallard, brown turkey, or hen pheasant tail. (The angler should give the gaudy flies a trial in all these rivers, particularly near their disembougement.)

The Salmon-flies for the river Clyde should be made with black, brown, green, red, and peacock bodies ; wings of turkey tail, with a white tip, (with black and brown feathers) — gold twist.

The Salmon-flies for the rivers Doon and Stin- cher, are yellow or gold colour mohair at the tail, then orange, brown, and black, three parts up to

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the head (gold twist) — and wings of light brown turkey, with white tip, or glede tail (the Cape duck is also good.)

The Salmon-flies for Loch Lomond are very- similar, except yellow and light green mohair bo- dies ; red hackles. ( Hooks from No, 7 to 9, Limerick.)

The Awe-flies are also plain, varied thus ; — peacock bodies, gold tinsel ; grey mallard, guinea hen, teal, and spotted black and white turkey feathers — (tail — yellow tuft.)

THREE SALMON-FLIES FOR THE RIVER TYNE, NEWCASTLE.

Bodies — red, brown, green, mixed with orange and blue. Wings— mallard, argus pheasant, light brown and dark turkey tails, glede, and Cape duck, ribbed with gold ; yellow, red, and orange tails ; (and also a fly with a black body, teal wing, yel- low tail, black hackle, and silver tinsel, varied with brown body.) Hook large^ No. 6, 7, 8,

The Salmon-flies for Wales are, yellow bodies, yellow hackles, bittern wings, gold tinsel, or dun heron wings, bittern hackles, yellow or dirty lemon colour bodies ; — some with yellow dun bodies and hackles ; dyed mallard and bittern mixed for

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wings. Bodies made very full and taper. The Doon and Stincher flies are first-rate killers in the noble river Wye.

Two Salmon-flies for Norway, purchased at the author's, by Sir Hyde Parker, Bart, in 1841 ; and returned, as most killing patterns, the next season.

1. Body— deep gold colour pig hair, gold tin- sel, scarlet at the shoulder. Legs — a bright olive hackle, and a cream coloured spotted turkey tail, or peacock wing. (These hackles are superb for any river.)

2. Body — gold colour pig hair, gold tinsel, red hackle, and a tag of red mohair at the head. Wings — brown mallard, varied thus: — scarlet body, black hackle, mallard, or turkey tail (motley) ; yellow and orange bodies, with the same wings and hackles.

The Lake-flies for Ireland are, bright mohair bodies, such as orange, gold colour, yellow-green, red, olive, claret; golden olive, red, and yellow-green hackles. Wings — brown mallard, turkey brown, and mottled ; hen pheasant tail, with golden phea- sant ; gold twist.

The Scotch lake-flies are very similar, except grey wings of teal, turkey, liglrt4ind dark mallard.

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(Gaudy flies do remarkably well in the lakes of both countries.)

THE ENGLISH AND IRISH HOOKS COMPARED BY THEIR RESPECTIVE NUMBERS.

C — Lake size, Irish ; or, No. 6, English.

FFF, Irish, or No. 7 English; or. No. 8 English.

F, Irish ; or, No. 10, 9 English.

FE, Irish ; or, No. 12 EngUsh.

Midge Irish ; or, No. 13, 14 English.

The English Salmon hooks run large, from No. 1 , upwards. (See the Limerick, or Dublin hooks, described in page 43.)

W. Slackers easy method of making the Scotch Trout and Salmon jiieSy particularly recom- mended for the young beginners of the gentle craft.

TO MAKE THE SCOTCH TROUT FLY.

When you have the hook and gut firmly tied together, flatten the end of the gut a little, and lay on a little varnish over the tying ; you then strip off two pieces from the starling or bunting's wings (the pinion feathers) of equal length, lay them together even at the points, that you may have no occasion

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to nip them straight with your nails, as this gives them a blunt unnatural appearance ; — you then hold the hook by the bend in the left fore finger and thumb nails, and with the right lay on the wings at the extreme end of the shank, the reverse way ; take two turns of the silk over them, cut off the refuse ends with your scissors, and be- fore you form the body or strike on the hackle, turn them up in their proper place (the wings must appear the exact length of the hook when turned) ; divide them with the tying silk, draw it in and out between them ; fasten with a running knot behind them, next to the body ; then tie on a hackle, to suit the size of the fly, by the root close to the wings on its back ; strip off the flue, and with the right hand draw out a little mo- hair (you hold the hook now by the shank) and twist it round the silk sparingly ; roll it on from the tail to the shoulder, (you may begin the body opposite the barb on the shank of the hook) ; turn the hook in your hand and hold it by the bend ; take hold of the point of the hackle in your pliers, place your right fore finger in the hoop, and roll it from you over the shoulder, immediately under the wings ; then draw it right through them ; let

125

the pliers hang at the head, and take two turns of tlie silk over it, fasten on the extreme end of the shank, cut off both the silk and hackle points, and your fly is complete.

You may tie on floss silk, hare's ear fur, or pea- cock harl for body, in the same way as the fore- going mohair, beginning at the tail, and finishing at the head ; or at the shoulder, and finish at the tail ; tie on floss silk at the tail, and roll it taper evenly up, take a long hold of it to keep it clean. Tail, tip, or rib your fly, if requisite, after the wings are tied on and turned. ( See pages 6 and

10.; ^

TO MAKE THE SCOTCH SALMON FLY.

Tie on the Salmon hook to a length of twisted gut or loop (see the loops of the plates of flies on Salmon hooks, and plate 1) firmly, and lay on a little varnish — this prevents slipping ; then take two pieces of turkey tail feather of equal size (see the turkey tail and mallard wings prepared in the plate of feathers) and tie them on the exact length of the hook shank the reverse way, as you would the Trout-fly wings (see the wings tied on the reverse way, plate 7, on Salmon hooks), to

126

appear, when turned, in proportion;* turn the hook in the hand, and hold it by the bend ; tie on the tinsel, tail, and hackle (see the hackle cut at point in the plate of feathers) ; you again turn the hook in your hand, and hold it by the bend; lay on a little floss silk or pig hair, and roll it over to the shoulder, then the tinsel (three turns) ; fasten it at the same place, then take hold of the root end of the hackle in your right, and roll it slantingly over the body in like manner, close to the tinsel, (roll the hackle spare until you come to the shoulder, and here take two or three extra turns to give the fly a full appearance) ; take the fly now in your left, and draw the fibres of the hackle underneath your finger and thumb — this keeps them out of the way until the wings are turned ; you turn up the off-side wing first, and take a turn or two of the silk over it, then the near wing in like manner; take two turns over it, and guard the gut at the end of the shank, finishing with two running knots immediately under the head on the shank. (See Scotch fly, complete, plate 9 ; or, the wings of plate 4, tied on last.)

* It is best to cut the wings with a sharp penknife, the exact width, from oflf the stem of the turkey tail feather, to prevent the fibres from breaking, and hold them tightly between the nails when tying them on.

127

Note — the wings may be turned in their proper place before you make the body in this method, or you may form the body first, and then tie on the wings ; begin at the shoulder and finish at the tail, or at the tail and finish at the shoulder, and roll on the tinsel and hackle in like manner.

TO MAKE THE SPINNING MINNOW TACKLE.

You first tie three sets of c or No. 7 hooks together (three hooks in each set), in the form of a grappling iron, with waxed silk (or you may tie two hooks together first, the third when you have the two first tied on the gut), you then take a length of strong Salmon gut, single hair, and tie three of the hooks, that is to say, three of the hooks previously tied together, back to back, to the strongest end of the gut ; you then take other three, lay them on, let the bends come in con- tact with the extreme ends of the shanks of the first set, secure these, and tie on the third set in like manner, allowing the whole to be a finger length (you may leave a sufficient space between the hooks to receive any size live bait, and use No. 9 or 10 hook, for Trout fishing in rivers) ; you now tie a sliding hook on the gut, above the

128

third set, thus — lay on a second piece of gut to the length the hooks are attached to, on these lay the shank of the single hook, allow the bend to be in the same position with the others, then take a piece oT waxed silk and roll it tightly over the shank, and fasten it with two running knots in the centre ; now draw out the loose piece of gut, lay on a little varnish, let it dry, and your hook will slide to and fro freely on the gut. (Observe to use a little varnish w^hen securing all your hooks,) To bait the hooks, you take a minnow, or any other sort of fish, td suit your purpose ; fasten one of the end hooks in its tail, contract the tackle a little, to give it a gentle bend ; fasten one of the second set in its back, and one of the third behind the head or shoulder ; then place the sliding hook in its lip, to keep the bait steady. When using it in deep still water, draw off the line from the reel at the butt of your rod to the extent you are about to pitch the bait ; then take the rod in the left, the minnow in the right, and throw it sideways into the pool ; the line now flies through the rings with great velocity ; you then take the line in the right above the reel, draw it in as quick as possible towards the shore, and most probably, during its

129

passage through tlie water, you will succeed in hooking a large fish. You must take every pre- caution to let your line out when the fish is on, without snarling ; and keep the point of the rod to the sun, your left to the butt, your right to the reel, and both eyes to the manoeuvering your finny prize. (Observe the position the rod is in, held by the figure in the act of playing a fish ; plate, fly-fishing scene.) At the end of the length of gut, attach a small swivel ; at two lengths above this another ; and another to make the bait spin well.

The artificial minnow mentioned (see route to the streams) is a capital bait, when the water is the colour of whey after a fresh — fished with in rapid currents, where large Trout and Salmon haunt during the heat of the summer season.

GEO. NICHOLS, PRINTEB, EASL'S COUBT, LEICESTEE SQUARE,

130

Having endeavoured in this little treatise to instruct my readers, to the best of my ability, in the art of Fly Making, an art so essential to the success of those who aspire to become skilful fly-fishers, I will conclude with an earnest hope, that those who have sought for instruction in the perusal of these pages, may not consider my labour thrown away, but will rest assured, that the information I have striven to impart, is the result of many years' experience and practice. A Child of the Brook.

Note, — A simple method of making the Palmer — Roll on the hackle first, at the end of the shank, and instead of securing it at the extreme point, fasten it with a running knot underneath the feather, and draw it back towards the gut length out of the way ; begin the body at the tail, and finish it under the hackle, in like manner ; then draw the hackle in its proper place over the body. You may use any variety of hackle, or any coloured silk for body, in this way. Tie the hackle on by the root.

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